mikethecamera
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Posts posted by mikethecamera
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Where are you guys based?
I've been scanning the situations vacant sites and everything seems to be down south, not a lot of good to me in North Wales
If an experienced Subby is of any help, drop me a message.
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Very true for domestics, but even the contract commercial side seems quiet.
Apparently we're not in recession, we shall see.
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How is the industry in general.
I'm super quiet at the moment, as quiet as I've known it in many years. I've spoken to some local companies, and one or two of the lads working for the nationals, everyone seems quiet.
I'm self employed and generally have enough contract work for 2-3 weeks in advance, in the last six weeks I've worked 1-2 days a week and the order book is empty. The van hasn't turned a wheel this week yet!
Worrying to say the least!
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Messaged you Tom, not sure if you'll recieve it as your post count is less than 5
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Nice van mike !
, that's my baby. My wife says I think more of the van than I do of her.. She's probably right Mike has done some work for me and working all August for me and I can vouch his work is bang on.
Thank you, sir.
Hi mike based in north west and have lots of contract work for you please get in touch phil
Will give you a call.
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The tamper on the R8 is on the data bus, (t+r terminals) you'll just have two spare cores in the 6 core. (You can double up the power if the keypad is a long way from the panel)
Sounder wiring correct, other two terminals. A is 12v +, D is -.
Good luck with it.
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No Worries, The trouble with the questions on here, is that they seem to refer to panels we, as engineers, have not seen, or at least installed, for years.
I fitted literally hundreds of VR8's, the wiring is, I think, permanently imprinted on my brain.
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800l keypads use 6 wires for RKPs.
Veritas 8 keypads also use 6 wires for RKPs except the keypad tamper is wired into the global tamper loop rather than having a dedicated tamper like the 800l.
In essence, you won't need any extra wires for the keypad.
VR8 Keypads are 4 wire, although Texicom do recommend doubling up on the power on long cable runs. There are no seperate tamper terminals in the keypad.
The 700 + 800 both required the tamper to go into the global IIRC (it's a loooong time since I saw one, let alone installed one!).
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ok success on. pulled everything to a table and started to test. Comes out to be the spring on the tamper switch on the pir was not getting pressed properly in any of the 3 devices. Unit going off installer mode now
)A second question if I may, does anyone know how to install a door detector pls.
Here is a pic of what I have.
Now to what I understand the yellow and blue one is the tamper.
The red and black do they go to a zone or to power 12vand 0 not sure.
My bet, goes to a zone and I break the serial link on the tamper loop and add this one as the same in serial.
Am i correct?
,Raj
Yes, red/black are your zone, blue yellow tamper, although you should have blue yellow split either side of the tamper.
Remeber to face the reed switch (glass tube) toward the magnet.
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Not the **-UK version, that used trad glass fuses, and which AFAIK (according to Cooper marketing blurb) is still available 'for those wanting an ungraded panel'.
That was the later 9651, not the one shown in OP's images.
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The fused side will be +, the 9651 had thermal fuses, so It won't actually be a 'blown fuse'. However without aux feed to the bell it can't operate and give the neg return to close the tamper (or give the neg signal back)
I have a suspicion that somewhere there is a short on the aux, effectively killing the 12v out, or even the panel is U/S, (OP said it was 2nd hand).
At the end of the day OP needs a meter, it's just guess work us all trying to diagnose unless we can get some readings from the aux and tamper circuits.
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There isn't a global tamper on the keypad, it's on the data bus, and would come up as keypad tamper.
Get hold of a meter and test your auxiliiary voltage and tamper loops.
You're not checking for voltage on the tampers, just closed circuits.
I have a sneaky suspicion that the bell tamper is going to be your tamper problem, how have you wired the bell?, Have you used a zone for the bell tamper or wired it into your global tamper?
If you have no voltage coming out of the 12v DC on the panel, and have used the global tamper, then there will be no -return from the bell, and this would also be the reason your zones are staying open.
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never said they did and never said it was.
Simply alluding to the fact it happens more than it should.
That said, the propeies of that cable means you can't say it isn't the cause - without testing.
