arfur mo
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Posts posted by arfur mo
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afaik, when you first boot up main panel and keypad will auto update to which ever has the latest version, now you add an expander and again if that has later siftware then the previous kit is updated.
there is also the more traditional update route via download the profile and using UDL, i'm not sure if connected via network the update can be done over the internet directly, i see no real reason why not as long as it has to be instigated from the controls, much like my smart Tv
They will want the touchscreen if its cheap.
jiml re advantage over msx etc. It can be done remotly, I'm guessing you cant change an msx card that way.
£40 difference in trade cost, it!s aesthetics over the smaller keypad that usually wins over the wives, lets face it most times an alarm is viewed as just another 'boys toy' if not driven by insurance or previous intrusion experience's.
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The touch screen is only really to be used by the customer for everyday arming / disarming. It doesn't have the speed to keep up with programming up systems by the engineer.
i simply don't agree, i find it a breeze having nice large touch icons instead if the wobbly rubber buttons, only thing i will say is i had to overcome my habit of steadying my hand with my middle finger while typing, but if you really want speed then best lay the touchpad down flat, i tend ti use a PC.
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Windows update has caused pcs to crash due to variations in setup that where not tested. Are you sure you want alarm panels to do this?
Put of interest, does HKC auto update or is it user or engineer triggered?
I am sure we will do this and quite soon. I just worry for the day a panel crashes due to an update and there is a loss.
While possible, it is far less likely than a pc as it has no where near the mullions
of variation issues to cater for.
The advantages being is where older stock is perhaps used, it is brought up to date or catered fir if not possible, when installed.
you just have to hope so are the manuals, which is not a strong point of most manufacturers.
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tbf Matt, Danny DIY can gook up any panel, it is the pro installer to state that is what you are paying for - i.e. professionalism. the Agility is a very sophisticated bit of kit, but like any kit that is installed poorly will usually result in poor results - simple as,Indeed. Just about to make another acquisition that is a Risk o lover. To be fair cubit it's all wireless so danny DIY would struggle to mess up installation of it? You could practically sell it direct to end user with a tub of no more nails to fit it. The simplicity of its design I have no issue with. It's the call outs when it goes wrong that I have issues with and they can be quite frequent compared to other wireless kit we have.
So i suggest stop buying up Danny PJ estates to increase your contract portfolio, whilst moaning with great big crocodile tears that your not making a fast buck out of it, at least call in a trained product specialist professional to put them right - or ho on a training coarse - it 's FREE!
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That is real old school, not seen 2 detectors in parallel deliberately installed for many years, but was used early days of motion sensors. no elephant catchers or quads back then, MWD and Ultrasonic 's were king.Well, I did this job today swapping out for an LCD based panel.
The two detectors in the initial picture...
Wait for it, wired in
PARALLEL?!!??!!
Or as the job sheet which I found (but sadly haven't got) stuffed on top of the cabinet said 'wire garage in parell'
Twisted wires to connect speaker in trunking - no insulation
Taped up twisted wire joints in loft
Somehow ran out of wires for SAB so joined Strobe to Siren!! (Lets not forget even old panel was PD 2010)
Front door contact was Grade 1 without tamper.
All from an NSI gold sold as Grade 2X. (Not a cash job or homer). Class and a half.
Principle was if one detector was tripped by a draft, the other stopped the activation, but a large target would trip both at same time.
Could also be used for animals, as long as one did not cover stairs as example, better than stuffing large slug on the zone
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i dont doubt it for a minute....
it's no different in principle to todays dual-tecs, back then even double knock, beam pairing or programmable panels had not been introduced.
For false alarms if you could not find the cause or did not have the time, you installed a 1uf cap to "slug" the zone against intermittent's, idea being by the time that got bad enough that the cap could not overcome, it was easy enough to find on a swing needle meter..
trouble was some guys took it to the extremes, you'd find 1000uf installed, thief could open a door, have a bath, knick the gear well before the bells went off.
