Henrik
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Posts posted by Henrik
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12 hours ago, al-yeti said:
Yes £350 expensive
But I never said goto the original installer
Lol flash away
Yes £350 is expensive and that’s the price range straight across the whole of Sweden. LOL? Flashing went all good and I now have an new engineer code and managed to mark zone 2 as empty.
now it’s just a small few things left to do, such as hook up the Ethernet, camera and set dial number.
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46 minutes ago, al-yeti said:
Forum rules mean I can't I am afraid , I signed up to it , so it's in the blood , the tsi clergy will send the Boyz round from hull , they don't fight fair either
Anyhow back to reality
Any reason you won't pay engineer small amount to do it for you?
£350 is no small amount just to give me the code they originally changed!
Just now, Henrik said:£350 is no small amount just to give me the code they originally changed!
But not to worry, got help already with flashing. Thanks anyway. Have a great weekend.
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12 hours ago, al-yeti said:
So if you move 1004 to 1002 does it clear 1002?
If so you know what to do , get another PIR
Or enter engineer mode (which your post was removed quite rightly earlier )
Default your codes which we can't help you with , but you weren't far off from getting it done , probably just read something wrong
Then set 1002 as spare
in regards to my post that's rightly was removed earlier I have followed it point by point but can't get it to work. You couldn't possibly point me in the right direktion on what I have misunderstood in the instructions. (pref in an PM). Would really appreciate if you could.
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1 minute ago, al-yeti said:
So if you move 1004 to 1002 does it clear 1002?
If so you know what to do , get another PIR
Or enter engineer mode (which your post was removed quite rightly earlier )
Default your codes which we can't help you with , but you weren't far off from getting it done , probably just read something wrong
Yeah, just realised that I did “the thing” on the RIO and not the main pcb. Gonna try the 0V and T- tomorrow.
it do clear/moves the fault when I move a PIR to 1002, so buying a new one would fix the problem yes. Or if I had the eng code I could just program it away since I really don’t need another one.
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Sorry mate, it’s brown black black brown brown 1k +/-1%
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The resistors are Brown.brown.black.black.brown
110 ohms +/- 1%
moved 1003 to 4 and 1004 to 3 and that cleared the problem on +SAB 1003.
still got the problem on 1002 that supposed to be a PIR but still sits on the wall in my old shop.
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Here is a pic how I wired PIR 1003 up.
Blue= Ground,
Orange= 12V
Brown= alarm
Green= tamper
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2 minutes ago, al-yeti said:
In your picture above zone 3 shows the wiring sheath isn't removed and can be a problem , did you correct that?
the picture above is the old wiring, and the film showing the new. Where would I place the resistor then to place it in the right place. :0)
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I will attach a short movie on what the display says and a pic on how it looked before I took the old cables away.
I put the 1k resistor between 1002 and 0V to the left of 1002.
On the film it says (in Swedish):
1003 +SAB.Open circuit IR store floor
1002 +SAB.Short circuit IR store office
Not beging an alarm technician guy I just guess that 1001 (that's a door magnet) would have 1=white and 0V=Blue and the 1002 that's an PIR would be connected with 2=purple 0V=green and blue and then the white to 12V on pin 7.
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3 hours ago, al-yeti said:
Classis is me lol
So enable in menu 48 , and then enter engineer code
But OP more than likely you don't have it so try the resistor and then you might be lucky if it's all user reset
Did put a 1K between 1002 and 0V but still getting the +SAB fault code on 1002 and did nothing, also got the same code on 1003 but I got all the cables in the right places gonna try a Wago clip just to see if its the cables that's not connected properly.
No one out there that could help me via PM on how to reset this system of mine?
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Am I doing this in the right order when trying to access the eng mode?
48 ent, 1 ent, 1 ent, 1 ent (eng code) ent?
When I do this nothing happens.
does it tell me I have entered the wrong eng code or not?
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Ok guys, got everything up and running just fine.
i do however have an slight issue.
when I took the alarm down I most have missed one PIR hanging on the wall (address 1002).
how do I go about entering the engineer code to be able to delete the address 1002?
And is the engineering code always the same or is it changeable by the company who first installed the system in my old shop?
thanks in advance,Henrik.
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48 minutes ago, Hillbilly said:
So the system was installed before?
Did you not read the posting???
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22 minutes ago, al-yeti said:
But we already told you where to start?
Are you basically saying you don't have a clue how to find the manual to atleast wire the keypad to the control panel
If you can't get that bit done , I would forget Bout this .....
Not at all, I’ll get it done.
thanks for all the good advices.
All I thought was since all you guys are obviously knowing what you doing with in low voltage security system you could give me some heads up in regards to the difference EOL resistors that’s already fitted to the system since it’s been installed ones before and I guessed the way of installing this system was pretty much the same all over the world since you all use the same numbers and markings.
Im not a alarm system installer but if this was something that i knew I would sort of recognise the setup from what I saw in the pictures, just saying.
But I’ll start all over again and figure it out.
Have a great weekend everyone and stay safe in this Corona times.
