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Litch90

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Posts posted by Litch90

  1. 21 hours ago, norman said:

    My take is, (without reading all the above) if it's residential only and not a requirement (new build etc) then anything you add will be better than nothing, whether it be compliant with BS or wired in string. I have both smoke/heat and Co on my home alarm (wired in 8 core and wireless) and they function better than s/a imo.

    Off the

     

    20 hours ago, Simlec said:

    Sounders are the biggest problem after the 72h standby. Also all detection and sounder circuits need to be monitored.   

    Could you explain the regs please? I'm familiar with 5879.. but not to your level. Whats it this 72 hour standy you mentioned? Thank you

  2. 23 hours ago, andy™ said:

     

    grade D can be connected to their own dedicated circuit or a regularly used lighting circuit

     

    my preference is with the lights, more so because if there is a fault its usually noticed sooner and less likely to be ignored and left unfixed, but one drawback is its probably more likely to trip in the first place due to it being used for other purposes. considering both sides, id say overall risk of it being left unfixed is less if its on with the lights

    Agreed, in theory that one SD is not really going to blow a 13 amp fuse in the FCU is it.

    Unfortunately it couldn't have its own independent circuit at this stage as i've already wired the property. Lack of planning i guess.

  3. On 7 January 2017 at 2:59 PM, MrHappy said:

    Only a proper fire alarm or interlinked smokes met with building regs,

     

    If you want smokes on intruder alarm I buy Texecom ones however I have used S65 with the relay base in the past

    Part number for the Texecom units? thanks mr h 

  4. 1 minute ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

    We didn't know what the property was from the OP.

    Yes, I have serviced many a fire alarm in domestic properties, however all have been detached properties of various sizes.

     

    Mr. H hits the nail on the head as usual, should really be mains interlinked.

    Mains interlinked would be installed with 3C&E mains cable.

     

    Ideally on a dedicated circuit and not a spur of another?

  5. 3 hours ago, MrHappy said:


    A proper fire alarm has fire fire resistant cabling

     

    Mains interlinked has a battery in each device,

     

    An intruder alarm has combustible cable & a sounder separate from the sensor, I think its bad idea to use an intruder alarm for life safety

     

    If i got hold of some FP200  what would you say the best way to install a device would be? From a mains perspective...

     

     

  6. 3 hours ago, MrHappy said:


    A proper fire alarm has fire fire resistant cabling

     

    Mains interlinked has a battery in each device,

     

    An intruder alarm has combustible cable & a sounder separate from the sensor, I think its bad idea to use an intruder alarm for life safety

     

    So just stick with a standard battery powered device??

  7. Would this assembly work? I want my intentions scrutinised by the pro's before I carry out any installation.

     

    Apollo 65 Smoke detector wired to Galaxy G2 complete with resistors, Zone programmed as Fire then equally an output (1001) programmed as Fire with a internal sounder wired into it (I use Pyronix Twin Alert) .

     

    Smoke present.... Panel sees a fire activation so my sounder (in theory) will alert myself/the occupants?

     

    Do you gents recommend any particular type of SD detector? Just using Apollo as an example.

     

    Thank you

     

  8. On 7 November 2016 at 10:49 PM, GalaxyGuy said:

    Sold about 50 G2's  in the last 12 months to self installers and 5 fitted myself. No fails from those. Previous year only one damaged by customer during install.

     

    The new panels go for around £30 on ebay and despite the scare stories, they are not stolen or old kit, they are new split kits. Just replace the panel pcb. 

    All sorted now chaps, removed the 12 and whacked a 44 in there which is overkill for my house.. but it works :rolleyes:

     

    Clearly a faulty G2-12 PCB I bought.

     

     

  9. 10 hours ago, GalaxyGuy said:

    I agree that the new ADT based parts may be of suspect origin, but they are easily identified by the revision -36 for ADT instead of -01 for the OEM. I always advise against ADT parts.

     

    I suppose the 'splitting kits' is akin to the corner shop splitting a multipack and would be frowned upon by the manufacturer.

     

    Op, have you tried contacting the original seller to get the board swapped out ? If you bought from Source security, I'm pretty sure he will send a replacement to get you sorted out. Also, what's the date code on the heatsink of the voltage regulator ?

     

    Rating the Galaxy panels quality  and design wise, the Dimension (as per older G3 design) panel is at the top, with very good PSU and power circuit design. The G2 is next and fits very well in the domestic for a basic system. Lastly, the Flex, which fails in my book for its poor power supply, power circuit and pathetic time to boot.

