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Alarm design advice for 3 bedroom house


EDinMK

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Well i guess the next stage is some advice on what to get Please guys:

 

The house I need to cover needs the folloing

 

Conservatory Door (contact or shock ..probably)
Patio Door (contact or shock ..probably)

Kitchen Door (Contact)

Kitchen window has 2 openings ...would a shock sensor be better?)
Util Room is always closed so thinking PIR
Dining Room Window has 3 openings ...What do u suggest?

Front Door (thinking Contact)

downstairs WC (1 opening)

Lounge Window has 3 openings (but as this is closed at night a PIR would be ok?)

 

The dogs have the run of most of the house, when they are in bed or go out , except for lounge/util/wc

they climb on stuff like crazy, they are jack russells ..you cant teach them s**t

 

Upstairs they only want a panic button in bedroom. There is only 1 room they want to secure its like
a 2nd bedroom , and its always closed ...nothing of real value in here, but sentimental photos and old stuff 

they want protecting ..so I am thinking PIR in there too

 

all this with a wired Bell Box

 

So where should i go and what should i be asking for 
I will have to self-fit as the cost will be more than the Yale (obviously)
I am not too thick and so unless its a beast i should be OK

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Security systems need bespoke design, there is so much to think about it's an important part of the job when you get someone in to assess the risk of the property.

There is only so much advice you can give without seeing the site.

 

General rule of thumb from what you have said above, you need to protect all rooms on the ground floor plus any higher risk upstairs rooms.

If you have pets, any room they are in while you need the alarm set would be best to have perimeter protection over motion detection, this makes appropriate coverage more expensive.

Contacts will only operate if the fixture it's mounted to is opened as intended.

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38 minutes ago, james.wilson said:

Depending on window contruction, type etc you may need 3 sensors

 

thanks James it is UPVC and has 2 side openings and one int he middle at the top (although not sure anyone could get in there)
I dont really know how these shock sensors work ..I mean the windows are always latched closed and need to be push button to turn

so I am presuming a robber would either break the glass or pry the window ...

 

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One area where I am myself prepared to be flexible with how far coverage goes is occupation - it's surprising how often I am asked to fit an alarm

for an old couple and when I check the logs its been set about twice a year! That's fine if the twice a year is two three month cruises (which is the case for

one particular customer, and I fully understand why they want an alarm) but I was just wondering, I take it the house is regularly empty for hours rather than

weeks at a time, or not?

So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands

 

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thanks

but they do like to keep busy and with hospital and stuff
(one is getting treatment for C) then they are out a bit

 

But anyway I have decided to PIR that room as its locked when they go out anyway

 

So i look around t'interweb amnd i suppose i need a "hybrid" an alarm with wireless and cabled features

and i get to here ..Scantronic 40 zone hybrid control panel - Security Warehouse

 

how confusing is this 

 

I need a Box with Keyfobs (preferrably)

A dialler unit to call relatives

3 x Wireless PIR

8 Wireless Contacts

1 x Panic Button

1 x Wired Bellbox

 

none of the kits seem to match this setup ...guess i am looking at separates 

 

 

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4 minutes ago, EDinMK said:

But anyway I have decided to PIR that room as its locked when they go out anyway

 

Just put a PIR on the landing like most would - unless there is a flat roof entry to one room only is rare (and even with the flat roof it is rare to go in and out to one room)

A PIR on the landing catches people coming out from 1st floor entry, or those boshing the front (or back) door and running straight up the stairs for the bedroom jewelrly.

 

4 minutes ago, EDinMK said:

A dialler unit to call relatives

 

No no no - forget this neolitic technology. This is why we've steered you towards the likes of Texecom.

 

Do they have t'interwebs at their house?

 

It's rare a kit will have everything you need - its usual to buy a kit and then add what you need.

Edited by datadiffusion

So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands

 

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kits are generic and usually put together. Few pro installers would use a kit they should pick the right detectors etc for the application. Now your seeing why kits are far from ideal as there has to be a compromise somewhere

also pstn is being switched off by 2025 so best not install something that can only use it

securitywarehouse Security Supplies from Security Warehouse

Trade Members please contact us for your TSI vetted trade discount.

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2 minutes ago, datadiffusion said:

Do they have t'interwebs at their house?

 

If not vote Jez ;)

LOL someone registered 'britishbroadband.net' this morning, though the .com has been biding it's time since 2002 :)

So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands

 

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Well they do have internet for sure.

Cant have anything on stairs as dogs run up there too.

 

So with Texecom I can get a dialler unit ?

I just though a nice bundle would reduce the cost ...

 

Is there only really TWO affordable/quality self fit alarm alternatives ..Tex or Pyr

seems a narrow market to me 

 

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4 hours ago, james.wilson said:

kits are generic and usually put together. Few pro installers would use a kit they should pick the right detectors etc for the application. Now your seeing why kits are far from ideal as there has to be a compromise somewhere

also pstn is being switched off by 2025 so best not install something that can only use it

Yes free broadband aswell

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10 minutes ago, al-yeti said:

Yes free broadband aswell

yes im getting ready for the  redundancy, we do loss covering when its likely to come back, going into December im gonna have convert my garden and brick a few windows up, this is an old policy right...

securitywarehouse Security Supplies from Security Warehouse

Trade Members please contact us for your TSI vetted trade discount.

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Looks Good!

 

But I have ANOTHER enigma, and i have watched videos on youtube etc ..but none seem to show this.
 

Basically if you look at their windows (below)

 

you can see the window is a GOOD 3/4 inch deeper than the actual frame.
 

I mean i know the magnetic contact always goes window/door side. but even when closed it will be still a good 5mm away from even lining up opposing edges
never mind facing !


and i am presuming it needs to be facing each other ....so would this be a "packer" job ? I mean I dont recall ever seeing a magnetic contact

sitting or jutting out on what would be a lego brick block before 

 

or am i not looking LOL

 

 

 

 

 

windowframe.jpg

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hmmm

 

Perhaps i am being a bit dumb

I drew a little drawing 

 

Basically even if i put a spacer under the mag contact on the window, and get it

to the same "height" as the wireless sender ...the sender is too far away (if you get me)

i mean it is a upvc window but it has fancy plastic 18mm bead around everywhere, and so there is no

SQUARE finish between the fram and window anywhere

 

 

I hope u get what i mean 

 

gap.jpg

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49 minutes ago, EDinMK said:

hmmm

 

Perhaps i am being a bit dumb

I drew a little drawing 

 

Basically even if i put a spacer under the mag contact on the window, and get it

to the same "height" as the wireless sender ...the sender is too far away (if you get me)

i mean it is a upvc window but it has fancy plastic 18mm bead around everywhere, and so there is no

SQUARE finish between the fram and window anywhere

 

 

I hope u get what i mean 

 

gap.jpg

Screwagnet to curve if your not fussed realistically you won't ever remove the magnet or contact , but may replace it and if you move who cares

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what a a testicle ache

i just looked at my windows and these are almost identical

i dont know what they cant make some form of "wedge" to fix them to ..i really dont

 

something like this could work,as long as the tape was strong enough ...no reason it wouldnt work ?

screwing is an option too 

 

 

ideapacker.jpg

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You want to screw them not stick. Alse re wedge etc there are thousands of window profile so it's either additional rf sensors or wired. As above I'd use a flush contact(s) but ob my own windows I only use the shock element

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