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Optima 2 Plus Alarm - External Bell Box and Strobe


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21 minutes ago, backofthenet said:

Thanks 

 

The bells have the following terminals

 

A (12V ) Permanent Positive Supply D is +ve supply (12v) pair of red wires

B (BELL) Negative Applied Output to Activate Siren B is bell ringer – one white and one green wire connected to this terminal

C (TAMP) Negative Removed on Tamper Input T is –ve tamper return – one yellow wire

D (0V) Permanent Negative Supply A is –ve supply (OV) – pair of black wires

S (STRB) Negative Applied Output to Activate Strobe Terminals 48 & 49 are strobe – 48 blue wire 49 white wire

 

You just need to meter the blue and white wires to find out which is positive this wire doesnt need connecting to the bell just the negative trigger 

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It's the only thing they make well

It always astounds me how people think the security industry doesn't know anything. Many want the bells to show armed status etc without think its a green light for non green light people  However

If only people understood the thought that has gone into the british security industry that has made it what it is today. Its no wonder that every man and his dog thinks that he can set himself up as

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Well white is currently strobe neg but that wouldn't matter if you pull all the wires out and use whatever colours you want.

I am more thinking you need to know which wire is for which box

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Depends on the system current, battery on for both yer.

The other jumpers you are balancing sound output and available system current making sure the PSU isn't overloaded in alarm and that you can keep the system up with no mains power.

If your not sure the safe option is SCB for both then minimal load will be put on the system.

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Thanks all,

 

i'm happy with having a working system but drawing minimal load based o it's age - 1994

 

So based on minimal load on system I will set jumper 1 = battery on both units and jumper 2 = SCB on both units unless you disagree 

 

think the neighbours might appreciate less loud alarms anyway 🙂

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Hi - Update,

 

Have now wired in both Texacom's 

 

Front of house all working fine. 

 

Rear of house - bell works fine but no strobe - can't understand why as the control panel strobe connections are wired 48 blue and 49 white - so connected front strobe to 49 - white and that works - rear to 48 - blue and that won't strobe. I must admit that on the oriiginal config the blue was not connected to strobe in rear but green was - but no green wire is connected to strobe on control panel - only blue and white.

 

One other point - i have both external boxes set at battery yes and SCB yes - issue with that is if i power the system off (no battery in control panel yet) then the bells go off - so how can i open up the panels now?

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One bell didn't have a strobe connection in the panel? The strobes are -ve trigger so you had a +ve and -ve wire where you need two -ve.

You can't the point is they self activate if you tamper with them, get some earplugs. If you remove hold-off power and battery jumper, they will be in test mode until you close them again.

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Posted (edited)

 

 

Hi, thanks for the reply - if you look at the control panel then "strobe" is identified as 48 and 49 - both have a connection going in - 48 blue and 49 white 

although the manual seems to suggest that only 49 is -ve 

 

does that mean i need to take the blue wire out of terminal 48 and put it into terminal 49 as well along woth the white cable.

 

(i'm assuming that the blue wire in 48 is the cable that goes to bell 2 with the non working strobe?)

 

also if i'm in engineer mode can i take the front panel off the control unit and prevent a tamper?

 

 

 

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Edited by backofthenet
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Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

One bell didn't have a strobe connection in the panel?

No - both white and blue wires are connected in the panel - white to 49 and blue to 48

 

BUT the blue wire in the original external second unit did not have the blue wire connected at all - I connected the blue wire to the new external second unit

Edited by backofthenet
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2 minutes ago, backofthenet said:

No - both white and blue wires are connected in the panel - white to 49 and blue to 48

 

BUT the blue wire in the original external second unit did not have the blue wire connected at all - I connected the blue wire to the new external second unit

as i said its a strobe +, not a strobe - hopefully it hasnt damaged your bell 

 

Strobe + is an additional permanent + on the days of way back when strobes were a seperate device not all built into a modern sounder

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9 minutes ago, james.wilson said:

as i said its a strobe +, not a strobe - hopefully it hasnt damaged your bell 

 

Strobe + is an additional permanent + on the days of way back when strobes were a seperate device not all built into a modern sounder

The bell unit is still working in test mode just no strobe - which is why i think i need to move the blue cable in the control unit from terminal 48 and put it into terminal 49 (strobe -ve) 

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22 minutes ago, james.wilson said:

as long as its connected to strobe neg in the bell then yes. 

