Shadrack Posted August 9, 2019 Author Share Posted August 9, 2019 that is out of engineers. Engineers has all 8 lit up. I tried tamper disable pin on the controller, (has a 3 jumper pinout for Tamper Disable), same thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al-yeti Posted August 9, 2019 Share Posted August 9, 2019 21 minutes ago, Shadrack said: that is out of engineers. Engineers has all 8 lit up. I tried tamper disable pin on the controller, (has a 3 jumper pinout for Tamper Disable), same thing. So if you disable tampers , then might be as Swb says the seol config and resistor combination? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadrack Posted August 9, 2019 Author Share Posted August 9, 2019 Well I did nuke config back to defaults so it shouldn't be an issue? also I removed the broken reed and removed the wires so no more 2 reeds on 1 zone. as it is while I type this, all sensors removed, replaced with resistors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixwheeledbeast Posted August 9, 2019 Share Posted August 9, 2019 May not be setup for resistors as default Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al-yeti Posted August 9, 2019 Share Posted August 9, 2019 8 minutes ago, Shadrack said: Well I did nuke config back to defaults so it shouldn't be an issue? also I removed the broken reed and removed the wires so no more 2 reeds on 1 zone. as it is while I type this, all sensors removed, replaced with resistors. Put wire links instead of resistors and see if anything changes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadrack Posted August 9, 2019 Author Share Posted August 9, 2019 Changed to wire links. Reset config, disabled box tamper, let it boot up, reset time/date, all zone lights showed unlit. So progress I think? I then proceeded to add zone 3 (passage) as it's easier to test that while I'm busy with it since the keypad is 1m away from it. configured that zone as an interior instant NC. (Is this correct? it's the PIR from previous PIR picture), it does not detect when I stand there. the sensor itself lights up, the zone on the keypad does not. Also, that trouble light is illuminated still. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadrack Posted August 9, 2019 Author Share Posted August 9, 2019 Alright I've made some progress! Might make it easier. I've assembled a TTL to USB device and mapped the COM 1 port on the 412 and managed to hack it all together so I can use Wintex to see the panel. Now to figure how to go from there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadrack Posted August 9, 2019 Author Share Posted August 9, 2019 The firmware on the panel is Premier 412 Version 7.1, would updating be possible for such an old panel? without bricking it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al-yeti Posted August 9, 2019 Share Posted August 9, 2019 4 minutes ago, Shadrack said: The firmware on the panel is Premier 412 Version 7.1, would updating be possible for such an old panel? without bricking it. Forget firmware update no point  Now you know wire links allowed faults to clear because it's not setup for resistors  Possibly  But carry on , if you manage to programme it fine  If not you can use without resistors and global tamper if it has it  DIY no big deal how you do it 1 hour ago, Shadrack said: Changed to wire links. Reset config, disabled box tamper, let it boot up, reset time/date, all zone lights showed unlit. So progress I think? I then proceeded to add zone 3 (passage) as it's easier to test that while I'm busy with it since the keypad is 1m away from it. configured that zone as an interior instant NC. (Is this correct? it's the PIR from previous PIR picture), it does not detect when I stand there. the sensor itself lights up, the zone on the keypad does not. Also, that trouble light is illuminated still. Also you need to remove the resistor from the PIR , if your doing it without resistors,  If you join and open wire atnpir end that should open and close the zone , perhaps pirs are shot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadrack Posted August 9, 2019 Author Share Posted August 9, 2019 I've measured the resistance over the wires for zone 3, 3.3k, then when someone walks in front of it, changes to open circuit. PIR seems fine. Rechecked wiring. Seem's correct. used multimeter on panel side to confirm the same (in case a wire broke in the ceiling etc), works fine. I wire it up to zone 3 on the panel, so I should program it to: Zone: 03 zone type: 04 Interior instant zone wiring: Single EOL - N/C Partition: 1 Attributes 1: Enable Bell, Enable Instant Strobe, Enable transmission Attributes 2: Enable Manual Bypass, Enable stay bypass Attributes 3: none Zone text: passage  correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixwheeledbeast Posted August 9, 2019 Share Posted August 9, 2019 I imagine Single EOL S/C is the type you want Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadrack