jkno

I completely agree with you, it's a single story detached garage so anything in there is accessible and easy to disable. I had the soundbomb left over from years ago so it didn't hurt to stick it in a corner to throw out 112db at the same time as the main sounder. It would take seconds to disable but it's also a distraction/unexpected to a would be intruder.

This is the bit where I'm struggling. Mimic is perfect in terms of the scenario (and it would be easy to trigger a physical output), but I can't work out how to turn the Mimic into a reported com via the COM-IP/ARC (Configured using SIA codes). Without the 24 hour or using AreaB (separate arm/disarm) I can't figure out how to get the alarm to communicate zone active.

It’s been expanded, had panel/sounder battery replacements and a new PSU over the years but that’s part of general maintenance. I just haven’t touched the com-ip since. The sound bomb is pretty pathetic but to create a decent amount of deterring noise inside a small space (garage) while the main sounder is doing it’s job, it’s one more thing to deter; a master blaster is overkill for this and it would be me or the other half that would be on the end of it than a would be thief. I’ve not seen any alternatives such as a mini sounder. The sound bomb is on one of the outputs. For the config I’m looking at it’s purely notification of the garage being opened when we’re in the house and the alarm is unset. The ideal/long term is a roller shutter door, set the garage to Area B and use an output to prevent the door being opened without unsetting the alarm to prevent FA. But for now, just knowing the sensors has been triggered beyond chime is the next best option.

I’ll need to check in the morning how the com-ip is setup. I haven’t touched it for 9 years (it’s nice when things just work) Would zone mimic be via a custom output? I’ve got system outputs configured for sound bombs and I’m confident on the general premise. It’s getting a distinguishable message sent when it’s activated that I’m drawing a blank.

I'm running a Texecom Premier Elite 24 that I've had installed for 9 years and it's been a brilliant setup (apart from the occasional spider induced FA or washing setting off external sensors). I'm aiming for a configuration on one of the zones that I'm not sure is possible or requires some left field thinking with the ARC notifications on the COM-IP module. The alarm is currently setup and functioning exactly as intended with push and email notifications to myself via the ARC. What I'm after is a zone active notification when the alarm is unarmed on a specific zone. The zone (garage) has a duel tech PIR: I want to be notified when the zone is activated in both an armed and unarmed state; but to only trigger the alarm itself from an armed state. I considered setting it up as Area B that is currently not in use, but I can guarantee I'd set it off by forgetting. The best I've got at the moment is enabling chime 3 on the zone. Is what I'm aiming for even possible?

Texecom have confirmed it's a faulty zone. Need to get a replacement board, luckily it's only 6 weeks old so should be covered under warranty. Not looking forward to taking it all apart and putting a new one in. Just glad I have all the config in Wintex.

Getting my head around the initial install took a lot of reading. I did it for the challenge with something a bit more physical/real being a programmer by trade. If I wanted a truly secure system I would always get someone in who really knows what they're doing. Plan is to setup monitoring, sms/email alerts. I mainly wanted the fire alarms monitored, I'd rather be able to react and have a neighbour/family check before a passer by sees flames/smoke coming from my home and phones the fire service. I'll try a full power down/factory reset just incase it just needs a kick when it's a more sociable hour. Sure the neighbours won't appreciate the sounder going off at this time when it picks up the panel tamper.

It's not picking up the 2.2k resistor just registering a fault with >100k oms. The zone has been "Not Active" since install so I can't say whether it ever worked, the knight contact is working 100% now it's in Zone 6. I hadn't made the decision on what contact to use on Entry 1 when I setup the system so just used Zone 2 PIR as the entry/exit on timer.

Just to remove any confusion all zones are FSL the contact circuit I want on zone 1 registers at 2.2 secure 6.9 active. As part of my investigation after ruling out any fault at the contact or circuit I remove the circuit from the zone, bridged and reprogrammed as always closed. The zone isn't registering the bridge and thinks its open/active. I'll try a 2.2 resistor just to confirm but think it will be futile because the contact circuit was confirmed with the multimeter at 2.2 and a basic bridge on always closed isn't registered meaning something isn't right on the zone.

I didn't wire a resistor over over the terminals but did confirm the circuit was the correct resistance with the multimeter. I also wired a bridge over and switched it to an always closed circuit which it was registering as open (active). I've emailed texecom I expect it's an replacement board job.

Yep it's sent to Double Pole/EOL like all the other active zones. It doesn't seem to register the bridge I've put in whether it's open or closed. I've stuck the multi meter across zone (no circuit wired up) and it registers as an open/broken circuit.

I moved the circuit to zone 6 and it works fine.

I've finally gotten round to putting the recessed door contact (Knight A51MULTI G2) for the entry/exit rather than using the hallway PIR. I wired everything up and re-enabled zone 1 but it was displaying tamper. So I stripped back the contact and tested all the resistances 2.2 secure, 6.9 active, 1/0 tamper. I also checked the resistances at the alarm box to make sure I didn't have a break in the cable. To confirm I linked the contact circuit into Zone 6 which was spare and wintex diagnostics registers 2.2 secure (healthy). Finally to confirm Zone 1 I bridged and programmed zone 1 to always closed which returned an active state (unhealthy) Does it sound like Zone 1 is dead and I need to replace the board or could it be a common faults that can be rectified without a board replacement?