Jump to content
Security Installer Community

ACCORD XPC DIY INSTALL ADVICE NEEDED


Guest de_deej

Recommended Posts

Guest de_deej

Hello all,

I have done a lot of reading on this site, and I have to say you are all doing a great job.

I know the first thing you are going to tell me is the Accord XPC is not a panel to be undertaking my first DIY install on. But it was the panel I had in my last house and I liked the setup very much. I decided to read about it after purchasing one (yes of eBay). So I'm stuck with it, and I'm not really in a situation to pay for someone else to install it. (Unless anyone wants to do it for a score :callme:)

This is what I've got:

Accord XPC communicator panel.

Accord XPC Keypad

3 x Aritech EV105S PIR's

2X Surface Contacts

1X Aritech AS270 internal bell.

1x //.National Installer.// Dummy Bell Box

And I have a Live //.National Installer.// Bell Box on its way.

I'm also considering buying 3 Vipers. The system that was here originally had vipers on the window and I could re-use this but they look a bit old and are a bit taccy they are Viper model 6622. Should I bin these and get new ones.

I do have the installation guide and wiring diagram for all.

I plan to wire the zones:

Zone 1: Front Door Contact.

Zone 2: Back Door Contact.

Zone 3: Kitchen PIR

Zone 4: Living Room PIR

Zone 5: Upstairs Hallway PIR

Zone 6,7,8: Possible for the Vipers.

My questions to you are:

Should I use BT cable (only joking). :wacko:

No should I use 6 or 8 core Alarm Cable ?? I have looked at all of the connections and it would appear that they all only need 6 core. I am planing to run individual cables for each zone so I don't need any extra. I understand the point of having to spare cables but if I thought their was I fault I would probably run new cable anyway.

OK thats the easy question now it starts to get difficult (well for me anyway)

1. How should I wire the zones: Normally Closed, Double Balanced or End of Line ??

2. How do I wire the Tamper wires. I read this on how to do this:

Now all that should be left are the Tamper cables for each zone, take the zone 1 green wire and connect this to one of the Tamper terminals, now twist the white wire to the green wire of the next zone and terminal block it, then follow through until your left with just the white wire from the last sensor and connect that to the vacant Tamper connection. Basically your just creating a big loop that starts at the panel, goes to detector 1, back to the panel and feeding detector 2, etc, and ending back at the panel from the last zone.

BTW thanks to Service Engineer for this advice and I'm not questionning it but I need to know if this is best for my panel ?

3. My main question is how to wire the resistors, I have the wiring diagram and its not that helpful. If somebody could walk me through this I would really appreciate it. I'm sure it will depend on how I wire the zones I understand I should use the resistors.

4. Finally, I have a dog (a staffie) :D O G:, but I understand the so called Pet Immune detectors are a waist of time. So I plan to part set the system omitting the living room and upstairs hallway when we are out and he is in. I figure this is the best way as he makes enough noise to put of a burglar anyway and we quite often take him out for the whole day so when no ones there the whole house will be protected. What do you think ?

I'm sure everyone has them but the wire diagrams and guides can be found here:

http://www.ademco-microtech.co.uk/techsupport.cfm

Your help will be greatly received and fully appreciated. cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi de_deej.

Firstly if you are set on installing the system yourself and are not too familiar with electronic principles I would say that normally closed is the best route for you, in essence this means that you use six wires (I would strongly recommend 8 core for the spare cores that may be needed in future) for each powered device (PIR). Use the same colours if you can for ease.

Secondly, follow Service Engineers advice on wiring the tampers.

Thirdly, if you use the normally closed method you can discard the resistors....

...and finally the idea with the mut is a good one I personally would not recommend pet sensors for a trouble free install.

Have fun.

Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest de_deej

Hi Norman,

Thanks for your very quick reply.

I wouldn't say I am an expert when it comes to electronics, but I was an electrical apprentice for a year and did gain a GNVQ in Electrical Engineering before I decided it wasn't for me. I am comfortable enough to re-wire my house and have recently fitted a new Consumer Unit so if the resistors are a better option I would be willing to give them a try. Could you tell me what benefits they give.

