buzzer

I went to see a mate a while ago… He proudly showed me his new shed… which he had partly wired up himself… It was a second hand shed and someone had already fitted it with a double socket on each wall. When I looked, he had… Used 2.5 twin and earth to wire it in which had a 13 amp plug on BOTH ends (to be clear, the end in the house AND in the shed has a plug on) The cable went through the double house wall; un protected, and was plugged into a socket on the wall. The cable was clipped to an outside wall for 5 meters, then along the TOP of a wall for another 2 meters, along the side of 3 wooden fence panels for 4 meters, and finally, across to the shed in mid-air at a height of 1.5 meters, for 4 meters, unsupported! Once in the shed he had put a plug on the end of the cable and had it plugged into one of the sockets! I asked him why he had not wired it in to one of the sockets directly and he said “he was not good with electrics” no kidding! When asked why he had used twin and earth, he said “that’s what the man at B&Q said to use” Back on subject… I noted the comments about security and to be honest, the motor on its own holding the door closed was not secure. I have therefore modified the mechanism so that before the motor pulls the door up, it pulls a cable which works two BIG side latches. I know they do a latching kit, but this is a none standard fitment as the motor is set well to one side of the door as I have a hoist in the middle of the garage. I didn’t want to reduce the headroom above it. Here is a clip of how it works… Thanks again for the advice guys.

well.... Its infuriating when you fix something... but don't know why! I changed the PIR for an old one I had and it works now! not sure what it was... I take the point on the security issue... However, the layout is such that the point of entry is very unlikely to be the up and over door, and if it was they would have to overcome the mechanism and force the door right the way back to bridge out the contacts. I am happy with the risk. Thanks guys, first time I have used this forum, big thumbs up from me.

With the door in the open position, the contacts are closed )checked with a meter... the two wires from the contacts are across the PIR contacts and without moving the door, I still get an alarm trigger off the PIR when I walk in! I just cant understand it... just off to try a short wire to bridge the PIR contacts.... and take the contacts and wiring out of the loop.... just to see...

yes, I still get an alarm at the panel! its an Accenta / Optima panel not sure of the PIR make though...

the magnetic contacts are placed on the up and over door, so when the door is fully OPEN and at rest, the magnetic contacts are CLOSED. So to me I have continuity in the circuit, yet the PIR still triggers the alarm! I am sure its not wired into the tamper... Happy to discuss other options, and thanks for the advice so far!

Hi, yes there are two other doors to the garage. not sure what you mean about a controller and shunt relay though!

I have just installed an electric garage door opener. My plan was to fit a magnetic contact onto the alarm circuit so that when the garage door went up, it closed the contacts on a magnetic switch (patio door type, heavy duty) which was wired in parallel with the PIR at the back of the garage.. I could than park the car, close the garage, and go into the house to switch the alarm off. I have done this, but what I have found is that although the contacts on the magnetic reed switch are closed, the PIR still triggers the alarm! Any suggestions how I overcome this? I have checked the continuity of the wiring and the switch with an Ohm meter and all is OK… it’s as if the alarm panel is still somehow sensing the PIR trigger, even though the magnetic contact is wired into the circuit and closed? Any help would be appreciated!