sixwheeledbeast Posted August 10, 2019 Share Posted August 10, 2019 It won't be firmware. It's all down to zone configuration somewhere. Nobody will ship a panel that has firmware that mean the zones dont work. Even if that was possible it would have been found upon installation and sent back not left screwed to your wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadrack Posted August 10, 2019 Author Share Posted August 10, 2019 No matter what I set the zone config to, it shows active. So.. thinking after all this, something is broken? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al-yeti Posted August 10, 2019 Share Posted August 10, 2019 23 minutes ago, Shadrack said: No matter what I set the zone config to, it shows active. So.. thinking after all this, something is broken? Thought you said when linking wires out , the zones clear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadrack Posted August 10, 2019 Author Share Posted August 10, 2019 Turns out when they were all clear, they were all set to Null zone type, out of all the zone types and wiring, unless set to "N/O" it shows active. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixwheeledbeast Posted August 10, 2019 Share Posted August 10, 2019 Well do they change state in any of the modes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadrack Posted August 10, 2019 Author Share Posted August 10, 2019 Nope, constant "active", even if I clear faults/disarm. First 4 zones (the only zones this PCB has) are all redlining. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixwheeledbeast Posted August 11, 2019 Share Posted August 11, 2019 It would be pretty rare to have a duff panel, if your going to blow something you would likely only break one circuit. having all the circuits do the same makes me still think a programming option. As I said I know Texe stuff pretty well but we rarely see international series over here, so I couldn't point you to the exact programming option from if that is what the issue is. My advice for testing panels zones would be to remove ALL other wiring (to remove possibility of a ground loop) and only use short pieces of wire and/or resistors to test your circuits. I imagine you need to be in walk test/zone status or some other mode that would trigger if a zone where activated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadrack Posted August 12, 2019 Author Share Posted August 12, 2019 (edited) Ok let's start from the top. As of typing this I have removed all wiring except siren, remote, power and AUX power to the sensors. all sensor signal wires are removed. NO jumpers/resistors in yet. the terminals are empty. The settings for the zones are all nulled as a starting point. Here's pics of everything so far: Edited August 12, 2019 by Shadrack added 1 more pic of the PCB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixwheeledbeast Posted August 12, 2019 Share Posted August 12, 2019 Type "Null" if there is no zone type it's not active. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadrack Posted August 12, 2019 Author Share Posted August 12, 2019 Yeah, I set null since nothing is plugged in, now, with nothing plugged in, I changed to 04 Interior Instant with zone wiring Normally Open. shows no fault. so open circuit. which is correct. as there is no jumper/resistor. NOW changing to Single EOL - S/C Tamper, now shows zone 4 active. Gonna go install a jumper/dupont cable for Zone 4 now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.