Mark02
-
Posts
60 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Mark02
-
-
its not so easy to accidental lock the panel on the premier (not impossible though).
looks like its covered. the gsm com just make sure you have a very good signal.
Thanks
Yes I have a spare O2 sim i can use which I get 4g indoors so all good.
-
Looks good to me.
Rulland .... Mind you it looked good the first time LOL -
OK so gathered my thoughts, listened to everyone's advice (and piss taking)
and finally got a plan together.So current situation is I have the excel unit on the wall and it's cream cracked. Everything else is fine.
Shopping list:
1 x Premier Elite 24 panel (same box, use same holes etc. Straight swap the whole box)
1 x Premier Elite surface mount keypad to suit above. (Nice shiny one)
2 new door contacts with the resistors already in them. I think somebody said the SC517's (which have the 2k2 and 4k7 options)
2 x Exodus OH optical/heat sensors (may as well fit them while I'm at it)
Pack of keyfobs
Back to the drawing board plan
Change the 2 door contacts over
Remove resistors from Pir's and use J3 and J4 options for 2k2 and 4k7
Wire front door contact and utility room pir into available keypad zones (less than 8ft apart and saves two wire drops from prem 24 on floor above and free's up 2 zones in box)
2 other zones (1 contact and one pir) into Z1 and Z2 within main box
2 other zones for heat/smoke detectors (24hr fire zones)
Once all the wiring is done CAREFULLY PROGRAM UP BEING CAREFUL HOW I TYPE THINGS IN
Also toying with getting a ComGSM unit.
Flat out at work so I have till end of month to read install manual a few times to make sure I don't **** anything up this time.
-
The kits can be cost effective if you don't mind the stuff that comes with it.
I am not keen on the Texecom sensors personally, so would buy the panel, keypad and tags separately.
Us in the trade here will buy from a wholesalers or trade counter, so maybe we are not the best to ask and your favourite search engine is your friend there.
The last picture looks like a flush keypad so maybe avoid if your not planning on chiseling a huge hole in the wall.
No it's a surface mount. I did actually work out they do either and wondered how much work would be involved fitting a flush mount. I had visions of waving at the neighbours before filling the whole with the keypad LOL
This is a better pic of the one above
-
Or the other option is this and get fobs later which I presume I can add at any time.
-
@ Secureiam Yes I think I have locked in error tbh. Hands up to that one I think. The bottom line is I am a diy installer, and if you could see my install it is very tidy. Not a cable in sight, zones have colour coded cable ties (blue = Z1, green = Z2, double green = keypad etc etc) so considering I have never fitted one before, I am quite happy apart from the fact it looks like I have managed to lock the pcb up and now need to rectify via spending more money. (not an issue, it's just money).
I have listened to all the advice given and without it I would never have got my head around the eol way of wiring in, which I think I have grasped now.
YES I should have purchased a different panel in the first place but at the start of this topic I had already purchased it (very cheap) so had to go with what I had.
In hind sight maybe I should have posted on here first and asked for advice before buying, stating my budget etc, but isn't hind sight a wonderful thing.
@ Sixwheeledbeast. Yes I am looking at something like in the link below and I intent on just swapping the whole cab over. I know the kit below has extras I don't need but it will give me spare pir's in case I ever need to replace or add one. It comes with the prox keypad (which I know I need to swap) and 5 fobs which thinking about it would be better for my teenage girls and will save them remembering pins.
I only have 2 door contacts and two pir's wired. The contacts are easy enough to open up and swap resistors and the pir's have the correct jump pins I can use (2k2 and 4k7) and then simply remove the resistors I have fitted for the excel unit (the jump pins are all removed at the moment obviously).
-
No thats fine id rather you didnt buy it from us
Thanks James ... Is that a new sales technique
Be aware that the elite/premier 24, essentially the same, will only give you 10 zones out of the box, 8 on board and 2 off the keypad, if you require more an expander will be needed.
IMHO the upgrade you are looking at offers the best in flexibility, btw I'm not affiliated to Tex in any way, just use their kit, on numerous occasions.
That's fine, I am only using 4. Just thinking expandability in the future.
