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SalopMan

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Everything posted by SalopMan

  1. Good point. No, it doesn't stop so I suppose it must be that the problem is on the siren box ?
  2. I tried removing the BLF jumper but it didn't make any difference I'm afraid. (The documentation says that the jumper sets 'Low input required' or 'High input required'.) I'm guessing that the problem is being caused by the 9448+ control box. Everything else works as it should including the tamper switch on the siren box which activates the siren when released.
  3. I've connected GND to the second TAMPER terminal and that's fixed the tamper problem. I still get the blue LED's strobing permanently. Can you explain what I need to do to invert the strobe in the panel or sounder ?
  4. James.Wilson suggested that it "sounds like your strobe is configured the wrong way. It will need inverting in the panel if the panel is wrong or the bell etc " I'm afraid I don't know how to do this James. Apologies for my dimness !
  5. I do remember David Bailey. I recently read his autobiography. It's very amusing. Photos are attached. As it stands, I get a tamper alert every time I power it up. Disconnecting the Tamper connection on the siren doesn't alter this. If I insert a loop between TR and 0V on the control box then I don't get the tamper alert and I can set and unset the alarm and trigger the alarm by opening the door switch as expected. All four blue LED's on the siren box are strobing as soon as the power is applied and nothing changes this state. The single red LED on the siren box flashes once every 7 seconds which indicates that the "Sounder is OK". It's going to be installed in an outbuilding with just a couple of door switches. I currently have one door switch connected to the EE terminals on the control box. I have set Zones 1 to 6 to Not Used (option 15).
  6. The siren box is an Eaton SDR-WEXT-00 (also made by Scantronic I suspect). This was supposed to be in the heading to this topic but I missed it off somehow. There's only one anti-tamper switch on the siren box which seems to trigger if either the lid is opened or the box is prised off the wall. I've actually got it all to a state where it nearly works OK. I, surprisingly, got a response to an enquiry to Scantronic's support team. They confirmed that BLA is the Bell Trigger and BLF is the Strobe Trigger (as you said before). They also gave me a list of the meanings of the little red LED which, for the benfefit of anyone looking at this in the future, are : LED Flashes Every 7 Seconds : One Sounder all OK Two Low/loss of 12v Three Standby battery low Four Siren run time exceeded The problems that remain are that 1) I can only get it to operate if I link TR to 0V on the control box (which presumably negates the anti-tamper connection to the siren box) and 2) The four blue LED's strobe all the time except for when an alarm is triggered, when the two middle ones go out and the outer ones flash brighter and simultaneously. Am I right in assuming that the the four blue LED's should only be on during or after an alarm condition ?
  7. Thanks James. You're right about my connections of course, I need to be more careful. I tried connecting 'Bell' on the control box to 'BLA' on the siren box and 'STR' on the control box to 'BLF' on the siren box. Also '12v' to '12v' and '0V' to 0V'. As soon as I power it up I get the 4 blue LED's strobing on the siren box plus a single red LED that flashes 3 times periodically. Opening a door contact starts the entry delay time and eventually triggers the internal sounder as it should but there is no change at the siren box at all and it just keeps flashing without sounding the siren. I googled BLA and BLF and got a result that suggested that BLF was for a fire alarm connection but I'm not sure if this is correct. If I could find a manual/instruction sheet for the siren it would help. The single sheet supplied with it doesn't explain what the various terminals are or what the LED patterns mean. I may try to contact the manufacturer to see if they can supply anything more enlightening.
  8. I need to connect these two but the right connections aren't clear (well, not to me anyway !) The 12v and 0v are pretty obvious but does anyone know what the BLA and BLF connections on the sounder relate to on this control box ? Diagrams and photo are attached.
  9. I simply hadn't secured the tamper switch on the control box tightly enough. Everything seems to work as expected now. Amateurs eh ? Thanks again to you both for trying to help. I now need to connect the sounder/strobe box. The connections aren't obvious but I'll post this as another topic in this forum I think.
  10. I have checked with meter that the tamper lopps are both connected. The equipment was supplied as a kit by alertelectrical.com and it all looks to be brand new.
  11. The 9448+ control box doesn't have its own keypad so I need to connect the remote keypad as a minimum.
  12. Hi. Thanks for your interest. Yes, I've connected 0V and TR on the 9448+ while the siren isn't connected. (I'm just trying get it set up on my bench at the moment prior to actually installing it.) The tamper switches on the control box and the remote keypad are both held shut with rubber bands.
  13. I'm trying to connect a new Scantronic 9448+ control panel to a remote 9427 control pad. I have installed a loop on the anti-tamper connections but the pad permanently lights its anti-tamper indicator and won't arm. I've connected a single magnetic door switch to the EE entry/exit connectors (it's for an outbuilding with a single door). I haven't connected a strobe/siren box or any backup batteries at all yet. There are 4 connections between the control box and the remote pad : 12V to 12V 0V to 0V DATA to DATA CLK to CLK (Even I couldn't get these wrong!) After powering it up I can silence the internal sounder by entering the default user code and I can get into the programming mode and set all of the six zones as 'Not used'. But the Tamper indicator still glows and I'm unable to set the alarm without triggering the sounder. If anybody can offer any advice I'd be very grateful.
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