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Accenta 6 /Vortex External Siren


Guest whitcht

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Guest whitcht

I've decided to change our rusty old bell box for a Vortex external sounder/strobe made by Lynteck.

the old bell [securitech]was wired as follows with 4 core cable as follows:

Black as -ve

Red as +ve

Yellow as S

Blue as R

These were the marks on the little PCB in the old bell housing

I've connected the Vortex sounder as follows:

Black to Hold-

Red to Hold+

Yellow to TG-

Blue to RETURN

I've set the tamper jumper in the Vortex to External [sounder can only be triggered from control panel, not from it's internal tamper switch]

Upon applying power the sounder goes to a few seconds, as I've set the cut off time to the minimum

The control panel sounds etc, I put in my normal 4 digit code only without pressing any other button on the keypad and everything is silenced.

The problem is now that a permanent 'tamper' is displayed on the keypad

I've disconnected the internal battery and switched it off at the mains and then reconnected it all, same problem as above occurs again.

I realise the strobe won't work as I've on got 4 core to the new siren.

Any suggestions on this one?

Thankyou

Tim.

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I don't know the wiring of the Lyntek sounders specifically but on some boxes you need a link from the -ve to a tamper feed terminal. What are the other terminals on the bell?

As for the strobe, you can link from the trigger -ve to strobe -ve to have the strobe flashing when the sounder is sounding. Just check current ratings before doing this.

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Guest whitcht

The connections on the box are as follows:

Hold+ > Bell +ve supply

Hold- > Bell -ve supply

TG- > Bell Trigger

STB- > Strobe Trigger

RETURN > Bell Tamper Return

Regards

Tim.

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Hmmm, could be a dodgy connection on the tamper return then or, more likely, is that you have fitted the sounder with the rear spring in a mortar course thus not closing when you put it all back together. Always worth giving the arm an obligitary 'bend' before fitting. ;)

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Guest whitcht

I thought by setting the box's tamper function to external it wouldn't matter what state the internal or rear switch was in. I'll check it anyway..thankyou

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Guest whitcht

Thankyou for your help the -ve to tamper did the trick :yes:

You mentioned if I wanted to use the strobe to check current ratings before doing this, sorry on which? the control box or sirent/strobe

The Vortex spec is this:

Hold off supply 13.8Vdc

Battery recharging consumption 13.8 to 15Vdc

Control Current 1mA

Current consumption standby 20mA

Current consumption in alarm 320mA

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Thankyou for your help the -ve to tamper did the trick :yes:

70722[/snapback]

Not quite what I meant. By doing that what you've done is bypassed all of the tamper circuit in the box which isn't recommended. Some boxes need a link from -ve to a tamper feed to create the supply side of the -ve tamper return, yours does this internally so your link is just shorting out the input directly to the output.

As for the current ratings, the Accenta 6 has a 1A power supply and you need to make sure that all the detectors plus the bell and strobe do not exceed this in their alarm state.

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Guest whitcht

I'm stumped then. I've changed nothing to the wiring of the alarm other than fit this new siren/strobe. The new siren/stobe is in a very difficult place to reach and as we have scaffholding up at the moment makes it a good time to change it, so tampering with the box would be almost impossible when the building work is finished. Although looking at the connection diagram for the control panel the wires are shown in this arrangement

T A D B

SCB Bell

|-| + -

T is wired as Tamper

A is wired to Hold -ve

I though SCB was an operating mode or am I really confusing the situation now?

I can post a link to the full connection diagram is this helps?

Going back to wiring up the strobe, our system comprises of 4 PIRS, 1 RKP and control box, I'll assume 15 mA per PIR as they are just standard looking and 40 mA for the RKP, siren, 320 ma in alarm state so it looks if i'm ok to wire the strobe up

Tim.

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Take the blue wire out of the vortex terminal and set your multimeter to dc volts

put the red lead on the red wire on your vortex and the black lead to where the blue wire went. when you close the cover tamper switch you should get approx 12-14 volts. if not either another tamper switch is open as Lurch suggested earlier (rear tamper perhaps?) or there is a fault on your box.

Regards

Bellman

Service Engineer and all round nice bloke :-)

The views above are mine and NOT those of my employer.

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Guest whitcht

All sorted now and works a treat. I put it down to a 'sticky' rear tamper switch on the untit.

Thankyou all for your helpful responses.

Tim. :yes:

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