I hear your point about the 8-core can you suggest the best place to get it from, screwfix do 6 core for under a £10 I think I will probably be ok with 100 metres but I am going to get 200 just in case.

Finally what do you thik about the Vipers, should I re-use the old ones or should I buy new ?

Thanks again,

de_deej

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello all,

Your help will be greatly received and fully appreciated. cheers

40677[/snapback]

As far is i know the Aritech AS270 is voltage driven, you could use this by programing the single output, but i would use a speaker.

Jef

Customers!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest de_deej
As far is i know the Aritech AS270 is voltage driven, you could use this by programing the single output, but i would use a speaker.

Jef

40685[/snapback]

Hi Jb-eye,

Thanks for your response.

Please ignore my ignorence, but what do you mean when you say "voltage driven" ?

The specifications of the siren are:

Supply: 9V-14.2V

Current Consumption: 130ma

Frequency: 104db

Connections:

1+2 = Tamper

3= +12 V---

4= -0 V Speaker

Thanks again,

de_deej

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The AS270 you have requires 12 volts to trip it and would normally follow the external siren.

The loudspeaker would mimic the entry tones etc (generally the noises made by the RKP)

I would buy 2 drums of cable purely for ease, as you may wish to pull more than one cable to a similar location and would negate having to 'run off' the one drum.

The resistors mean that you would only require two wires for the circuit and two for power as the control looks for the resistance on the circuit cable and reports any shorts or opens as a tamper, It is a more secure method and also makes it harder to compromise.

I would purchase some new shock sensors, and putting them on their own dedicated circuit makes it easier to fault find without wiring them to latch on activation.

Oh and I personally disagree with the purchase of 'probable' stolen goods. ;)

Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest de_deej

Hi Norman,

Thanks again for the quick reply.

Oh and I personally disagree with the purchase of 'probable' stolen goods.

I agree and if I could have got it from anywhere else I would have done, but I looked everywhere and apart from //.National Installer.// direct I couldn't see them anywhere else.

Anyway good point about the cable, I will get 200 metres.

I think I would like to try to wire the zones with the resistors, you say I only need four wires. would this apply to the PIR also if so what happens to the tamp connections ? I presume I wire the Aux wire as normal. Leaving the 2 Zone wires. How would I wire this using the 2 resistors, I'm guessing it is the double balanced option on the wiring diagram.

Do I use connection block to conect the alarm wire to the resistor, or do I twist them together or what ?

If possible could you send me some simple instructions on how to do this.

Finnaly, as the AS270 will follow the external siren is it wired the same way and not into the LoudSpeaker Connection on the Board ?

Thanks again for everything,

de_deej

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Peter James

Just my two penneth

We install pet dets all the time, and so long as you follow the instructions they will be trouble free.

I know others will disagree with me (and everyone is entitled to an opinion) but a staffy would definately not be seen by a Bosch 820 if you dont want to trust a lesser detector.

I agree with the above EOL is more secure but not for beginersand 8 core is a sensible choice of cable(if you intend to go in and out of detectors make sure you join cables not being used)

Not familiar with the bell or dets your using, but the XPC is not a bad panel.

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest de_deej

Hi Peter,

Thanks for your post.

I'm not to concerned with the problems that may or may not occur with pet pir's, but I read a link that suggested that they compromise the level of security because someone could cruel or a little kid could break in etc. What do you think ??

I think I am going to try with the resistors at first, if I have any problems I will go back to normally closed.

Thanks again,

de_deej

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest de_deej
Wire thus.

40708[/snapback]

Norman,

again your help is great. this diagram makes a hell of a lot of sense. I do have one final question concerning wiring the pir's and other sensors. Do I wire them in the same way ??

Thank you.

de_deej

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Peter James

There are some poor detectors out there that has the lower half of the lense masked so it cant see anything shorter than 3 foot.

Not the case with the 820 I have crawled around on the floor and cant get past it.

Some good pet detectors are said to be less responsive this is most likely due to it working out wether its a pet or a prob.

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Norman,

again your help is great. this diagram makes a hell of a lot of sense. I do have one final question concerning wiring the pir's and other sensors. Do I wire them in the same way ??