Strangely, powered up last night and unit accepted boss code but not master user. I am going to get the premier but avoid buying from where I got the excel unit. Thinking back the packaging was very poor and when I had an enquiry about some other bits they were very very slow to respond. I am wondering if they have sent me a dodgy/recon or used unit.
-
On 07/03/2015 at 21:05, Rulland said:
Iirc you can stipulate the values of resistors you are using, if this is the case then you can use what you have painstakingly fitted, if not the elite norm is 4k7 and 2k2, so you would just have to swap out what you have at the moment, note, the elite is quite a massive step up from the R8+/Excel as far as progging goes.
I think I have learnt a really good lesson so far and hold my hands up to maybe trying to rush through the programming which is unusual for me, I am normally quite methodical at work when programming our machinery. Hey Ho ... Your all safe in the knowledge I'll never take this up for a living LOL.
Rulland, swapping out my current resistors isn't a problem, I can easily do that if needed. I think I just need to slow down when I'm near the keypad.
I know a few of you are on the SW forum so no offence not picking one of your kits but I have just found this which also gives me the prox keypad and fobs etc. I think it's a good price worth paying. Plus it will give me some extra pir's. Not sure if the comms board will be any good to me. If I went down the communicator route I would rather have a gsm unit which I believe the elite 24 can connect to,
Texecom Premier Elite 24 Control Panel Poly - Security Warehouse
-
If you go prem elite route, you will need a keypad to suit, the one you have won't work.
Cool. what about the wiring I have installed with eol resistors. Will I need to change the way everything is wired. ?
This isn't a problem because take my door contacts for example which are wired with only two wires I have left about 2ft of cable tucked away so if needed I can pull it through to get back to the 6 core I have used. Actually, only the 2 door contact are like this, everything else have 6 wires intact within the detectors, sounders etc as I have doubled up power wires as advised.
-
Have you got a pic of the PCB you can post.
This is the current PCB. Engineer is defo locked .... I've tried everything.
Bloody annoyed with myself more than the extra cost. The £45 for a new unit is nothing, just wanted it up and running this weekend while I had time.
Not worried if I have to swap the whole box over, the room is getting decorated after anyway.
If I go down this route I need to know if my veritas LCD keypad will work or do I need to get a new one of them also.
-
It will lock out the engineer 'if' the engineer code is not known. Its easy to misskey a code or get the sequence wrong. If you have done this your panel is im afraid scrap.
Yeah was just reading somewhere else about this. Not an issue I am going to get upset about as I have several options available (I think) seeing as I got the system so cheap in the first place.
The way I see it I can:
A - Replace the PCB which I can get for about £25
B - Replace the panel except go for something better. I like the texecom and being as I have already screwed it to the wall and wired everything at least it SHOULD be straight forward.
Quick question (well two actually) taking that I have managed to kill the pcb, would you recommend just option A or my more preferred option B. If B what are the Premier Elite 24 polymer panels like and will they slot straight into my wiring set up and LCD keypad? I can pick one up for about £45
-
Well it does sound like you have inadvertently changed the engineer code and locked it
Not disagreeing James. But I had default user and boss codes (obviously) which I was testing system with and I had wrote down new codes for everyone in house ready to put in when I was ready, but had not got that far yet.
Even if I had of changed a code it would have only been to the ones I wrote down, none of which are working. The only thing that will work is the default master user as per manual.
If I had de-selected "Unlock engineer code" (set to off) am I right in saying it just locks the code to what ever it was at the time and then will not reset when system is powered down and spring pressed 3 times? If so then the default "should" work or one of the codes I had wrote down. It won't lock the engineer out completely will it?
-
Success (sort of) everything worked fine, initialised power (battery first, walk/siren tests etc) then set up zones (types) entry/exit times, EOL options.
Came out of program mode, set alarm, worked fine, tested all detectors in armed mode .... all fine.
RIGHT .... Then entered engineer code to flick through programs to set users etc ..... will not accept code which it did on first power up. Will now only accept master user code. if I enter program mode and try to enter option (50 for example) I get a single dull tone of any option I enter. I can only go through minimum options using up/down arrows. (code types, code sets, walk tests etc).
Before anyone says it, I HAVE NOT TOUCHED ENGINEER CODE LOCK OPTION, and even if I had I certainly have not changed any codes yet, not even master user, everything is set to default codes.