My apologies, I thought perhaps you were alluding to my post. I'm always tectchy when I'm due on
Agree completely with the testing aspect, which is why I tried to direct OP down that avenue.
It could still very much be the cable type causing O/C problems, seen it a hundred times on DIY / carp installations.
The copper can quite easily break underneath the insulation esp. if its CCA tat.
Then I apologise to the OP for misinforming him.
I'm afraid I'm new to this game, with a mere 26 years experience, and, whilst I have come across many cat5 an TP installations (especially back in the days of BT and even Modern using it regularly) I can probably count on one hand ones where the cable broke just from being bent round a bend or into a CP, and those were due to other factors in play, not just bent cable.
I have, I concede, seen many where the copper has broken due to bending/scoring at termination or where the external sheath has been stripped and the internal sheath has been scored, usually due to a ham fisted attemp at termination with poor tools and skills, (again also seen in poor quality alarm cable terminations), the reason I told OP to check all his terminations.
I have also seen broken cables where excessive force has been used when the cable is pulled in, although, to be fair this is equally likely to happen whether it be cat5 or alarm cable.
The point I was trying to get across was that rewiring the whole system in alarm cable would not remedy the faults OP is experiencing. The cables need to be tested to find the fault, and just rewiring it won't solve his problems.
However now that I stand corrected, I suggest OP pulls all of the cat5 out and rewires it, as is, in 6 or 8 core, muli strand, .22mm, tinned copper cable.
We can then guarantee that all of the existing tamper and OC faults will dissapear..
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Sadly, a point beyond the grasp of more than the OP Rich.
I don't think anyone said it was the 'correct' cable, just that it isn't the cable type that's causing tamper or O/C problems.
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The cable isn't your problem, it's not the correct cable for the job, but, providing it is all terminated and not snapped where you've screwed it in to the termination strips it will work.
From your initial post it seems you have open circuits on zones 1,2 & 3 and an open circuit on the global tamper.
Zones points to no 12v dc at the detectors, either you have a short somewhere, a broken wire, or you've crosed polarity. The 9651 (IIRC) has a thermal fuse so it shouldn't be that. Ideally you need a multimeter to start tracing your fault, if you dont have one check each detector individually, when they are correct the led will light in the detector, indicating power.
The tamper is most likely going to be either a tamper spring in a detector or a broken wire at termination, (cat 5 again), again a meter makes it easy to trace, but failing that wire each one in individually until the fault recurs, this will tell you which one has the open circuit.
You can buy a multimeter for less than £10 which will do what you need, and by the look of all that cat5, it may prove an invaluable investment in th future!
Mike
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Hi All,
Due to a lack of contract work I'm actively seeking regular reliable contracts.
I have 26 years experience in the industry covering CCTV, Intruder, Access Control, Barriers and Gates.
Fully conversant with IP cameras, LAN/WAN, etc.
I have current CSCS, LOLER, PASMA, asbestos awareness, BS7858 & CRB certificates. PL FOR £2M.
I run a 57 plate Vivaro, un-signwritten, with all the relevant tools and equipment, including test meters/monitors, laptop, Arc & MIG welder, etc. All tagged and calibrated where necessary.
C&G 236 and C&G 7267 qualifications.
Based in North Wales and predomininantly working in North Wales & the North West, but willing to travel for regular work.
Please get in touch if you think I may be of use.
,Mike.
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As above, not worked on a logic 4 for a while, but if I remember rightly, behind the keyswitch on the board (or keypad on the optima) there is a big resistor. If the battery developed a short or 'dried out' this resistor would heat up to destruction affecting some or all of the 12v outputs.
Check this resistor, see if there are any burn marks on board or obvious signs of heat on resistor.
It can be replaced although to be honest, for the
, that's my baby. My wife says I think more of the van than I do of her.. She's probably right 
)
Gainful employment sought!
in Security Job Requests and Vacancies
Posted
Well, due to the continued lack of regular work in North Wales, I'm actively seeking either regular subby work or a full time position.
I'm currently based in Gwynedd, North wales. I'm an engineer of 26 years experience.
Conversant in CCTV, Intruder, Access, Automated gates/barriers, networking, WiFi etc.
Full CV available on request, drop me a message.
Mike