backofthenet
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Posts posted by backofthenet
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Did put new battery in - old one was disconnected and past it's useful life anyway - suspect it was orginal.
Also done all the tests including real life tests and the PIR's / Door sensors seem to activate when intruder detected
haven't "real life" checked every PIR just the obvious ones but it's wearing a bit thin with her indoors now so one to finish once she is out.
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Got to say - I Know nothing about alarm systems but I am impressed that something 30 years old that has not really been maintained looks like it is in good working order. OK the outside bells were toast but they have had the elements hitting them since 1994.
Also although I did replace the PIR's all round (mainly due to decorating and the old ones had gone that cream colour that shows age) I do think the original PIR's were better than what I have replaced them with.
Does the Optima 2 Plus have a good reputation in the Industry?
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Yes - the user guide is not very helpful
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On 29/03/2021 at 17:24, sixwheeledbeast said:
It's alright replacing components like for like but often if the systems been in for a while and not checked over by someone knowledgable the system design would need assessment.
Agreed - I wasted my money in a way on the surface mounts in a way - although only £7.50 - as I now have everything working including an alarm that arms and goes off during an intruder event.
as an enthusiastic amateur I'm delighted to say the least.
Two final issues I had
1. The alarm would not arm itself - always had 1 high pitched beep followed by 3 low pitched beep's when entering customer code and this would just go on and on and the alarm would not set - by trial and error this was solved by omitting ZONE 3 when arming - at which point the alarm armed itself after the 30 seconds escape time I had set.
2. To my dismay even though the alarm was armed upon activating a PIR then no outside bells BUT tamper but attack was indicated on control panel - solved by going into engineer mode and taking option 7 - sounder options and toggling "Fire/Outside bells" on.
all started working - so a working alarm system
finally i went through all the tests in engineer mode and all seems OK
One final point - ZONE 3 LED does not light up on the control panel (which is how i guessed what was causing my two final issues) though and i'm wondering if that's a faulty LED bulb? and can they be replaced?
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2 hours ago, al-yeti said:
Just means alarm was knackered well before you decided to look at it, and walking around not realising many bells have comfort lights
You do know what your doing right?
Not really (know what i am doing) but have learnt a ,lot with the help of you Guy's - now have modern working bell boxes.
Just put the control panel through all it's tests in engineer mode
1. External bell - Pass
2. External strobe - Pass
3. Internal low volume bell on control panel - pass
4. Internal high volume bell on control panel - pass
5. Walk test - zones - fail - Zone 4 causing issues - I think next thing for the same of £10 or so is to change all the surface mount magnetic door contacts - 4 in all - as they look a bit 1994!
ref point 5 - the alarm won't arm itself either at the moment - when entering code alarm gives a low beep followed by 3 high pitched beeps but does'nt stop so not activating. Sometimes say zone 4 is at fault but if i slam the door / tap the surface mount contact on the door the light for zone f4 goes out.
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2 hours ago, MrHappy said:
lol missed this,
the comfort led's on an external sounder are not really a new thing, the earlist I can recall fitting is a CQR Ultima 1994 is ?
Ha ha - the two old 1994 external sounders i have just thrown away at the tip did'nt have this feature so thought i was moving into the 21st century.
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22 minutes ago, james.wilson said:
as long as its connected to strobe neg in the bell then yes.
yep 100% blue is connected to strobe negative in the bell box - i'll make the control panel change in the morning and move blue to strobe -ve in control panel
on a side note I didn't realise with these bell boxes that the Left and Right LED's alternate slow flash when in operation even if alarm not set - which is a good feature.
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9 minutes ago, james.wilson said:
as i said its a strobe +, not a strobe - hopefully it hasnt damaged your bell
Strobe + is an additional permanent + on the days of way back when strobes were a seperate device not all built into a modern sounder
The bell unit is still working in test mode just no strobe - which is why i think i need to move the blue cable in the control unit from terminal 48 and put it into terminal 49 (strobe -ve)
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3 hours ago, sixwheeledbeast said:
One bell didn't have a strobe connection in the panel?
