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About NowItsBroken

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  1. Still prefer paper. I have one manual, which is a composite of the important pages from all the panels I work on usually. 90% of the installer manual is stuff you already know. I need code tables, references, power specs, diagnostic codes etc, so that's all I take with me. Every so often when I get an unfamiliar panel then it's laptop+google to the rescue. I do so much dislike those sites that want to charge a fiver for manuals in PDF even though it cost them nothing, but still wind up having to use them
  2. Omicron 3000 :/ installation & user manual was like 2 pages. No programming as such and only a handful of unsupervised zones. Used to eat batteries from memory. That was the wired option and for wireless we fitted micromark. When I think back it was total **** and about as secure as a paper bag. Now I feel old
  3. It works! Massive thanks to RFS for all your help! I've solved another two scenarios with this link/zone omit deal. I have to admit, when I was first given this job on an unfamiliar panel I had that sinking feeling and it's been slow going but the more I do on this panel the more I like it. I've put a case forward to get a GD on the bench here and get us on a Honeywell training course. With any luck we may get to do more Honeywell which would be nice. Thanks again for all your help.
  4. I see the light! Thank you RFS! I get it now, you mean shunt out the movement zone with the photocell zone? I will try that first thing Monday but sounds like a plan. Much appreciated. (null)
  5. ..but links can't do *and* but not *or* either. The link is one in -> one or more outs. The distributor has apparently asked Honeywell who confirmed simple logic is beyond the panel. Another guy I work with has suggested turning on groups and having a group set and unset based on a link based on the photocell zone, which can then be used to inhibit the output, but that's all theory so far as I haven't tried it. Even if that works its messy as hell and adds a bunch more programming into the deal. When it comes down to it, if I can't solve this easily then I may well consider pulling the panel and replacing it with something smarter. The whole darn building runs off the panel, lights, climate, doors, power and more. The MAXSYS was a old but great panel that just ran out of capacity Thanks for all the help, it is greatly appreciated.
  6. Thanks RFS, I have considered having a second output at each ground floor RIO following the top floor 'its dark' zone. Then loop the flood lights at that RIO through both relays (the output following the movement zone and the output following the 'its dark' zone) but that's going to mean two more RIO's at least as I've only got 4 outs on each unit and will need more. I just thought that this seems such a simple requirement, to have an output require more than one zone to be OPEN before it triggers. Maybe I've over estimated the Galaxy Panel.
  7. Hi, I'm replacing a DSC MAXSYS 4020 with a Galaxy Dimension GD520. All the hard work is done and I'm now programming up the outputs of which there are many. This is the scenario... RIO on the top floor has a zone, Line 3, Mod 1, Zone 1, which is OPEN when its dark outside (from a loop of two Photodetectors on the roof). RIO on the ground floor front: Line 2, Mod 3, Zone 1, which is OPEN when movement detected via Redwall in the garden display area. Line 2, Mod 3, Out 1, Front Flood Lights and a warning. RIO on the ground floor rear: Line 2, Mod 5, Zone 1, which is OPEN when movement detected via Redwall in the car park RIO on the ground floor side: Line 2, Mod 4, Zone 1, which is OPEN when movement detected via Redwall in the loading area. Line 2, Mod 4, Out 1, Side Flood Lights Line 2, Mod 4, Out 2, Rear Flood Lights So, logic is simple on the MAXSYS, if the zone in the area is open *and* its night time, then pulse the appropriate output for 300s (5 mins). In the GD I'm not sure how to achieve this. I can of program the output to follow the respective zones, that works great for the lights in the toilets, corridors, etc, but the floodlights need to ONLY trigger when its dark. I'm sure this is probably as simple as it gets but I just can't find it in the manual (which is a touch poor imo). Please can someone point me in the right direction? I've also got PIR's in the stairwells which also turn on lights when movement detected *and* its dark, which will follow the same logic once I figure out how to do it with the exterior lights. Thanks very much.
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