jackaddressable
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Posts posted by jackaddressable
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1 hour ago, al-yeti said:
All good dude
The dimension is a great panel to do weird things with
yep, got one more RIO to go onto line 2 so as long as it accepts that then I'll be pretty happy
planning to add some security lighting controlled by relays onto it as the next project
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18 minutes ago, al-yeti said:
Probably the one he bought on eBay then
16 minutes ago, james.wilson said:lol yeah maybe
yeah, was a used panel off eBay to replace an aging Galaxy 504 Classic, not going to lie.
At the end of the day, its not really a problem at all because there's unused lines on the panel and line 2 seems to support normal keypads, the system is for personal reassurance rather than being monitored or on the insurance, but it is slightly annoying.
guess that teaches me.
thanks for the help and if anyone has any other ideas or solutions or experience, please let me know
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13 hours ago, james.wilson said:
No reason the keypad/keyprox is still keypad
13 hours ago, al-yeti said:Faulty?
Okay, so after some quick tests this morning the following results were noted:
- The cable is causing the poor keypad communications to the upstairs keypad, as when connecting the same keypad using a fly lead, 100% communications were observed, even with the keypad being on line 2, which might have issues. Are there any issues I should immediately look at before replacing the cable? It's shielded Belden as was recommended.
- The keyprox does function correctly when attached to line 3 as opposed to line 2 so it seems that the keyprox is not directly at fault?
- Therefore, line 2 on the Galaxy has some issue where it cannot accept a keyprox but can accept a keypad? Has anyone seen any issue like this before or has any suggestions on cause/things to try and fix? Seems like the Dimension is at fault but these are usually robust panels.
Thanks for the help guys
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53 minutes ago, james.wilson said:
id want to get to the bottom of the low comms thats normally pretty serious either cable or panel but then if you use line 3 it will prove either
okay, will do, thank you
should have checked what the diagnostic keypad comms said earlier when it was on a fly lead ugh
out of interest, if there are data issues with the cable or panel, why would a keypad work but a keyprox not?
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27 minutes ago, al-yeti said:
How did you set the address on the keyprox?
Are they all same model numbers be more specific
Pictures?
How are you remove the keyprox and keypad physical or by menu aswell?
Hey,
The address was set by turning the rotary switch to zero on the keyprox while disconnected then inserting the terminal block onto the keyprox.
The model number used is CP037 for the original keypad and this is being replaced by a CP038-01.
The procedure for removal was to remove the keypad CP037 at address 20 physically then delete the module off the system, then add the new CP038-1 at address 20 however it just flashes with stars or flashes with an entirely blank screen but still backlit and does not say MODULE ADDED when exiting engineer mode.
Attached are pictures of the the working keypad and the non working keyprox on the test lead. It flashes with stars and the power LED also flashes and will not be seen by the panel.
15 minutes ago, james.wilson said:id test the keyprox on short lead on line 3 maybe see if it adds key 30 and max 30
You thinking it could be a fault with the panel line 2?
Thanks all
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8 minutes ago, james.wilson said:
no what does menu 61 keypads say about address's responding? ie 10, 20, 51 etc
hey,
keypad 10 downstairs has 100%, keypad 20 when using the normal working keypad has a comms level that fluctuates between 60% and 95%, so clearly major problems here.
however when the keyprox was used with a test lead direct from panel the same problem was observed even with a 1m cable so i'm not sure if the cable was the problem but your insight would be appreciated
50 and 51 have 100% comms
thanks again for your help so far :)
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1 minute ago, james.wilson said:
You have the key prox addressed as 0?
The downstairs keyprox is line 1 address 0
The upstairs keypad is line 2 address 0 and works but when swapped for the keyprox at address 0 the keyprox won't appear on the system it just flashes **** or goes blank but is still powered
Does that work? Or am I missing something about unique addressing?
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56 minutes ago, james.wilson said:
Address 0 line 2 should be ok for the keyprox, how are you 'adding' the module?
where did you get the keyprox from also?
which one is it?
Hey,
It's an eBay one, no lies here,so there was a risk in buying but I don't know how the keyprox would work on one line but not another, surely it'd just be gubbed if it was an eBay broken one?
I've added the module different ways now, once by the procedure in the installation manual, which was to wire it up and exit engineer mode, but I've also added in restarting the panel to try to force it to recognise the device on other attempts.
Also sorry for confusing wording, the downstairs devices are wired on line one which goes from panel to keypad 1 and goes in another direction to the garage, both ends are terminated with 680 ohm resistors. The upstairs is only a keypad which is on AB line 2 and is terminated with a 680ohm.
I'm relatively proficient with the system, it was left over in the house by the previous owner who installed it, it used to be a Galaxy 504 but I changed it out for a Dimension.
