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Veritas R8 Plus Wiring Help


marksandsparks

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:hmm: I've fitted a Texecom Veritas R8Plus control panel and completed the wiring but I have purchased an ADE Reson8 SAB. I'm not sure if I have wired the box up correctly as the wiring advice for both of these differs. Could someone please help.

The R8 Plus control panel states that:

Terminal A = Permanent positive supply +12V

" B = Switched negative to activate sounder

" C = Negative tamper return

" D = Permanent negative supply 0V

" S = Switched negative to activate the strobe

The Reson8 SAB shows:

Terminals: RTN - Hold Off+ Hold off - Trig - Stb -

Bearing these in mind can someone please tell me what needs to be connected to what. I did have the strobe working earlier and the bell but I'm not sure if I have damaged it in some way unless I know what the correct wiring should be.

Thank you.

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The R8 Plus control panel states that:

Terminal A = Permanent positive supply +12V

" B = Switched negative to activate sounder

" C = Negative tamper return

" D = Permanent negative supply 0V

" S = Switched negative to activate the strobe

The Reson8 SAB shows:

Terminals: RTN - Hold Off+ Hold off - Trig - Stb -

A = Hold Off +

B = Trig -

C = RTN-

D = Hold Off -

S = Stb -

If in doubt call a local installer, could save money in damaged equipment.

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Thanks for your prompt reply. I wonder if I've damaged it somehow then.

The R8Plus installation manual advises that to test the alarm I can make a temp. connection between B and D. And to check the strobe between S and D. These don't work.

However, if I wire it up incorrectly with C to Hold Off - and D to RTN - and then make the temp. connection the bell does sound but the strobe still won't work.

Any ideas?

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I've followed the test procedure. The sounder sounds when pressing 1 but the strobe does not illuminate when pressing 2.
I did have the strobe working earlier and the bell but I'm not sure if I have damaged it in some way

:hmm:

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With the strobe activated, test for a voltage between positive connection and strobe terminal in the control panel.. Should be >12 volts

If so, carry out the same test at the sounder. . but be careful not to touch the strobe or anything near it. They produce very high voltage.

:!: :!:

Thanks for this reply. The fuse is OK. I've checked the voltage at the control panel as you ask. However, it is only about 1.5v, which is probably why the flashing LED on the bell box are not bright, why the sounder is not as loud as I thought it should be and why the strobe doesn't light up.

Any idea what is hapenning?

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Thanks for this reply. The fuse is OK. I've checked the voltage at the control panel as you ask. However, it is only about 1.5v, which is probably why the flashing LED on the bell box are not bright, why the sounder is not as loud as I thought it should be and why the strobe doesn't light up.

Any idea what is hapenning?

Check the voltage with the sounder cables removed, if it jumps back to 12-volt (actually greater) then you have something pulling the voltage down, possibly a cable short somewhere or a damaged bellbox - did you clip through a cable somewhere?

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Check the voltage with the sounder cables removed, if it jumps back to 12-volt (actually greater) then you have something pulling the voltage down, possibly a cable short somewhere or a damaged bellbox - did you clip through a cable somewhere?

Earlier today when I was testing the system it was showing a tamper fault. I believe I narrowed this down to a damaged cable to the bellbox. I think this was when I first saw the strobe working OK. I replaced this cable so the one in place now should be perfect.

I have tested the voltage as you say with the bell disconnected and it is only showing 1.6v across 12v and 0v terminals. And the voltage between 12v and the strobe drops to 1v. I haven't tested the voltage at the bellbox yet as it's too dark outside.

Do you think the bellbox is damaged?

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