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think i can claim ti be possibly the first to fit a Pir ind parrellel to an mwd.
///pause for astonishment///
before pir's were the first choice, on Chubbs the AFA MWD was favoured. Well sime chump specified one in the ceiling void. so whats the problem you ask? well this was Ratners Jewellers shop, under the railway line bridge in Southend High Street. Kept truggering surprise surprise, guy would not sign to disconnect it.
so i installed what was then a very mew tech Racal 771 pir in parallel. Result was no more false alarms.
Suprvisor picks up the report, asked who authorised it - explained - told to remove it, so i said yup! OK, but any calls you cover it.
After 6 he asked me to go back and re-fit the pir lol!
Anyone know John Chantry? if you do, then you can ask him
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It was just a hobby of mine messing about with old panels and detectors
I have got many an old Aplex and Genesis going again in the shed, even an old AFA Fidela detector from 1975 !!!
Thanks for the response anyway
If you come across any old kit and you need help with, feel free to pm me, i might know about it and i'd be happy to share any information i have.
looking back, i wish i'd kept some of the old panels i ripped out in upgrades, the skills those guys had. control panels were made on site, from raw materials, they even hand made the relays and wound the coils, the workmanship was just stunning.
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Early AFA panel using flags as both control panel power and so called 'end if line' circuit batteries design, had two relays with a mechanical gate latch, this kit was called 'lock block and coffin'. The lock-block in its simplest form had a push button and key the equivilant of todays keypads, the coffin was the end station
In the Day position the bell relay was held by the gates interlocking arm, when you set the gate arm was moved away allowing fre movement of the circuit relay, bells or an agro buzzer were rung on exit having git outside user pressed a button to set and silence the bells.
if the circuit was broken the circuit relay dropped and as both relays were now de-energised a set if springs on each relay in series, rang the bells.
silence was restored with a bush button on the lock block having turned a key to activate it, the adjustment was pretty critical as was those springs being clean
it was used by many companies like Rely-A Bell, Brocks, Banhams Etc, but i don't know which had the original design or copywrite.
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James,
this is the old AFA stuff they had lots of old batteries called cells or flags I think, they were kept in wooden boxes around the site and seemed to be linked to the tube and batton stuff on the windows
The Fidela motion detector still works perfectly on a newer panel and the lamp (not LED !!) lights up when it detects movement and the relay makes a really loud click
sharedmedia=gallery:images:539]
I know these as Aritec's Advisor 3, had single units or multiplexed versions, also transmitter only units as range expanders.
Pretty good by comparison to other kit like AES (which had rubber bands supporting the transducers OMG) in their day tbh, had a little led test module called a 'BDI' - Background Disturbance Indicator, used to 'see' any low level noise.
You could change out the transducers, but usually you just had to squeeze up the plugs that connected them to the pcb. (same issue in all the Advisor Range). i proved i could actually hear them, by accurately saying when or off when operated by another engineer testing me, i had the advantage to be able to detect a warbling transmitter, but the disadvantage of extreme discomfort if i was close by, as it was very loud to me.
Because any high frequency noise could cause false alarms, you got used to listening/looking for things like escaping air from compressors, time clock, phone bells, door bells etc. even squeaking fans. and thats in too of all the other false alarm causes.
happy days lol!
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cheeky git
, no, looks like a 'home brew' to me. -
You need to invert your trigger
and possibly fit 'pull up' resistors, should be in the dialler instructions.
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Staple guns for 6 core etc = great
but for coax? a no-no imo. if you compress the coax you affect its transmission properties higher up the spectrum, making balancing of systems hard to impossible in some cases.ok, if its only 10 meters of cable, but above that, not worth the risk.