Thank you.

de_deej

40733[/snapback]

Yes, basically the contact (door, PIR Viper etc) shorts out the 1k resistor leaving just 1k showing. the control looks for 1k as a closed circuit, 2k for a single open device etc...

Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest de_deej
There are some poor detectors out there that  has the lower half of the lense masked so it cant see anything shorter than 3 foot.

Not the case with the 820 I have crawled around on the floor and cant get past it.

Some good pet detectors are said to be less responsive this is most likely due to it working out wether its a pet or a prob.

Pete

40737[/snapback]

Peter,

Hearing that I thiink I might give one a try. You said Bosch are the best, I have looked on the internet and I can't find anywhere that stocks them. Do you have any ideas or can you suggest any alternatives.

Thanks again for your help,

de_deej

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ignore.....................teach me not to read all replies.

The opinions I express are mine and are usually correct!

(Except when I'm wrong)(which I'm not)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest de_deej
Yes, basically the contact (door, PIR Viper etc) shorts out the 1k resistor leaving just 1k showing. the control looks for 1k as a closed circuit, 2k for a single open device etc...

40739[/snapback]

Hi Norman,

Thanks again.

I think I have confussed myself (it doesn't take a lot).

I just want to confirm,

the picture you sent is of how to wire the board, detector or both??

If it is the board only do I still use all 6 wires on the detector. If I use four how do I wire them if 6 what do I do with the spare wires ? and does it matter that my board only has one tamp zone so they will all be connected together ?

If it is the sensor only, I presume that the 2 wires go straight into the Zone on the board.

If it is both well thats simple (I think/hope).

I'm sorry if this sounds dim but I started to think about it to much and ended up getting confussed. I am hoping this is my last question (and probably so are you).

Thanks again for everything,

de_deej

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest de_deej
Thats the detector end, at the board just connect the 2 circuit wires in along with any power you need.

40785[/snapback]

Norman,

Thanks that makes it a lot clearer in my head. I am ordering the wire tomorrow, and probably starting the install on Saturday. I will let you know how it goes.

Thanks for everything,

de_deej

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think I am going to try with the resistors at first, if I have any problems I will go back to normally closed.de_deej

40728[/snapback]

Remember to put a link across the tamper zone if using Dbal. Solid or resistor it dose'nt matter

Jef

Customers!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest de_deej
Remember to put a link across the tamper zone if using Dbal. Solid or resistor it dose'nt matter

Jef

40814[/snapback]

Thanks jb-eye, the link is already in place.

de_deej

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest de_deej

Hi all,

Thought I would provide you with an update on my DIY install and I could do with a little bit of advice.

I finally started it two days ago due to screwfix f___ing up my order.

Anyway it took me a day just to run the wires, and today I installed the following:

Zone 1: Front Door Contact

Zone 2: Back door contact

Zone 3: Upstairs door contact

Zone 4: Kitchen PIR (Cosmos dualTech)

Zone 5: Dining Room PIR (Cosmos Pet Immune Dual Tech)

Zone 6: Front Room Pir

Zone 7: Upstairs Landing Pir

Zone 8: Master Bedroom Pir

I have not connected the external bell yet as it has not arrived.

I have installed the internal siren.

I have programmed the system and each sensor has been wired with the 2 1k resistors as described by Norman (Thanks !).

I had some trouble with the door contacts (Receiving a tamp fault to all 3 due to incorrect wiring) but now all of the sensors appear to be working fine.

Anyway I do still have a problem, the zonal tamper is everpresent on the keypad. I have tried to reset the system and re-programing it. I have connected the bell tamp with a piece of wire (I would of used a resistor but I don't have any left).

I have got the siren going into the zone tamp on the board so I have not connected them. Should I have wired them into the bell tamp or should I have used resistors ?

I am concerned that the problem is to do with the tamper switch on the panel, I fear this because when I was fixing the door contact problems whenever I touched one it triggered an alarm, activated the siren and needed to be disarmed. But when I remove the panels lid it doesn't trigger another alarm.

Has anyone got any ideas ? or should I post a new topic in the control panel room ?

Thanks,

de_deej

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.