Keighley

thank you for all your replies. I think I am going to stick with the veritas system as I have had a look at the Scantronic panel and I am not that confident I am 70 now and as you get older you loose the ability to take things in (you will all come to it eventually) so thank you and I am going to order a veritas. I will come back when I have fit it to update. again thank you all and a merry Christmas and a happy new year

What are they? I don't know what you mean (English key pads) the one I have now only shows red light when programing? as I am only a DIYer I thought it would be best to one out one same back in as all the connection will be the same but if you have better idea please tell me looks like the transformer is ok then.? as I don't know about alarms, I have had two Veritas systems in properties I have owned that is why I can usually get by if anything goes wrong

programed it last night all went well, armed ok through the night but when I disarmed it this morning the mains went in the box and it started running on battery (all fuses are ok,) as we are away quite a bit I don't want to risk it going off so I am going to bite the bullet and buy a complete control box they are only £45 inc post and you get a key pad Does any body know if the transformer is included with the kit, I am nearly sure it is but not 100% sure?. it will drive me made and I wont be able to sleep if I don't find out what has gone wrong so I am going to find out before I fit the new panel so there is one question I would like to ask, what is the OUTPUT voltage of the transformer? at the present 240v in 20.5v out and any other comments on fault finding this fault will be welcome thank you

thank you ill try that in the morning

I have the engineers code I just want the engineers codes to reset it to disable the one key arm mode The main capacitor had blown the large one near the transformer I am not sure how old it is as it was in when I purchased the property I think it is from 2001?

there is only one green one at the top and in the centre

here is a photo of the key panel in the manual it says that it can be programed so it is a one button arm via the engineer code but it doesn't tell you how or how to disable it

there is no red led just the green one

disabling I want to put the user code in then arm

yes it does it all works now but it arms with just pressing full before it blew I had to put the user code in then arm

just replaced a blown caps on the main board of a veritas R8 alarm got everything working again the only thing that I cannot do is it is programed to accept to arm it with just pressing full or part and I would like to have to put the user code in then full or part I have looked but cannot find a answer I know I will get a answer here thank you in anticipation

Just messing about in the garage and decided what to do with the battery I'm going to turn it into a power pack to run some Christmas lights which I have wound round a 11mt fishing rod which is attached to the jockey wheel of my caravan then when I'm pissed coming out of the club I can find my way home instead of knocking on someone else's caravan trying to get in

Did the same to my fishing trolley battery still going strong 18 months on. but I will admit I have changed the alarm battery due to the risk ill make a torch out of it

yes you have to put small amounts in and just tap lightly the internal mat to get all the air out (use a cotton bud with the cotton removed and to put water in use a striped down pen, thumb over end then release water I was brought up in the era when you repaired everything

Ok, advice taken Thank you

ordered a Yuasa 7amp off amazon £15 in delivery Just finished fitting all new PIRs and programing so now got 8 door contacts and 5 PIRs, thank you all probably saved me a fortune by the way I removed the battery which was very hot opened it up and persevered and toped all the cells up, refit tops and glued now battery holding charge and staying cool so will prob have a spare battery when new one comes. another thing I did was drill a small hole in the side of the panel and extend the battery leads so I could monitor the battery with the panel lid back in place, so looks like everything is ok now (I will put the battery back inside when I'm satisfied all is 100% ) Thank you all for being assistance and may all your problems be small ones

Thank you MrHappy and sixwheeledbeast I will be ordering a battery tomorrow before I do any more to the alarm again thank you all Only 101 days to Christmas!!!

Thank you I guess that means get a new battery?? can I remove the battery and leave the alarm turned on and in use until I get a brand new shinny battery ?

Hi again sixwheeledbeast I am nearly sure it is not over loaded because there is only 6 door contacts and one PIR in the system? I would say the battery gets too hot because it is at the opposite end to the transformer and it did not cool much over night outside of the control box. will I have to remove the battery to test it and will the alarm hold its settings with the battery removed?? thank you.

You was 100 % right I was programing it the wrong way round all seems to work correct now just another 4 PIRs to go the only thing I have noticed is that the control box gets rather warm, I don't know if it was like this before I started on it, because it is in a cupboard and I have not felt at it before. I did leave the system in engineers mode over night and removed the panel front, then pulled the battery out as far as the wires would allow to see if it cooled over night but it was still quite warm the next day I.E. the battery and the panel, The Battery was replaced in 19/12/02 with a 7amp could you give me your thoughts on. this please. One other thing is there is a vocaliser still wired up to the alarm panel but not connected to any telephone line I will not be using this so could I just remove the wires that connect both units and then remove the vocaliser? again thank you for your assistance as I would have been scratching my head for days.

ill have a look tomorrow thank you good night

I want to full arm (all door contacts and all pir with zone 1 as exit door which is in the hall I want to part arm when I'm in and going to bed so all door contacts and all pirs except pir 2 zone which is the hall I have done some observing the panel lights when arming the following happens at the moment there are no pirs in the system only door contacts when arming now all I do is arm full because there is no pirs to cause an alarm (when I arm in full mode only light on is the unset light , the system bleeps then goes into arm and all lights go out ) if I arm it in part mode (still no pirs in system the wires are joined IE Green and White : Blue and Yellow : Red and Black wires are isolated from each other when armed in part all red lights flash and green unarmed light is on, it goes into arm mode and all lights go out and the system is armed (only door contacts) when I put a PIR in number 2 and omit 2 in part arm with engineers code (the hall wiring PIR is Red to 12v+ black to 12v- Blue + yellow to relay white + Green to tamper then part arm the alarm all red lights flash except 2 which is not lit, the unset light is on, then the system click away then all lights go out and the system is armed but when I do a walk test on number 2 PIR in the hall which should be exempt it triggers the alarm I hope you can make sense of this again thank you for your patience

tamper light is off is the end station closed - don't know what that means? do you mean the exit if so yes the exit is closed yes all ok but no PIRs fitted in the system just door contacts, the system with the PIR works perfect in full mode its I just cannot disarm the hall PIR in part so we can arm and go to bed. the system works as it should with no PIRs fitted but obviously I cannot use it in part arm mode?? would a wrong PIR cause this, they are standard ones with normally closed (they were cheep ones ) thank you for trying to help once armed all lights are off as they should?

yes that is what I thought so I shorted the tamper at the pir IE connected them together the number of bleeps are 16 bleeps followed by 10 longer bleeps could I jump the tamper in the control box to prove if that is the case?

yes the keypad is in the hall as well not far from the pir I have set the pir in the hall to entry/exit (engineer code - 2 -1 when setting part key(????) then (part) all goes well - all lights lit except 2 which is the hall pir, panel bleeps as usual then all light go out but when you do a walk test the alarm starts to arm first there is about 13 bleeps then another type of bleep which there are about 10 then the alarm goes off leaving number 2 lit as the trigger