a_dad

Thanks everyone, we got it working on the bench. He was giggling away setting then triggering it by cracking open the keypad, then the bell box, then the panel then... Thank you so very much.

I apologize. Will do that in future.

I think there are resistor in the texecom Q20s. so I think I need to put resistors on the pirs, but where: looking in the back of my Q20s there are switches. one physical (don't think electrical at all) sets a physical plastic slider for pets versus normal (moves some lens cover or something?). there are 2 dip switches, one does led flash and one does 'pet'/'G2' (not sure what G2 is) and has an arrow pointing to the pet/normal mechanical, 'lens slider'. there is an electrical sliding switch, labelled EOL, and has 6 positions. next to each position there is notation in 2 columns, one labelled 'T' and one labelled 'A' sw. T. A. 1. O/C. O/C 2. 1k. 1k 3. 2k2. 4k7 - Texecom 4. 4k7. 6k8 5. 3k3. 3k3 6. 5k6. 5k6 are these inbuilt resistors? first column for tamper, second for alarm. This is all in the photo above. so to use this texecom q20 with the eaton ion10 main panel, I think I need maybe 3 or 4. - then I need to wire as FSL: from panel zone0 (first) to pir Alarm 'A' from pir alarm 'B' to pir tamper 'c' (tiny hop - what resistor?) from pir tamper 'D' to panel zone0 (second). my alarm options (manual) are 4k7, 1k0, 2k2 and 4k7 again. The ion10 kit comes with 2k2 and 4k7, for eol. the Q20 has as above options. I can only use 4k7 resistor eol if I set alarm to 4k7 (which makes the tamper 2k2. ) I can only uset the 2k2 EOL resistor if I set the alarm to 4k7, (no alarm 2k2 option). so I could use either eol resitor, as long as I set the right inbuild resitors on the q20 pirs. so there are 2 options. I will give that a go.

Oh, thanks too, those are helpful remarks.

Thanks that's helpful. Sorry about the long post.

After getting waylaid for a wee while (months), I got some time and budget to get a few parts. I got the 'Scantronic I-ON 10' with a keypad and the bell box `SDR-WEXT-00` The boy did really well for 2 plus hours cutting insulation and joining terminals where ever his dad pointed. Bonus: at the end there was a some flashing lights and nothing caught fire. By some measures, a success. By other measures, less so. We have one q20, one keypad, one bell box and one panel wired to mains, on a test bench so I can figure out what I am doing. Terminal labels are not immediately obvious, not sure what connect to what. I am aware I have no battery in the unit, see photo. I can't get it out of 'press address key on the keypad' mode, which is how it fires up. What works on youtube and blogs isn't working for us. when I get far enough: I have 8 pirs, instruction says I can only have 4 in star configuration wiring, they have to be in serial, so I would do 4 pairs, each pair in serial? I think it is going to be tricky to fit all the cables into the two 0V terminals and the two 12V terminals. Does anyone break that out into a separate wago or equivalent? instructions indicate shielding should be earthed in the main panel. Is there a typical way to do that - it is a sort of plasticized foil, does that electrically connect? There is an uninsulated wire bundle in the cable, is this an earth equivalent to the shielding, and would putting it into the panel earth count? on the panel main board there is - a single row 12 contact header labelled comms/con3, with contacts 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, LF, RR, 0V, 12V - looks like a connector in my desktop pc - a a dual row 2*10=20 contact header labelled con6, also looks like something in my desktop pc. - a 4 contact terminal labelled keypad, labelled TB5 (now fully connected tot he keypad - this was straight forward) - a 6 contact terminal labelled TB4, with contacts: OP1, OP2, OP3, TR (connected to 0v elsewhere - came like this), LS+, and LS- - big 4 contact terminal 2 are 12v and 0 are 0V, maybe everything terminates here? - a 9 pin terminal with 6 zone labels in pairs between adjacent triplets of terminals and - a 6 pin terminal with 4 zone labels in pairs betwen adjacent triplets of terminals. I can't find 'trig' or 'stb' on the panel for the bell box. Nothing is labelled tamper on the panel for the bell box. the manual says this: ` ## Detector Wiring ### 4-wire CC This uses a separate pair of wires for the alarm and tamper contacts. No end-of-line resistors are used. Selecting 4-wire CC normally halves the maximum number of wired zones that can connect to the i-on10. However, an ADP-10CC board can be fitted to convert the ten FSL zones to ten 4-wire CC zones. Without the board fitted, the control unit supports five 4-wire CC zones. If you are using an ADP-10CC board, select 2-wire FSL 2k2/4k7 as the wiring type.` so this means I have 10 zones, and 8 pirs, so I have to use only 2 wire connection for tamper and alarm per pir, since 4 wires per pir will only allow 5 sensors? (Zones and sensors are not the same, or are they? No -? because you might have 2 sensors on a big space but it is one zone... ? I am not really sure how to wire this. there are lost of 'jigsaw pieces' here. From what I've said what are the clangers? Special prize to anyone whose list of 'this is what you've done wrong' reaches triple figures. oh the green tape is either pinning down a 'panel open' tamper switch, or keeping extra electrical legs out of the way to stop shorting.

