Paul P
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Posts posted by Paul P
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Eco mode is to stop you making the battery flat, It maybe should be called wally mode
but its not fool proofYep we know that, it would be nice to be able to listen to the radio for half an hour without starting the engine. And have interia lights that will stay on for more than 30 seconds on a bad day.
Some one has lost the plot on how vans are used.
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Never ectched a pcb, but used strip board in the past. Trouble is most stuff can be found ready built now for next to nothing so not worth the trouble of build it your self.
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Looking at the schematic from earlier it looks like it just boosts the voltage up and puts it through a regulator. Then put a diode in series to drop it a little and stop reverse current flow.
The question is we will have 14v ish from the cigarette lighter socket when the engine is running so can you just use the diode to stop reverse current flow and also drop the voltage a bit so as not to cook the 7ah battery.
Also is there an easy way to stop it charging when the 7ah battery is full. All the kits I have seen seems to be for the larger leisure batteries.
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I am up for the 7ah battery solution, I have a pergot van and all it want to do is stop you using electric to power anything. It goes into Eco mode so you can only have about 30 seconds of light when you open the back doors. What twit thought that was good on a van.
I like the cigarette lighter solution so I can't be blamed it the electrics goes tits up.
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So you don't like the idea.
I have seen the hager things but did not like the high current they pull to trip.
Looks like it will be the permanently energised contactor then.
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It was more of a small venues that have mobile disco,s. village halls and wedding venue.
I was wondering how much of a no no was putting a rcd on the circuit and unbalancing the coil via a suitable resistor, a 8k one connected between Live output and Neutral input would give 30mA enough to trip the RCD. After all that is all the test button does.
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Used To use Something like this in austrailia for fishing up the cavity walls so it can't be that new. Did work a treat though. Never saw one rolled up as they were already on the van when I got it.
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How about the old fashioned closed loop wound though it so,if the wire is broken the alarm goes off. We had to do some aircon units years ago because the first lot got stolen. Keep it simple.
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I have to kill the supply to some music equipment when the fire alarm goes off. Previously I have achieved this with a contactor and 24v relay from the aux contacts on the fire panel.
I have not had to do one for several years and was wondering if there is a ready built solution available now a days.
I need to switch 30 amps @ 240v
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If it was redcare clasic I don't think it needs to be filtered. The old adsl did not but i am a bit rusty on fibre.
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Had this one i was accesung mine was due to a school boy error selecting a premIor panel when it was the elite model. Double check software version of the control panel.
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Ive found a meter, metrel ML3000 that seems to fit the bill. Just over £400, bargain, might buy 2!
I agree with mr happy, we had 4 of them and had to give up and replace the lot you could not trust the readings.
Replaced them with kewtech but always away for repair.
Would not touch anything but a megger now.
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We can only wish, ..... Cert charges are a farse
These are free to use, you can also make your own like you do for alarms
The sample ones in the regs are not copy right I think you will find.
http://electrical.theiet.org/wiring-regulations/forms/2008-amd1-forms.cfm
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I think you'll find your replies somewhat contradictory and still making assumptions.
Partition/studded wall?
Back box tight or loose? Irrelevant due to fixings
Rawlplugs? you say it is irrelevant due to wall not being conductive - yet you said earlier, "...if the socket was screwed to the wall the metal box would of been earthed."
I think we have a terminology problem between us, I can't be asked and give up. You win.
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I wasn't decorating. The decorator was decorating. I just slackened the sockets so he could paper behind them.
Oh that could be nasty.
"Customer kills decorator by removing socket from wall."
Sorry Judge I just wanted my paper tucked behind it to make it look nice.
In this world of let's sue the ar55e of every one it so dodgy being helpful.
You assuming solid wall? - I ment screwed to the metal back box fixed to the wall thus the back box would of been earthed from the screws holding to the box.
Backbox secured tight? No one said it was loose.
Metal rawlplugs unlike the plastic ones everyone uses? Does this make a difference most wall are not very conductive?
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That's why I took it off. Decorating. Hadn't been an issue until then although reasonable chance a toddler could crawl round and touch the live screw as could my puddy cat.
I know this is not going to go down well, if the socket was screwed to the wall the metal box would of been earthed.
So did removing it cause the live to touch the box?
Should you turn off the circuit if removing the socket from the wall?
I know we don't but should you complain that you got a shock off something that should of been dead.
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The Sterling 10. Awful panel!
QFA we called them the **** 10.
The demo one in the office had the banner message changed to "i am a **** 10 turn me off"
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I would go for a supplier that will set up the routers for you.
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I hate wires under carpets but if run against the gripper on a short run can be ok ish. If it was floor boards they would be removed no problem. Chipboard on a new build if it was mine I would not be removing it
I would still not go down the wireless route. But my time does not cost me anything. Coving can hide cables well and can have holes cut in it and made good with a bit of time if you are practical.
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Is there any way you could get the builders sparks to wire it for a proper alarm, sorry I am old fashion and don't like wireless.
Then fit one once you move in?
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Maybe the SSIAB is missing a trick here and have a Gold status, it's only a name after all to jone blogs. They don't know NSI gold company's shuffle paper nicely.
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Does anybody know what happened to Regalsafe panels? They used to do the rs40,50,75,100,125,150 and possibly more that I cant remember. At the time it was a great panel if not a bit tricky to program...
They were purchase by cooper security. Scanie & Menvier to me.
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We also only install FAAC, Excellent service - expensive but worth it. Traing courses are also very good
Yes I agree been one of there courses but they are too friendly with the local competition.
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we've used them, they are ok. the underground hydraulic operators are good, we then went onto FAAC controllers because they have slow start/stop but they are more expensive.
Yes I must admit FAAC would be my choise but they are so fussy who they deal with and my boss has seen pound note signs. Just hoping no one was going to say total ****
Regards Paul
but its not fool proof
Cop?
in Members Lounge (Public)
Posted
Personally I would go for dynamic CCTV.
http://www.dynamic-cctv.com/