So, I have powered down system, powered up on battery only and pressed lid tamper 3 times to reset to default. This has not worked. When I connect the battery the display (LCD) show FULL SET 123*****P and it will only accept default master user code to unset system
When I look through user types most are null, it skips user 2 (boss).
I thought I was doing really well for a complete novice . Now feel like a complete nob (there ..... I said it for you all).
-
If you have an LED keypad and the option is available you have two choices 1 or 2, I cant remember which way round it is, it is a recently added function and the manual may well not be up to date.
I have the LCD keypad. All wired up now and ready for powering up and testing tomorrow.
Will post to ask for lots of help when it all goes pete tong
-
thought the veritas could use 4k7 and 2k2 resistors by changing the option in menu 30 on the new panels but last i heard you needed the led keypad to access menu 30 and the lcd would be updated at some point.
The aux tamper as far as I am aware doesn't use the the eol, but a zone programed as tamper would.
you should be able to disable the zones not in use menu 48- 50 ish for the full set would need the quick guide to refresh my memory, with the zones disabled you don't need to link the zones out at all.
I have only bench tested it so far. Slowly installing evenings/weekends so not gone through options fully via keypad yet BUT my install manual does not show an option 30. Jumps straight from 29 to 31.
When I set it up quick on a bench test I disabled zones and it was fine (after I remembered to link out tamp circuit LOL)
-
Yes it's a pyronix.
-
Not if you not using an eol circuit to tamper it
So just wire it as per the manual above and if so do I use the pcm tamper cicuit?
Pcb even
-
Just think the twin alert will only be pulling oower if the siren goes off. Manual dosn't state standby current but I would have though next to nothing.
-
Don't think I'll be far off that james to be fair. Do you think that twin alert above will need resistors?
-
Seems like your panel isn't big enough for all that kit.
Also the panel needs to be located in a room or cupboard at approximately normal room temperature. So no siting in a loft or boiler cupboard.
Ideally spur needs to be adjacent panel so you can isolate it, or on it's own way.
Also wouldn't normally bother with contacts on internal doors if PIR adjacent.
The panel has 8 zones (tbh I don't think I need all of them). I've check current pull on twin alert and that's fine on the board. The panel is actually in the hallway which is very easy to get to (service/maintenance etc) and the spur is about 4 ft away inside cupboard.
I decided to use contact on door as it's a very small and tight hallway and I don't think the pir would work properly and the junk room has a window. I was going to put pir in the room but it can get quite a few draughts in there. Not bothered about the junk, just using that room window as access to rest of house although the door is always locked.
Here is the wiring diagram for the twin alert which I will need to work out what changes to this I need to make for EOL.
The main alarm in this unit pulls 160Ma and the board can handle 1amp so I could add more of these potentially. (my external bell if I fit it pulls 240Ma).
-
Quick pic of control box with rough plan of layout.
-
yeah strange even how resistor colour code used any places but switch to optics then they used a diff code , even cat5 is diff to resistor code and other codes lol
Most of our machines we work on run canbus and up to five controller pcb's. Some machines have one canbus while a few have up to 4.
The bigger machines now have pcb's with multiple Sfet's and many limit switches which are configured in pairs of 1 x operational and 1 x safety.
The JLG's have secondary guarding which is designed to stop the operater elevating himself into a roof or object above him, if he does a pressure bar is activated and the machine reverses itself down by about a foot to stop crushing.
All this technology just to get somebody up X amount of feet to change a light bulb
-
I am gutted its too small to read
but I think if i could read it i would be lost on what pcon 64 ment Ha Ha ..... Dunno if I'm totally sure LOL
-
Out of curiosity why didnt you use red/ black for power?
Because in the installation manual green and white are shown as power while red/black are alarm circuits (to zones) so I decided to stick to those colours so if I ever have to reference back to installation book it all matched up. I see your point though.
It don't seem right does it LOL
Rulland .... Mind you it looked good the first time LOL 
and finally got a plan together.
but I think if i could read it i would be lost on what pcon 64 ment 
Veritas Excel New Install - Eol Question
in !!..DIY Installers..!!
Posted · Edited by sixwheeledbeast
removed link