No - both white and blue wires are connected in the panel - white to 49 and blue to 48
BUT the blue wire in the original external second unit did not have the blue wire connected at all - I connected the blue wire to the new external second unit
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Hi, thanks for the reply - if you look at the control panel then "strobe" is identified as 48 and 49 - both have a connection going in - 48 blue and 49 white
although the manual seems to suggest that only 49 is -ve
does that mean i need to take the blue wire out of terminal 48 and put it into terminal 49 as well along woth the white cable.
(i'm assuming that the blue wire in 48 is the cable that goes to bell 2 with the non working strobe?)
also if i'm in engineer mode can i take the front panel off the control unit and prevent a tamper?
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Hi - Update,
Have now wired in both Texacom's
Front of house all working fine.
Rear of house - bell works fine but no strobe - can't understand why as the control panel strobe connections are wired 48 blue and 49 white - so connected front strobe to 49 - white and that works - rear to 48 - blue and that won't strobe. I must admit that on the oriiginal config the blue was not connected to strobe in rear but green was - but no green wire is connected to strobe on control panel - only blue and white.
One other point - i have both external boxes set at battery yes and SCB yes - issue with that is if i power the system off (no battery in control panel yet) then the bells go off - so how can i open up the panels now?
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Thanks all,
i'm happy with having a working system but drawing minimal load based o it's age - 1994
So based on minimal load on system I will set jumper 1 = battery on both units and jumper 2 = SCB on both units unless you disagree
think the neighbours might appreciate less loud alarms anyway
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Thanks All,
any advice on the correct jumper settings for external unit 1 & 2
i think unit 1 can be factory set but unit 2 must be jumper 1 = battery on and jumper 2 = SCB ?
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Thanks
The bells have the following terminals
A (12V ) Permanent Positive Supply
B (BELL) Negative Applied Output to Activate Siren
C (TAMP) Negative Removed on Tamper Input
D (0V) Permanent Negative Supply
S (STRB) Negative Applied Output to Activate Strobe
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Hello All - finally going to fit the new bell boxes this week and need some help please.
I am fitting some new external alarms – to replace the very old and broken ones (one at front and one at rear. The old ones are fitted to very old optima 2 plus control panel.
The old external bells / strobes are from a company called GardinerTechnology Ltd I think –
The new ones I have are Texecom Odyssey 3E.
A photo is attached for the current wiring in the control panel
Terminals 48 & 49 are strobe – 48 blue wire 49 white wire
T is –ve tamper return – one yellow wire
A is –ve supply (OV) – pair of black wires
D is +ve supply (12v) pair of red wires
B is bell ringer – one white and one green wire connected to this terminal
Question is what wires should go where into the texacoms
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So did all the checks and all was in working order......
The issue was the wiring covering over the sensor!!!! - Typical DIY Job!!
I have 10 (old ) spare PIR's now - 8 in fully working order - the other two work but casing cracked - are these of any use to anyone - or is it the relevant recycling skip at the TIP?
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Hi All,
So i have replaced all the PIR's now and all is fine apart from one on the landing. The sensor light is not coming on!. So i thought faulty light and tried one of the other PIR's - alas the same - no light.
I'm pretty sure the circuit is wired correctly as when i remove the cover and the alarm is armed then tamper alarm goes off.
The wiring is straight forward with T1, T2, N, NC V- , V+ - wires configured as per old PIR which was fine.
Any ideas as to why the sensor light won't come on? - How i can test if it is the PIR or the circuit?
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Thanks everyone - think this one looks and is similar dimensions to the old one
Texecom Premier Odyssey 3E External Sounder FCC-0843
i'll wait for the warmer weather
then make the change
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Thanks Peter - would you recommend any external sounder/strobe?
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It was switched off at the power and battery removed for many years so guess that counts as decommissioned - however i have it switched on without a battery for past couple of years
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Hi,
I have a very old Optima 2 Plus alarm system which for my sins i have decided to get working again after many years of inactivity.
The system was installed in 1995 I believe - we moved in some years after.
Anyway have now got most of tye system working again having made sure all PIR's are working and access / exit points are all fine.
However the external bell box / strobe is not working - it's as old as the alarm itself.
so the question is can i source a like for like replacement / repair tye existing unit (not that i know how to)
Best Regards
Mike
Optima 2 Plus Alarm - External Bell Box and Strobe
in Guest Forum
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