 

yep 100% blue is connected to strobe negative in the bell box - i'll make the control panel change in the morning and move blue to strobe -ve in control panel

 

on a side note I didn't realise with these bell boxes that the Left and Right LED's alternate slow flash when in operation even if alarm not set - which is a good feature.  

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It always astounds me how people think the security industry doesn't know anything. Many want the bells to show armed status etc without think its a green light for non green light people 

However the next non approved or meeting any EN or BS product will be the best thing ever, till a ring doorbell is nicked

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securitywarehouse https://store.securitywarehouse.co.uk

Trade Members please contact us for your TSI vetted trade discount.

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11 hours ago, james.wilson said:

It always astounds me how people think the security industry doesn't know anything. Many want the bells to show armed status etc without think its a green light for non green light people 

However the next non approved or meeting any EN or BS product will be the best thing ever, till a ring doorbell is nicked

If only people understood the thought that has gone into the british security industry that has made it what it is today. Its no wonder that every man and his dog thinks that he can set himself up as a professional CCTV installer, the pictures look great but the important part, the recordings are useless 

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18 hours ago, backofthenet said:

on a side note I didn't realise with these bell boxes that the Left and Right LED's alternate slow flash when in operation even if alarm not set - which is a good feature.  

 

lol missed this,

 

the comfort led's on an external sounder  are not really a new thing, the earlist I can recall fitting is a CQR Ultima 1994 is ?

Mr😀 Veritas God

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18 hours ago, backofthenet said:

 

 

on a side note I didn't realise with these bell boxes that the Left and Right LED's alternate slow flash when in operation even if alarm not set - which is a good feature.  

Just means alarm was knackered well before you decided to look at it, and walking around not realising many bells have comfort lights 

 

You do know what your doing right?

Edited by al-yeti
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2 hours ago, MrHappy said:

 

lol missed this,

 

the comfort led's on an external sounder  are not really a new thing, the earlist I can recall fitting is a CQR Ultima 1994 is ?

Ha ha - the two old 1994 external sounders i have just thrown away at the tip did'nt have this feature so thought i was moving into the 21st century.

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2 hours ago, al-yeti said:

Just means alarm was knackered well before you decided to look at it, and walking around not realising many bells have comfort lights 

 

You do know what your doing right?

Not really (know what i am doing) but have learnt a ,lot with the help of you Guy's - now have modern working bell boxes.

 

Just put the control panel through all it's tests in engineer mode

 

1. External bell - Pass

2. External strobe - Pass

3. Internal low volume bell on control panel - pass 

4. Internal high volume bell on control panel - pass

5. Walk test - zones - fail - Zone 4 causing issues - I think next thing for the same of £10 or so is to change all the surface mount magnetic door contacts - 4 in all - as they look a bit 1994!

 

ref point 5 - the alarm won't arm itself either at the moment - when entering code alarm gives a low beep followed by 3 high pitched beeps but does'nt stop so not activating.  Sometimes say zone 4 is at fault but if i slam the door / tap the surface mount contact on the door the light for zone f4 goes out.

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On 29/03/2021 at 17:24, sixwheeledbeast said:

It's alright replacing components like for like but often if the systems been in for a while and not checked over by someone knowledgable the system design would need assessment.

Agreed - I wasted my money in a way on the surface mounts in a way - although only £7.50 - as I now have everything working including an alarm that arms and goes off during an intruder event.

 

as an enthusiastic amateur I'm delighted to say the least.  

 

Two final issues I had 

 

1. The alarm would not arm itself - always had 1 high pitched beep followed by 3 low pitched beep's when entering customer code and this would just go on and on and the alarm would not set - by trial and error this was solved by omitting ZONE 3 when arming - at which point the alarm armed itself after the 30 seconds escape time I had set.

2. To my dismay even though the alarm was armed upon activating a PIR then no outside bells BUT tamper but attack was indicated on control panel - solved by going into engineer mode and taking option 7 - sounder options and toggling "Fire/Outside bells" on.

 

all started working - so a working alarm system

 

finally i went through all the tests in engineer mode and all seems OK

 

One final point - ZONE 3 LED does not light up on the control panel (which is how i guessed what was causing my two final issues) though and i'm wondering if that's a faulty LED bulb? and can they be replaced?

 

 

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2 hours ago, backofthenet said:

One final point - ZONE 3 LED does not light up on the control panel (which is how i guessed what was causing my two final issues) though and i'm wondering if that's a faulty LED bulb? and can they be replaced?

 

lol... you didn't no they "bleep" the open circuit no. when setting....

 

if the zone does work when linked out its more than the led which needs replacing

Mr😀 Veritas God

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