Thankyou again. Sorry mistook 'everything' to mean 'every-pir', but yes everything means everything!

Thanks everyone. Cable is run now. Looking to get bell, panel and box. 8 Wired Q20s, so not wedded to any manufacturer yet. Can I use my 8 core to the keypad? Can I use the 8 core to the bell box, or does it need a second power supply cable? Thanks again.

Oh thanks. I picked it since some legs will run past/near/briefly alongside mains cable. Reading about, I am getting location is key to minimising false positives. It can be tricky, however, to find a corner that is not pointing at windows, not pointing at hot things (stoves/ kettles) and not directly over radiators. My Rads are now heat pump rads, so seldom get to 48, usually upper limit is 40. Which is worse, over a rad, pointing at a rad, pointing at a window, or pointing at a stove/kettle? My front windows overlook my lightly trafficked road, if passing cars are an issue. My rads really are pretty luke-warm when on. (They are pretty good at heating, though, since they are giant and have a high water flow rate).

I now have 8 of Q20s and 100m shielded 8 core. I have one cable in.

I think that 'quad' means 2 sensors not 4, because a single pir sensor has 2 ir detectors, one pointed at the room and a second one not pointed at the room and the electronics pick up the difference between them, when there is a difference then it triggers. I bought one - the thumbnail sized sensor electronic component - without the big lens and case - about thirty years ago, and I guess the second one is just behind the first, or on it's back half. Having 2 as 'quad' means trigger both for positive detection. The sales bumf seem to freely interchange 'quad' and 'two sensors'. I can get the Texecom q20 here for £15.18 and here for £15.25. From here I can see the Bosch part number is ISC-BPQ2-W1 but seems (>£30) hard to get hold of or (>£20) sold out. The optex looks soon to be unavailable and >£20. So I am leaning to the texecom q20 as an available quad wired (no microwave) pir. Do you have to get the bell box of the brand or are bell boxes interchangeable too? Thank you for all your time so far.

Oh that is amazing, thanks so much. Following on then: 1. If by some quirk of chance this actually works on the table with 2 cheap sensors, I may fit it but with more&better sensors. This is to stop the wife demanding we do not use the alarm from false positives, she really does not want to upset the neighbours. I read some installers only fit optex for less false positives, but some say you do not need +microwave on pirs, and that dual or quad pir is better for domestic low false pos rate, so both are equally true? 2. And also any wired sensor will fit any wired panel - so you could use optex with ...? 3. Connect with Home Assistant you say? So I could use the PIRs to get presence detection and control lighting? In this case are the 360 degree PIRs appropriate to use? Would they work for intrusion detection, or are they really best just for lighting control? I get that you do not want to point AT windows as passing cars, sunlight or wildlife (a deer I heard) might set it off, so the corner PIRs point towards doors and PAST windows. So do 360 ones look down rather than side to the walls, and not set off by what is outside the windows? Thank you again

Hi, I would love to buy a few parts and mess about with them on my kitchen table. No particular goal in mind. I joke. Mostly. My son (autistic) and I am have been playing around with arduino and built a working alarm for his sister's dolls house. He is thrilled, she is annoyed and I am happy I got him off his Nintendo switch for a few hours. He has correctly noticed we do not have a real one, but do have 2 old bell boxes on the side of the house. He wants to fit a 'real one' and made me go up a ladder to look at the boxes. There was a central radio panel but never used it in the 11 years we've been here (owner), never had an attempted break in. I think the central panel got knocked off the wall in some redecoration and not put back. Wife is not really sure we need an alarm, but I have seen the local break in rates are no different to the national rates. Recent house repipe means all the boards are up and I can run cables. Even if I fit no pirs or panel or sounder, now is a good opportunity to run some cables. Got quotes for wired + bells only but all came back for 'wireless'. I appreciate running cables (having done it) is a ghastly job, so I felt they probably did not want the work, even though I said I could run the cables. I appreciate that a real system is **nothing like** arduino, but if I end up with a pile of bits in a box and kept the boy of his screens for a few hours here and there, then goal achieved. When you put the floorboards opportunity next to 'no alarm' situation next to the son's interest, the solution really really does look like purchasing an alarm and running cables. What would you do differently, how can you advise: 1. I run cable and put the floor boards/carpet back (I could do with reducing the nag factor right now), leave the cables hanging out to attach later. Would you run 6 core to each pir, or 3 pirs off one 8 core? 2. Probably thinking texecom since reasonable DIY support and not too exp, maybe anything in veritas range (they all seem the same? are they the same?) 3. If you get texecom, get the wintex software - just easier, Looks like it is £5. Also says premier elite, not veritas. Veritas does not need wintex, veritas kits with the keypad state this is the programming tool no need for wintex? Thank you for reading.

Hi, I am not a professional installer, neither am I an electrician. I am a middle aged dad with a foot in the world of engineering, and a propensity to disassemble things out of curiousity. Thanks for putting this forum together, the information shared publicly is very helpful. Regards