PeterJames Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 21 minutes ago, backofthenet said: Thanks The bells have the following terminals A (12V ) Permanent Positive Supply D is +ve supply (12v) pair of red wires B (BELL) Negative Applied Output to Activate Siren B is bell ringer – one white and one green wire connected to this terminal C (TAMP) Negative Removed on Tamper Input T is –ve tamper return – one yellow wire D (0V) Permanent Negative Supply A is –ve supply (OV) – pair of black wires S (STRB) Negative Applied Output to Activate Strobe Terminals 48 & 49 are strobe – 48 blue wire 49 white wire You just need to meter the blue and white wires to find out which is positive this wire doesnt need connecting to the bell just the negative trigger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixwheeledbeast Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 Well white is currently strobe neg but that wouldn't matter if you pull all the wires out and use whatever colours you want. I am more thinking you need to know which wire is for which box Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backofthenet Posted March 26, 2021 Author Share Posted March 26, 2021 Thanks All, any advice on the correct jumper settings for external unit 1 & 2 i think unit 1 can be factory set but unit 2 must be jumper 1 = battery on and jumper 2 = SCB ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixwheeledbeast Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 Depends on the system current, battery on for both yer. The other jumpers you are balancing sound output and available system current making sure the PSU isn't overloaded in alarm and that you can keep the system up with no mains power. If your not sure the safe option is SCB for both then minimal load will be put on the system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backofthenet Posted March 27, 2021 Author Share Posted March 27, 2021 Thanks all, i'm happy with having a working system but drawing minimal load based o it's age - 1994 So based on minimal load on system I will set jumper 1 = battery on both units and jumper 2 = SCB on both units unless you disagree think the neighbours might appreciate less loud alarms anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backofthenet Posted March 28, 2021 Author Share Posted March 28, 2021 Hi - Update, Have now wired in both Texacom's Front of house all working fine. Rear of house - bell works fine but no strobe - can't understand why as the control panel strobe connections are wired 48 blue and 49 white - so connected front strobe to 49 - white and that works - rear to 48 - blue and that won't strobe. I must admit that on the oriiginal config the blue was not connected to strobe in rear but green was - but no green wire is connected to strobe on control panel - only blue and white. One other point - i have both external boxes set at battery yes and SCB yes - issue with that is if i power the system off (no battery in control panel yet) then the bells go off - so how can i open up the panels now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixwheeledbeast Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 One bell didn't have a strobe connection in the panel? The strobes are -ve trigger so you had a +ve and -ve wire where you need two -ve. You can't the point is they self activate if you tamper with them, get some earplugs. If you remove hold-off power and battery jumper, they will be in test mode until you close them again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backofthenet Posted March 28, 2021 Author Share Posted March 28, 2021 (edited) Hi, thanks for the reply - if you look at the control panel then "strobe" is identified as 48 and 49 - both have a connection going in - 48 blue and 49 white although the manual seems to suggest that only 49 is -ve does that mean i need to take the blue wire out of terminal 48 and put it into terminal 49 as well along woth the white cable. (i'm assuming that the blue wire in 48 is the cable that goes to bell 2 with the non working strobe?) also if i'm in engineer mode can i take the front panel off the control unit and prevent a tamper? Edited March 28, 2021 by backofthenet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james.wilson Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 one will be strobe pos and the other the switched strobe neg or trigger. They arnt 2 triggered outputs Quote securitywarehouse Security Supplies from Security Warehouse Trade Members please contact us for your TSI vetted trade discount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backofthenet Posted March 28, 2021 Author Share Posted March 28, 2021 (edited) 3 hours ago, sixwheeledbeast said: One bell didn't have a strobe connection in the panel? No - both white and blue wires are connected in the panel - white to 49 and blue to 48 BUT the blue wire in the original external second unit did not have the blue wire connected at all - I connected the blue wire to the new external second unit Edited March 28, 2021 by backofthenet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james.wilson Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 2 minutes ago, backofthenet said: No - both white and blue wires are connected in the panel - white to 49 and blue to 48 BUT the blue wire in the original external second unit did not have the blue wire connected at all - I connected the blue wire to the new external second unit as i said its a strobe +, not a strobe - hopefully it hasnt damaged your bell Strobe + is an additional permanent + on the days of way back when strobes were a seperate device not all built into a modern sounder Quote securitywarehouse Security Supplies from Security Warehouse Trade Members please contact us for your TSI vetted trade discount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backofthenet Posted March 28, 2021 Author Share Posted March 28, 2021 9 minutes ago, james.wilson said: as i said its a strobe +, not a strobe - hopefully it hasnt damaged your bell Strobe + is an additional permanent + on the days of way back when strobes were a seperate device not all built into a modern sounder The bell unit is still working in test mode just no strobe - which is why i think i need to move the blue cable in the control unit from terminal 48 and put it into terminal 49 (strobe -ve) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixwheeledbeast Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 I think both JW and I have both tried to explain as best we can. Your Strobe +ve terminal at the panel will be unused. You need a -ve Strobe to each bell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james.wilson Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 as long as its connected to strobe neg in the bell then yes. Quote securitywarehouse Security Supplies from Security Warehouse Trade Members please contact us for your TSI vetted trade discount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backofthenet Posted March 28, 2021 Author Share Posted March 28, 2021 22 minutes ago, james.wilson said: as long as its connected to strobe neg in the bell then yes. yep 100% blue is connected to strobe negative in the bell box - i'll make the control panel change in the morning and move blue to strobe -ve in control panel on a side note I didn't realise with these bell boxes that the Left and Right LED's alternate slow flash when in operation even if alarm not set - which is a good feature. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james.wilson Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 as opposed to showing the world it isnt set? Quote securitywarehouse Security Supplies from Security Warehouse Trade Members please contact us for your TSI vetted trade discount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james.wilson Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 It always astounds me how people think the security industry doesn't know anything. Many want the bells to show armed status etc without think its a green light for non green light people However the next non approved or meeting any EN or BS product will be the best thing ever, till a ring doorbell is nicked 1 Quote securitywarehouse Security Supplies from Security Warehouse Trade Members please contact us for your TSI vetted trade discount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterJames Posted March 29, 2021 Share Posted March 29, 2021 11 hours ago, james.wilson said: It always astounds me how people think the security industry doesn't know anything. Many want the bells to show armed status etc without think its a green light for non green light people However the next non approved or meeting any EN or BS product will be the best thing ever, till a ring doorbell is nicked If only people understood the thought that has gone into the british security industry that has made it what it is today. Its no wonder that every man and his dog thinks that he can set himself up as a professional CCTV installer, the pictures look great but the important part, the recordings are useless 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrHappy Posted March 29, 2021 Share Posted March 29, 2021 18 hours ago, backofthenet said: on a side note I didn't realise with these bell boxes that the Left and Right LED's alternate slow flash when in operation even if alarm not set - which is a good feature. lol missed this, the comfort led's on an external sounder are not really a new thing, the earlist I can recall fitting is a CQR Ultima 1994 is ? Quote Mr Veritas God Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al-yeti Posted March 29, 2021 Share Posted March 29, 2021 (edited) 18 hours ago, backofthenet said: on a side note I didn't realise with these bell boxes that the Left and Right LED's alternate slow flash when in operation even if alarm not set - which is a good feature. Just means alarm was knackered well before you decided to look at it, and walking around not realising many bells have comfort lights You do know what your doing right? Edited March 29, 2021 by al-yeti Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backofthenet Posted March 29, 2021 Author Share Posted March 29, 2021 2 hours ago, MrHappy said: lol missed this, the comfort led's on an external sounder are not really a new thing, the earlist I can recall fitting is a CQR Ultima 1994 is ? Ha ha - the two old 1994 external sounders i have just thrown away at the tip did'nt have this feature so thought i was moving into the 21st century. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backofthenet Posted March 29, 2021 Author Share Posted March 29, 2021 2 hours ago, al-yeti said: Just means alarm was knackered well before you decided to look at it, and walking around not realising many bells have comfort lights You do know what your doing right? Not really (know what i am doing) but have learnt a ,lot with the help of you Guy's - now have modern working bell boxes. Just put the control panel through all it's tests in engineer mode 1. External bell - Pass 2. External strobe - Pass 3. Internal low volume bell on control panel - pass 4. Internal high volume bell on control panel - pass 5. Walk test - zones - fail - Zone 4 causing issues - I think next thing for the same of £10 or so is to change all the surface mount magnetic door contacts - 4 in all - as they look a bit 1994! ref point 5 - the alarm won't arm itself either at the moment - when entering code alarm gives a low beep followed by 3 high pitched beeps but does'nt stop so not activating. Sometimes say zone 4 is at fault but if i slam the door / tap the surface mount contact on the door the light for zone f4 goes out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixwheeledbeast Posted March 29, 2021 Share Posted March 29, 2021 It's alright replacing components like for like but often if the systems been in for a while and not checked over by someone knowledgable the system design would need assessment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backofthenet Posted April 1, 2021 Author Share Posted April 1, 2021 On 29/03/2021 at 17:24, sixwheeledbeast said: It's alright replacing components like for like but often if the systems been in for a while and not checked over by someone knowledgable the system design would need assessment. Agreed - I wasted my money in a way on the surface mounts in a way - although only £7.50 - as I now have everything working including an alarm that arms and goes off during an intruder event. as an enthusiastic amateur I'm delighted to say the least. Two final issues I had 1. The alarm would not arm itself - always had 1 high pitched beep followed by 3 low pitched beep's when entering customer code and this would just go on and on and the alarm would not set - by trial and error this was solved by omitting ZONE 3 when arming - at which point the alarm armed itself after the 30 seconds escape time I had set. 2. To my dismay even though the alarm was armed upon activating a PIR then no outside bells BUT tamper but attack was indicated on control panel - solved by going into engineer mode and taking option 7 - sounder options and toggling "Fire/Outside bells" on. all started working - so a working alarm system finally i went through all the tests in engineer mode and all seems OK One final point - ZONE 3 LED does not light up on the control panel (which is how i guessed what was causing my two final issues) though and i'm wondering if that's a faulty LED bulb? and can they be replaced? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrHappy Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 2 hours ago, backofthenet said: One final point - ZONE 3 LED does not light up on the control panel (which is how i guessed what was causing my two final issues) though and i'm wondering if that's a faulty LED bulb? and can they be replaced? lol... you didn't no they "bleep" the open circuit no. when setting.... if the zone does work when linked out its more than the led which needs replacing Quote Mr Veritas God Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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