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But enough about my insurance.
is there anyone that could help me a bit with the wiring of this system?
if this was your system how would you hook it up (with all the marks on the equipment mentioned).
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1 hour ago, PeterJames said:
I would be double checking what your policy says if I were you, I think it highly unlikely that an insurance company would accept anything less than a system installed by an accredited company with at least dual-path grade 3 monitoring. I would expect that a goldsmith studio will hold theft attractive stock and property, and I would expect the value of the contents to be in the thousands not the hundreds. Does your policy mention Police response? Just trying to save you a whole lot of heartache
I have checked with the insurance company and as long as I can prove the system works and with video recording in the event of an break in it ok. I do not have to have police or security company response for the insurance. Absolutely true about the money, it’s well over 10s of thousand in storage.
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1 hour ago, Hillbilly said:
Oh it’s going to be a long install!
not necessary.
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2 hours ago, al-yeti said:
Leave coms til last , mount your panel and keypad , c078 , and the coms boards should already be mounted hopefully
Switch on and see what faults you get, work through one by one
You see that’s the problem, what should go through the C078 and what goes straight to the box? Should I have the keypad go in on 12V 0V A B on the right hand side? And what should I have going to OP2? I’ll post some pictures on how it look after I cut the cables. Maybe someone would be able to say what equipment been connected to what port.
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30 minutes ago, al-yeti said:
Insurance? So they don't mind you DIY installing not know what your doing ?
No, apparently not!
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10 hours ago, Amps said:
Put your hand in your pocket and purchase a Pyronix Enforcer wireless kit. Save you lots of hassle and well worth the ££.
Unfortunately I’m not aloud to have a wireless alarm system due to having a goldsmith studio in the basement. My insurance company demand a wired alarm system.
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Hello everyone.
I'm wondering if there is anyone that could point me in the right direction on how to wire my alarm system up.
I'll tell you what I have and what i want to re-install. (it will be a few things less than the original setup)
Long story short, i use to own a plumber shop and recently closed it down. However, i did manage to pay of the alarmsystem and took it with me.
I now wish to install this at home (250sqm house) but in the heat of moving out from the shop premises I never marked the cables up befor cutting them.
The things I have today (and had installed in the shop is:
1 x Main unit Honeywell FX100 C007-L-SD V3.19 (with the A081-00-SD GSM board and LAN module on the left hand side)
1 x Keypad CP051-30-01
1 x Rio C078
2 x Sirens B-503-0010 (marked 1021 & 1022)
2 x Smoke detectors Aritech DP721RT (marked 1017 & 1018)
5 x PIR Interlogix DDV1016AM (marked 1003, 1004, 1011, 1015 & 1016)
3 x Doorsensors/ magnets Alarmtech B-582-0013 (marked 1001, 1002 & 1004)
1 x Camera Axis M1145-L
1 x Axis companion switch 4CH, 5801-351-01
I could really need some help on wiring all these components in to the Rio and the main unit.
Should i have a CAT5 cable pulled all the way from the router down to the main unit to the LAN module for the camera or from the camera straight to the router, or one cable from the router to the switch and from the switch to the main unit?
What should go through the Rio and what should go straight to the main unit? And most important what cable goes where?
I have all the cables and will pull it all this weekend but it would be great to get some help with the wiring to get it started.
How do I change the phone number i the alarm system, that the alarm calls in an event?
Is there an app I can use to check the camera and admin the alarm remotely?
Would really appreciate any help towards getting my old/new alarm system up and running.
kind regards,
Henrik from Sweden.
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Many thank.
I'll try to do that.
Would i need to reprogram the main board or GSM board?
For the unit not to call the old phone number to Securitas and instad call my mobile phone alt not call any numbers at all and if so, what program should I use?
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Good evening.
I hope there is a kind soul out there that could help me with the installation of my system.
I just bought my system from the Swedish security company Securitas G4S, and moved it from my old shop to install it at home.
Sadly I only had 2h to take the system down and did not mark the cables up before taking it down...
I was wondering if there is anyone out there that could help me with the instructions of installing this system in my home or at least give my pointers as to where all the wires should go.
What I have is:
1x Main unit Honeywell SD8100 (looks just like your English Galaxy Flex 50),
1x keypad
1x Cam (Axis i this its called)
1x Rio C078
4x Door magnets,
6-7 PIR
1x smoke detector
2x alarm sirens/ bells (indoor)
If its helpful I could take som pics on how it looks today (with the EOL resistors and all)
All parts are marked up by Securitas with 4 digit numbers.
I really hope someone can help me with this.
Thanks in advance,
Henrik (from Sweden)
How do I get this to work?
in !!..DIY Installers..!!
Posted
Well it didn’t cost me anything to flash it since I did it myself (but with a lot of help from a very kind man, whom I would easily by a night in the pub if I still lived in the UK).
Sure it wasn’t the easiest thing to do but I mean hey, why not try...
Thank for all the help anyway.
Only wish that the members of this forum could be a bit more helpful towards the “DIY” alarm installers.
stay safe!