Im speaking from knowledge of large aerial systems, but the principal holds true in cctv cabling too.
breff stated 'coax staple gun', so a tool designed for the job, its boils down to experience, its not like using a club hammer instead of a pinning hammer for 6mm hiats
.for a very short period i worked for a company that used staple guns to lace wire sheet panels under hardboard. no way did i want to risk attending to see large hole on door and rusted wire staples with no a tivation
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Nothing wrong with staple guns in the right hands, I've got a coax staple gun as well, very handy.
ditto +1
cable clips get brittle, offer a possible hazard to children chocking on dislodged bits of them, seen the pin not in the holder but forced through the arch. imho any tool in the wrong hands is simply two tools put together by accident - take a neon screwdriver as example lol!
or perhaps not
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Chris Tarrent ran a show a while back, invited listeners to share their finds after moving into a house, one said she opened the under stairs cupboard to find a URN complete with ashes.
he remarks "she could have made an absolute fortune selling it as 'ready break' to the cannibals".
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not without pills he hasnt...
fapmsl
neither does the customer...
git and again fapmsl
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qfa,ive never found anything except dust...you should always ask the customer if its ok to go upstairs,go in a bedroom etc before doing so,gives the customer a chance to move stuff,lol
last thing i need is some fat old, wearing nothing but suspenders giving me the come on
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Just so you know if I leave the accounts lying around in your presense its for a reason,probably becuase I want you to have a good hard think about taking a drop in pay
lol!
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the one thing you dont do is rifle thru a customers personal paperwork..wheres the truss...
lol!.
given i work mainly in domestic, found blue mags, questionable underwear, smelly cricket boxes, loads if 'secret' cash but never ever found sexual toys
.one very prim and proper lady, flawed me with a remark. due to me needing access she found some of her husbands porno. showing multi entry sex, one male 'model' had an erect fence post like appendage, on seeing it she calmly remarks 'guess its somewhere to hang his hat'.
just hilarious, un-expected reaction lol!
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Imagine what he'd change arfs to
Arfur Thatcher?
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as above these panels do like mains on before battery, this means you have little option than to have the panel lid open. please beware of the internal mains fuss block and your straying little pinky.
for best safety, disconnect battery remove then restore power from the mains spur fuse unit (or plug) feeding AC power to the controls (that should be near it and marked).
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hour for hour recovery time after midnight, out for 3 hours (from leaving house to walking back in) start 3 hours later the following day.
i enforce that rule (as shop steward) on Chubb Eastern, after 2 guys within a month fell asleep at the wheel, during a very heavy lightning spell, which back then you knew you would be out all night.
i think only 3 systems nocked out by electrical storms since i started, nothing fried to dust, but knocked silly.
suspect if this reduction is down to mainly using polly boxes instead of metal - anyone think the same?
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No worries. To be fair, Alpha Alarms up here used to use the green as pos and the white as neg for some odd reason. Still catches me out on occasion when swapping out a detector!
i use red/black for power, but i've seen green white done quit allot, think its a colour consistency preference. i.e. days if 4 core (obviously no G/W) for contacts, 6 core for detectors, so you could maintain the more common 4 core red/black for zone feed out, yellow blue for the zone return on DP systems.
today eol means you can feed 3 detectors from an 8 core, commonly brown/orange would be to the furthest device or pab, but maintain green white as power.
before anyone shouts and hollers, and gets all snotty, its what i have seen - not what i do.
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you need to reduce those bare wires, cut them down so casing nearly meets the connector block.
be careful the resistors in the picture don't short out due to bare resistor leads and your exposed cable ends, which can happen as you close the lid.
nice touch is to use some sleeve casing stripped from larger size surplus cable, and put it over the resistor leads.
Just released what I wrote was a load of ********. Sod it off to bed.
just as well you 'released' it the
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, no, looks like a 'home brew' to me.
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Led Floodlights
in Electrics
Posted
one's used recently in a garage were sourced from CEF by the sparks, they were detector floods and worked very well, don't know if i would go higher than say 1st with them.
beware they are not cheap for the most powerful ones and best to keep away from Ebay for them. as one's another client bought were just plain dangerous, bordering on lethal.