     

    Ebay has its place and has a massive reach compared with traditional routes. Sellers are paying a whopping 13% of the total transaction cost (including postage) for that reach. The majority of sellers are genuine, but do your homework, check all feedback before buying and contact the seller before buying and if something goes wrong.

     

    Thanks galaxy.. I've contacted OS on eBay. Can't see him sending a replacement though? This was a transaction back in Feb15.. he's just going to claim 'why did you not bring the issue up as soon as you received the panel instead of waiting all this time..' 

     

    Anyway i've been looking at your g2 44's your selling.. Think I'm getting one of those with an LCE module :rolleyes:

  10. 17 hours ago, GalaxyGuy said:

    Sold about 50 G2's  in the last 12 months to self installers and 5 fitted myself. No fails from those. Previous year only one damaged by customer during install.

     

    The new panels go for around £30 on ebay and despite the scare stories, they are not stolen or old kit, they are new split kits. Just replace the panel pcb. 

     

  11. On 6 November 2016 at 6:26 PM, GalaxyGuy said:

    No, it's not common. I've dealt with 100's of G2's and only seen damage due to lightning and an installers screwdriver spinning across the pcb and ripping some passives off near the voltage regulator (big heatsink).

     

    Are you the same 'galaxy guy' selling the g2-44's on ebay?

  12. 21 hours ago, al-yeti said:

    yes but mr Galaxy how many have you installed recently?

     

    i have a couple here with same issue, its pcb , bin it , buy a g2-20 while your at it 

     

    is your system wired or wireless or both?

    Thanks Al i was considering the G2-20.., It is entirely wired atm Al but I will be adding RF portal soon.

     

     

    20 hours ago, james.wilson said:

    why does anyone buy security gear from ebay? I get old mobile phones etc but serious stuff.. really?

    Naivety maybe? Seemed like a decent deal for a good make of panel.. In future might pay to just buy by the book.. 

  13. 12 hours ago, datadiffusion said:

    Its true that the 'buyer is always right' must be a godsend for idiots that f**k up panels and say they arrived 'broken'...

    Trouble is.. whats to stop some philistine put faulty PCB in new enclosures and sell them for 30/40 quid a pop?

     

    Its my own fault I should probably know better than to trust eBay.. Its not broken as such, just won't charge any batteries.

  14. 1 hour ago, GalaxyGuy said:

    No, it's not common. I've dealt with 100's of G2's and only seen damage due to lightning and an installers screwdriver spinning across the pcb and ripping some passives off near the voltage regulator (big heatsink).

     

    So where do I go from here do you think? New PCB?

  15. 2 minutes ago, abbz said:

    You have got 240v going to panel and not just running it off battery. 

    Not that much of an amateur haha.. I've got it running on both.. AC & battery has been plugged onto board.. Three YUASA's have completely discharged.

    On 1 November 2016 at 9:54 PM, james.wilson said:

    where did you get the yuasa?

    Bought a new one by the book brand new.. no hooky stuff. Same result, battery completely discharged. Thoughts? New panel?

  16. So my brand new YUASA (less than 24 hours old) has gone completely flat.. Panel has absolutely engulfed three batteries.

     

    Is this common on the G2? I'm now completely vigilant about buying another G2.. this was allegedly new when I bought it off eBay.

     

    Seller had great selling history also.

     

    Is my next move to buy a new panel? Cant see anything I can physically do to rectify this charging issue.

     

    -_-

  17. 1 minute ago, datadiffusion said:

    Was it new?

     

    Was it sold as new?

    Rest assured it was spotless fully boxed when I received it.. complete wit u'gide resistors (the usual bundle)

     

    No marks or evidence of having been previously used.. If it was they did a convincing job of making it look brand new

    2 minutes ago, james.wilson said:

    where did you get the yuasa?

    It fell onto the back of my car ..

     

    not purchased directly from a store.. maybe this next one I will ;)

  18. 7 minutes ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

    Yep if the charging rate is low unless you are capable of diagnosing the issue with the charging circuit. Most installers would replace and wouldn't get involved with component level stuff.

     

    If there's voltage then the battery fuse will be fine?

     

    ACT tester could be faulty, batteries could be a faulty batch, I would definitely be sure to test everything before replacing the panel.

    To the batteries charge and then pass on another panel? You have proven the battery and the tester then

     

    For the price of the G2-12 its probably just worth maybe replacing you reckon? picked it up for a steal.. about 30 pounds off ebay.

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