Thanks again.
1 hour ago, Logan said:Same place he gets that white powder from
?
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Hi,
I am having a unique problem with the Galaxy Dimension 520 panel. Currently there are two keypads on the system: one keyprox downstairs at address 10 and one normal keypad upstairs at address 20.I am trying to change out the normal keypad for a keyprox however I cannot get the new keyprox to work.
I have removed keypad 20 and attached the new keyprox but whenever I try to add the module it does not appear and either flashes with a blank screen or flashes the *********** across the screen.
I tried swapping the new keyprox with the downstairs keyprox and this worked fine so the keyprox has no issues.
The normal keypad also still operates properly upstairs so it can't be this. The only difference between the down and upstairs is that downstairs runs on line 2 and upstairs on line 1.
Any suggestions at all would be appreciated.
Thanks.
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9 hours ago, james.wilson said:
if its a newer one then one is the on board 232 module
It's definitely not a newer one lol
Classic 504, still in pretty decent condition although watching the memory battery closely for signs of corrosion. Runs good still.
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7 hours ago, GalaxyGuy said:
The 4 pin headers just connect to the RS485 bus and power. 12v, 0v, A, B. Same as the screw terminals.
Ah okay. Does each socket correspond to a line on the panel?
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3 hours ago, MrHappy said:
spi key ?
Don't think so.
In my panel, there are 3 sockets labelled S1, S2, and S3 on the right hand side of the main board. The S1 is connected to a RIO via a 4 pin Molex style lead. Does that help?
Thanks
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Hi guys,
Simple question, what are these and what do they do?
Many thanks,
Jack
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Is it above 1200 ohms that you'd see high res? I seem to recall that?
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8 hours ago, whistle said:
The cqr ones we have problems with have links you cut for the desired resistance.
we now use knight plastic contacts YEND 74 for 99% of our jobs.
Yeah, cuttable links inside. It is a shame because I like the design of them, but they do need to work.
7 hours ago, GalaxyGuy said:Those panels are reliable apart from the PCB mounted battery corroding. Just replace the contact and you'll be up and running again. That said, a 2nd hand dimension is very cheap these days.
Are the PCB mounted batteries replaceable? I'm assuming they're for memory? Also, I have seen a few Dimension panels on eBay, I've always got an eye out for when this goes.
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27 minutes ago, whistle said:
We have had loads of problems with the grade 3 cqr contacts going hi res over a number of years.
just today I went to one and replaced it for this reason, the 200 mile round trip wasn’t what I needed this afternoon. This was on a galaxy 96 not that it makes any difference.
Really? Wow. That's actually surprising. I don't really like the resistors inside, but that's just a personal thing. To rectify this, did you switch to another manufacturer on your own installs?
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To be honest, the panel is getting older anyway, and is a candidate for replacement. It's an old rip out. Galaxy Classic 504 lol.
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Alright, thanks. Sorry to bother you
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Well, resistance was showing 1135 ohms, but I'm not sure what it's jumping to and why. Obviously jumping over 1200 ohms though, and opening and closing the door made resistance to 1040 ohms. It's a door contact too, a CQR. System was not fitted by myself, but by the last owner and maintained by me.
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Hello,
I have a zone on a RIO with high resistance being randomly reported. I've omitted the zone for the time being, but what's the most likely issue in your opinions? It's on a standard RIO, but the fact that it happens randomly, i.e. one moment all is fine, the next it is not, makes me think the problem may lie with the RIO?
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1 hour ago, james.wilson said:
I've always broke the tab out and put a screw in the wall and adjusted as needed
Yeah, I read that is a decent idea somewhere. I have another question - is there anything else that can cause a tamper on one of these keypads? Specifically loose wiring?
Regards,
Jack
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18 hours ago, magpye said:
Well, I've been an alarm engineer for as long as I can remember and what has been suggested, especially the first answer is the way to go.
J, what do you think should be done then?
Please put me and hundreds of others right then.
Honeywell should have made those tampers a bit better. From what I've seen here, quite a few have had this problem. I'm not trying to disapprove of the card method etc, I just think that it's a shame for engineers and installers alike to have such a basic problem. I'm more annoyed that there is a problem, a solution is a solution.
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Okay, thanks. That's fine, will do. It isn't the best, but will make do. Thanks mate.
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Hello,
I've got a Galaxy MK7 keypad giving a keypad tamper. The tamper switch on the rear of the keypad is not being adequately pressed down by the mounting plate and accompanying tamper peg. Does anyone have any advice on a short term solution for this issue?
Regards,
Jack
Galaxy Mk7 Keyprox Not Working
in !!..DIY Installers..!!
Posted
agreed, thanks