Cluel3ss

Hi, I have a Texecom Premier Elite with a Com2400 and a Speech Module. Lately when my phone rings, there is a modem tone that answers the phone, as far as I can tell it's probably the com2400 as there's nothing else apart from phones connected to the landline. How can I turn off the setting for the com2400 to answer incoming calls? The manual wasn't too clear on this. I have a USB cable to connect to the panel, but in this instance if it's fairly straightforward then I'd rather use the RKP. Thanks

Has that one been released? I thought it's the CEL-0002 that's been released? ...at least that's the one i've ordered. Speaking of which, are there any other differences between the two apart from Wifi?

The mains cover was a pain to put on (it was a tight squeeze), but it's now there. I've installed the battery clips, but not convinced they're that effective, as the battery can still move around.

Just a quick update... both PIR and internal sounder are working. The sounder is very loud and makes the room uncomfortable to hang around in. Thank you all especially al-yeti!

Thank you all, just a quick update... I ended up starting the panel normally as per the instructions i.e. battery first, then eventually turned on mains. No major issues, it appears to work. I just need to now explore the settings when connected to Wintex.

Thanks! I ended up having a power cut before I could give it a try.

Thanks for the replies. I went with the hand approach, and yes after about half way through it became easier! I'm almost done wiring it up, I'm now not going to set it up until next weekend. I have yet to connect the sounder. Would it be safe and non damaging to turn it on at the mains without the battery and sounder connected? I just want to turn it on to see if it all works, i'll then power it down and finish it next weekend.

So i'm finally getting round to wiring up the panel. I've noticed the photos in the gallery have the wiring in the panel twisted. My alarm cable is 8 core but is not twisted. I was just wondering how you all twist the cable? I can't imagine it's by hand, I was just going to attach the end of the pair to my cordless drill and just use that to twist the cable. Is that how others do it?

According to tex support i should be able to use the additional arc's. I just need to enable dial all numbers.

My panel is recently bought and came with v4.0 firmware pre-installed. Ahh maybe I won't hastily return the speech dialler, I wonder if anyone has tried it like that? No. If you have a speech dialler or speech and text dialler, you don't need a speech module. The speech module is a cheaper alternative if you already have the com2400, but it seems to have limitations compared to the diallers.

What's not immediatly obvious to me is how many people I can call with the speech module and com2400? I think each person I want to call would be setup as an ARC, but i'm not sure how many people I would be able to setup? Ideally i'd like to be able to call at least 4 different numbers. I have no interest in using the SMS feature of the com2400. On the com2400 installation manual it says up to 6 telephone numbers, does that mean I can call upto 6 people with the speech module?

Thanks i'll look at it properly hopefully this weekend.

Wish I read this before I bought the texecom speech dialler! I'm hoping I can return it and get this instead.

Doh! Thanks, that didn't even occur to me, and that's even after having one of those things for the internal sounder.

I'm currently in the process of wiring it up the sensors. In the panel there are a few accessories, one is the mains cover, the other I think are battery clips, but i'm not sure what the "toothpaste like" caps are for?

So i've wired it up, but now i'm not sure how to wire it up to the alarm panel. The wiring standard i've followed is the linked sound and flash as attached. On my panel i'm using EOL for the sensors so i'm not using the tamper circuit. I think i'm supposed to connect it to the bell block, so +ve to 12v and -ve to 0v, is that correct? Also do I wire the tamper wires to Tamp, and 0V?

Ok so admittedly I skimmed the manual, now its starting to make a bit more sense! Sensors go to zones, keypads to the network connections.

Yep, ordered and will put it next to PIR. I'll update with how i get on with it.

So i'm going to be doing FSL wiring, which I think is straightforward enough for the PIRs and magnetic contacts (they all come with built in resistors). But i'm not sure how I would implement it for the Texecom RKPs and Texecom telephone speech dialler? These don't appear to have any built in resisistors.

Ahh good point, hadn't thought about if it didn't have a battery then with a broken wire it won't work. Presumably that'll be the same if someone cuts the cable ...although the main alarm siren should go off. Hmm more food for thought. Unfortunately I can't use a speaker output as the pad i'm using there is the LCDP, the LCDLP will be used in the house.

Thanks, i'll look at alarm junction boxes. Wireless will be adding a noticeable additional expense which I'd prefer to avoid. If the sounder wire breaks, would the tamper not trigger?

Fine i'll do it the normal way, open the lid etc. I can't justify the cost of the comip at the moment, although I might give the raspberry pi method a try!

Lol, it's tempting. If i do add it, it'll be in the future. At the moment i'm not fussed about being able to use the mobile apps, and realistically I think i'll only use wintex once in a blue moon or if i'm servicing it.

Thanks guys, I think I will take the chance and use the network cable, I can always disconnect it in future if there are any issues, the cable isn't likely to move around. One thing I realised I haven't considered is, if the PSU in my alarm is sufficient, I guess this is an opportunity to try out Texecom's EN software! Another thing i've noticed is that the 2x 8 core alarm cables that I had initially wanted to use are about a metre short at the panel end, what would you recommend to extend the cables? I can solder, but what's the normal approach (rewiring isn't an option).

Good point, I don't know, but yeah i'll need to make sure it doesn't get damaged if pulled on. There is a network option, just don't really want to fork out another ~£50 Wifi, or ~£100 wired, just for that.