efficient_systems

I did say losing the strobe is the safer option, but have had reason to lose the tamper instead, not every situation is the same. On a system with no dialler and no internal bombs the only functionality lost is the event log, if the strobe is needed for some reason it is technically possible, this could be useful for someone.

Hi again, Sorry for the late reply, I need to set up notifications for replies! Before going any further, do a walk test to make sure these sensors are actually on separate zones, it sounds like they could be linked into the same zone. If it is setup as you said then the next thing to try is disconnecting the sensors and using a wire to short/open the zones to test manually, this will eliminate any wiring faults and confirm a panel fault (very rare on these). C

This panel has 3 programmes, each programme carries a zone type map, make sure the zone type is set correctly for all programmes you are using.

I didn't compare it, just pointing out that I have seen this fault on a different device. All electronics are comprised of similar components, often expensive devices carry the same components as cheap stuff, it can be useful from a diagnostic POV.

Dependant on the panel you are using (i.e. not class 2), where there are only 4 cables available and the customer has insisted on the strobe working, I have used the box in SCB mode and forgone the tamper facility, the obvious issue here is that pulling the bell off the wall won't alert the panel. This is only a showstopper if the customer wants to use a dialler, otherwise the bell will ring as soon as the internal tamper is opened, it just won't go into tamper or appear in the log. The other downside is that the bell on some boxes is quieter when run from the battery, best to test it if you plan to do this. You need to link the tamper to the 0v/A/Aux-, otherwise the box will stay in tamper. If you are at all unsure, just lose the strobe, it's a safer option.

Ahead of you there ) Thanks!

I know this is an old thread now but just in case, the blue volume control pot on the control panel in this system is anti-clockwise for louder, clockwise for quieter. I know this is counter intuitive but this is how it is designed! The type of pot they have used is usually for mounting on the reverse side of the board, I guess they just had them left over from an older design or something. Hope this helps.

I'd be lost without my Hitachi DH18DSL, it's lightweight and packs a decent enough punch for everything I need. It only comes with 1 battery but it's the same connection as the Hitachi 18v drill drivers, I have 2 of these so no probs. Definitely a good buy at £200, had mine nearly a year and it gets used every day.

Hi, My mane is Craig, I am a self employed installer in Inverclyde, West of Glasgow. I mainly install and repair door entry systems and domestic alarm.

I've seen this before on a cheap Chinese import DVR, it was caused by a rough DC power rail. Open the case and look for bulging capacitors, these are sometimes caused by the unit being stood on it's side or having other kit sat on top, effectively disabling any airflow vents. Also check for excessive dust build up in the unit, especially if it's installed in an industrial location. If it has bulging caps, replace them and it should be OK. Hope this helps.

If you aren't certified yourself then grading is irrelevant, just quote for the best system to suit the customer's needs. In relation to the insurance claim, that's for the customer to enquire with the insurer, no matter how honourable your intentions, you are complicating matters for both of you, just let the customer speak to his insurer about that. Everything else you have listed is down to price and suitability.