Posted August 9, 2019 Author Share Posted August 9, 2019 I've tried all, unless I select Normally Open, all list as "active", even when using jumpers direct from com to zone. Any advice on that? I am very confused at this point. PS, thanks for all your help so far everyone. I've indeed made progress through your help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixwheeledbeast Posted August 9, 2019 Share Posted August 9, 2019 There is a table in the wiring section to explain each wiring type and the state they should be. Single EOL S/C seems to be correct for your explanation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al-yeti Posted August 9, 2019 Share Posted August 9, 2019 2 hours ago, Shadrack said: I've tried all, unless I select Normally Open, all list as "active", even when using jumpers direct from com to zone. Any advice on that? I am very confused at this point. PS, thanks for all your help so far everyone. I've indeed made progress through your help! Single eolwould mean put resistor back in PIR if you removed it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadrack Posted August 10, 2019 Author Share Posted August 10, 2019 Does anyone have the newer firmware for the 412? I can only find the firmware for Premier elite, which this is not. trying to fix the issue of even all shorted, all zones say active/trouble Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixwheeledbeast Posted August 10, 2019 Share Posted August 10, 2019 It won't be firmware. It's all down to zone configuration somewhere. Nobody will ship a panel that has firmware that mean the zones dont work. Even if that was possible it would have been found upon installation and sent back not left screwed to your wall. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadrack Posted August 10, 2019 Author Share Posted August 10, 2019 No matter what I set the zone config to, it shows active. So.. thinking after all this, something is broken? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al-yeti Posted August 10, 2019 Share Posted August 10, 2019 23 minutes ago, Shadrack said: No matter what I set the zone config to, it shows active. So.. thinking after all this, something is broken? Thought you said when linking wires out , the zones clear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadrack Posted August 10, 2019 Author Share Posted August 10, 2019 Turns out when they were all clear, they were all set to Null zone type, out of all the zone types and wiring, unless set to "N/O" it shows active. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixwheeledbeast Posted August 10, 2019 Share Posted August 10, 2019 Well do they change state in any of the modes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadrack Posted August 10, 2019 Author Share Posted August 10, 2019 Nope, constant "active", even if I clear faults/disarm. First 4 zones (the only zones this PCB has) are all redlining. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixwheeledbeast Posted August 11, 2019 Share Posted August 11, 2019 It would be pretty rare to have a duff panel, if your going to blow something you would likely only break one circuit. having all the circuits do the same makes me still think a programming option. As I said I know Texe stuff pretty well but we rarely see international series over here, so I couldn't point you to the exact programming option from if that is what the issue is. My advice for testing panels zones would be to remove ALL other wiring (to remove possibility of a ground loop) and only use short pieces of wire and/or resistors to test your circuits. I imagine you need to be in walk test/zone status or some other mode that would trigger if a zone where activated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadrack Posted August 12, 2019 Author Share Posted August 12, 2019 (edited) Ok let's start from the top. As of typing this I have removed all wiring except siren, remote, power and AUX power to the sensors. all sensor signal wires are removed. NO jumpers/resistors in yet. the terminals are empty. The settings for the zones are all nulled as a starting point. Here's pics of everything so far: Â Edited August 12, 2019 by Shadrack added 1 more pic of the PCB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixwheeledbeast Posted August 12, 2019 Share Posted August 12, 2019 Type "Null" if there is no zone type it's not active. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadrack Posted August 12, 2019 Author Share Posted August 12, 2019 Yeah, I set null since nothing is plugged in, now, with nothing plugged in, I changed to 04 Interior Instant with zone wiring Normally Open. shows no fault. so open circuit. which is correct. as there is no jumper/resistor. NOW changing to Single EOL - S/C Tamper, now shows zone 4 active. Gonna go install a jumper/dupont cable for Zone 4 now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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