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malfoy

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Posts posted by malfoy

  1. I'm about to replace my old alarm system with a Texecom. Looking at the old external bell, there doesn't appear to be any visiable means of fastening - can't see any caps etc that may be covering the screws. Could it just be a pushed on?? The cover is completely faded so no manufacturers names! I can just take a happer to it but wanted to remove it properly - then can use it as a dummy at the back of the house.

    Thanks.

  2. 9 hours ago, secureiam said:

    what are the address switches on the expander set to?

    what are the network leds doing?

    wired up network in on the 8XP?

    @secureiam

    Address switch is set to 1 but I tried 2 as well.

    On the panel side Tx is solid on and Rx is flashing

    On the 8XP Rx (Data from Panel) pulses - about once a second)

                        Tx (Data to panel) is OFF

    Yes, the wiring from the Panel is connected to "Network In"

    On the possibility I had done something wrong, I swapped the wiring around with the Keypad. Keypad still works but 8xp is still not working. And each time I make a change I "Confirm Device" in the Engineers Utils on the keypad but when I check the status on the keypad it still shows Expander 1 Offline as does Wintex diagnostics.

    I'm starting to think the 8XP has a fault - what do you think?

    Thanks for your help.

  3. Hi,

       I'm bench testing my new alarm system. Have a Premier Elite 24, LCDP Keypad, COM-IP, Premier DT PIR. The panel is working with the keypad and PIRS (tried contecting a couple of them). I can connect using Wintex from my PC to the panel and program it. I got a Premier Elite 8XP remote expander. I connect it to the panel to the Network connectors (same place the keypad is connected) and power up. The 8XP powers up but doesn't connect to the network (Wintex diagnostics tell me it's offline). Also the LEDs on the 8XP are :

     LED A: Flashing

     LED B: Off

     LED C: On

     

    According to the manual LED B off means "Network Out not Connected" which matches the diagnostic display in Wintex. I can't see anything in Wintex to 'turn on' the device. Have I missed something?

    Edit: Forgot to say I set the jumpers to Star wiring and I thought maybe the wire is defective so I tried replacing with a different wire.

     

  4. 21 hours ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

    Part sets?

    Thanks. I acutally did wonder about that and having read up on it, that may be the better solution: It's easier to wire up a PIR than the shock sensors unless I go with a wireless expander.

  5. Thanks everyone. I think from my point of view there's two reasons for the hallway PIR. There is the small cloakroom with entry from the hallway which has a window - so the PIR covers anyone getting access that way as well as the entry door. The other one is the reminder the alarm is on. Saved me many times when we have guest staying overnight: Even though you tell them the alarm is on, I can't remember the number of times they head down at 6am. The hallway PIR has acted as a wake up alarm so I can run down and turn it off :D.

    I had one other question - what's your opinion on PIRs in the bedroom. The downstairs is extended at the back with a pitched roof. This sort of gives easy access to the back bedrooms upstairs. Would you recomend PIRs in those two bedrooms?

  6. On 09/05/2016 at 6:14 PM, sixwheeledbeast said:

    Perimeter protection for pets where possible IMO.

    Otherwise Bosch Blu Line for pet detectors. 

     

    Expect it to be a learning curve, we have seen many IT bods come and go over the years...

     

    Com-Wifi best set up on a VPN and would recommend LAN instead card if possible to wire.

     

    Thanks for the advice. I looked at the Bosch Blue line and they look good so think I might switch to them instead. And the ComIP is probably better as you say, I think I can get an ethernet cable to the panel so will look at using that instead.

  7. On 08/05/2016 at 7:33 PM, secureiam said:

    the panel is fine, but there is more to the panel than wiring.

     

    programming requires some basic understanding of what you want it to do, and what its capable of and what things mean.

     

    Alarm manuals are not known for simplicity, they are more round basic wiring, what a function means and where to find it, but not how to set it up properly.

     

     

    Petwise detectors are only any good if setup correctly and suitable for the animal(pet you have), cats are well known for climbing and jumping up, and once they get above a certai height the pet detectors may not help, also getting robbed by people under a certain height.

    Thanks. Appreciate the advice. I'm trying to do as much research as I can on everything before I press the button to buy the kit. I'm sure I'll come across things I don't understand. My plan is to keep it simple as possible to begin with and I might need to ask the odd question here if I get stuck on the terminology.

  8. 7 hours ago, QSXS said:

    I would agree with sixwheeledbeast, best to face inwards, also your plan does not show an radiators,heating ducts, stoves etc, that should also be considered.

    And, I would be very careful of the PIR in the hall, if you have a letter box in the door.

    You have not indicated the location of the panel, but if you are putting it in the utility room, it could be at risk of tampering from intrusion by the fitted window. But you would be protecting against a professional.

     

     

    .

     

    Thanks for the advice. There are almost no radiators downstairs, just one in the hallway on the right wall (wall shared with utility room) and one in the office under the window. For the PIRs I was going to take  sixwheeledbeast's advice in another thread to use  Bosch Blu Line for pet detectors  since they can cope better with temperature variations - hence it should cope with the hallway radiator. I'll try and put as many as I can facing inwards.

    The panel is in the garage at the moment and I was planning on leaving it there to save rewiring the whole thing.

    I've already have a note in my plans to make sure I cater for the letterbox.

  9. 19 hours ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

    Best to have PIRs facing into the room away from the windows where possible.

    So ideally need to be in the opposite corners, but imagine it would be fine.

    Thanks. I'll keep that in mind for the new PIRs. Unfortunately it'll be difficult to move the old ones because of the house layout (back part of the house is an an extension). But having said that, I've not had an issues in the last 10years with them.

  10. Hi.

      I'd like to replace an old 4 zone alarm system (ADE Concept). I'm quite comeptent at wiring and have a background in IT so OK with reading manuals and programming. Most of the wiring is already in place but I'll have to lay down wiring for a couple of extra PIR sensors. The layout is shown:
    http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/topic/40103-pir-placement-advise/

     

    I was looking at the following kit:

    1 x Texecom Premier Elite 24 (metal) Control Panel CAA-0004)
    1 x Premier LCDL Keypad Display (DBC-0001) 
    1 x TEXECOM PREMIER ELITE COM-WIFI SMA WITH AERIAL (CEK-0002)
    6 x Texecom MIRAGE DT PETWISE  (ADB-0001)   
    1 x Texecom Premier Elite Odyssey 3 (ODY3) Bell (Metal)

    Plus wiring, a couple of contacts and a battery. I like the idea of being able to connect to the alarm from my computer and the phone app.

    Pricing this up from the internet it comes to about £420. Is this the best kit in this price range or can I do better?

    Also, I elected to go for the DT PIRs because they're supposed to be more reliable in terms of false alarms... are they an overkill?

    Thanks for any advice provided.

     

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