Shadrack

Well thank you guys very very much. I really appreciate the help I got! Much more than I expected. I'll see if I can save up for a new panel. There's a supplier with the Premier 412 8 zone for R1,027.41 so I'll see if I can get that next month or the month after. or would you guys recommend a different one? the others are pricier so may take longer to save for them.

I've armed the armed partition 1 just fine. I then closed zone 1 through 4, one at a time, then all together, no changing of states at all.

Nope, no change with or without the jumper cable

Hi SWB, I removed all wiring per your instruction, set zone 1 to instant, wiring NO, partition one. here are the pics.

Update: I have added the jumper/dupont in zone 4 between Com and Z4. Zone 4 is still active. (PS, there is another reply just before this I made on page 2, this overflows from that) I also then changed the dupont for a resistor to emulate EOL resistor

Yeah, I set null since nothing is plugged in, now, with nothing plugged in, I changed to 04 Interior Instant with zone wiring Normally Open. shows no fault. so open circuit. which is correct. as there is no jumper/resistor. NOW changing to Single EOL - S/C Tamper, now shows zone 4 active. Gonna go install a jumper/dupont cable for Zone 4 now.

Ok let's start from the top. As of typing this I have removed all wiring except siren, remote, power and AUX power to the sensors. all sensor signal wires are removed. NO jumpers/resistors in yet. the terminals are empty. The settings for the zones are all nulled as a starting point. Here's pics of everything so far:

Nope, constant "active", even if I clear faults/disarm. First 4 zones (the only zones this PCB has) are all redlining.

Turns out when they were all clear, they were all set to Null zone type, out of all the zone types and wiring, unless set to "N/O" it shows active.

No matter what I set the zone config to, it shows active. So.. thinking after all this, something is broken?

Does anyone have the newer firmware for the 412? I can only find the firmware for Premier elite, which this is not. trying to fix the issue of even all shorted, all zones say active/trouble

I've tried all, unless I select Normally Open, all list as "active", even when using jumpers direct from com to zone. Any advice on that? I am very confused at this point. PS, thanks for all your help so far everyone. I've indeed made progress through your help!

I've measured the resistance over the wires for zone 3, 3.3k, then when someone walks in front of it, changes to open circuit. PIR seems fine. Rechecked wiring. Seem's correct. used multimeter on panel side to confirm the same (in case a wire broke in the ceiling etc), works fine. I wire it up to zone 3 on the panel, so I should program it to: Zone: 03 zone type: 04 Interior instant zone wiring: Single EOL - N/C Partition: 1 Attributes 1: Enable Bell, Enable Instant Strobe, Enable transmission Attributes 2: Enable Manual Bypass, Enable stay bypass Attributes 3: none Zone text: passage correct?

The firmware on the panel is Premier 412 Version 7.1, would updating be possible for such an old panel? without bricking it.

Alright I've made some progress! Might make it easier. I've assembled a TTL to USB device and mapped the COM 1 port on the 412 and managed to hack it all together so I can use Wintex to see the panel. Now to figure how to go from there

Changed to wire links. Reset config, disabled box tamper, let it boot up, reset time/date, all zone lights showed unlit. So progress I think? I then proceeded to add zone 3 (passage) as it's easier to test that while I'm busy with it since the keypad is 1m away from it. configured that zone as an interior instant NC. (Is this correct? it's the PIR from previous PIR picture), it does not detect when I stand there. the sensor itself lights up, the zone on the keypad does not. Also, that trouble light is illuminated still.

Well I did nuke config back to defaults so it shouldn't be an issue? also I removed the broken reed and removed the wires so no more 2 reeds on 1 zone. as it is while I type this, all sensors removed, replaced with resistors.

that is out of engineers. Engineers has all 8 lit up. I tried tamper disable pin on the controller, (has a 3 jumper pinout for Tamper Disable), same thing.

I removed all sensors. I've added resistors to all zones (please check the pics if this is right?) and reset to default. I've programmed date and time. This is what I've got now:

the multimeter shows reed 1 at 3.3k and reed 2 on 5.2k. so I'd have to up the reed1 resistor?

Does resistor value matter for testing? I've got about 5 thousand resistors here to choose from so.. just want to know which to select for the alarm testing. To also be sure I removed the second reed zone for testing too.

Here are the pics of the PIR sensors, and 1 of the REED sensors

All electricals seem fine, so I am pretty sure it's programming however even with the install manual I am struggling. As for the 2 zones wired together (the 2 doors on reed switches) I've traced the wiring and they've been wired in parallel with 2 different valued resistors. Would it work in parallel like this?

Indeed.. if you are lucky.. I sadly earn less than half of that for 52+ hours of work a week. So I really do apologize to anyone offended/annoyed about me not wanting to pay someone else to do it.. and I do apologize for wanting some basic security, I'm trying. I am electrically competent hence willing to delve into fixing it. Regarding the pictures requested, sure. Here they are 29.10.02. Yes the 2 in zone 3 are the 2x door reed switches. , sorry. I did however do continuity tests on all of the wires and mapped them to their respective passives and reeds. I did move them to zone one though. They had it wired so zone 1 was passage, zone 2 was lounge, zone 3 was door 1 and far bedroom and zone 4 was other door. which I felt it would be better to be a bit more structured. So I've put Zone 1 as the 2 doors, Zone 2 as the lounge, zone 3 as the passage and zone 4 as the bedroom so it makes a trail of where the sensors are in the house in that order, easier to follow movement that way. The sensors all light up when I walk in. Thank you all so far. (edited in: side note, I know the copper is exposed on those 2 wires, I will be redoing that shortly so they aren't exposed)