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Texecom OLD Premier/Veritas


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Good day all! I hope you can help.. I inherited an old (12+ year) Texecom alarm 4 zone (I see all the current stuff is 8 zone expandable) this is 4 solid expandable.. so.. discontinued maybe? which I'd like to restore to working condition. The tenants of the place didn't know the code. The landlords didn't know the code. The battery is long gone so I replaced the 12v battery, reset to default, and checked all the wiring. The keypad is an LED model saying "Premier". So I plug the battery in, plug AC in, it turns on. Of course all the lights are red etc along with the Trouble light. I got into Engineers mode with ##REMOVED## Mode 9, then I set date and time (options 95 and 96 ) and it's happy. I've tried to reprogram the zones, which I have mapped to figure what is where. it's 5 zones, 2 wired into 1 (both are the doors so that's fine.) The doors are standard reed switches (one broken, gonna replace this weekend), one in good working condition. zone 2 is lounge passive PIR, zone 3 is the passage, zone 4 is the bedroom. All passives have their indicator lights which flick on when I am in front of it. so all wired up fine. Using engineer mode to test siren and strobe, that all works. I tried to program all the zones, but after I am done, all the zone lights I programmed stay lit. They do not "trigger" when I walk in front of that zone, nor do they turn off.  I've reprogrammed multiple times and still the same. Any help would be amazing. I can supply more info if I've left anything out. The local alarm companies all say they won't reconfigure that unit and will happily rip it all out, dispose of it and install theirs, for a fee of course. (Yeah.. sure they'll be happy to do that..) not to mention they want to rip me off to even just come look at it.  Thanks in advance everyone/anyone!

Edited by sixwheeledbeast
No codes please
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2 minutes ago, Shadrack said:

The local alarm companies all say they won't reconfigure that unit and will happily rip it all out, dispose of it and install theirs, for a fee of course. (Yeah.. sure they'll be happy to do that..) not to mention they want to rip me off to even just come look at it.

 

wow, a company want to charge for an employee to ride around in van looking at people alarms ?

 

what a crazy world we live in... 

Mr? Veritas God

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4 minutes ago, james.wilson said:

I doubt most would 'rip you off' but I'm sure all would charge to come out

I live in South Africa so our currency is Rand, plus I live quite far away from the closest companies, they want between R500 and R600 to come have a look. excluding the work. a bit steep in my opinion considering they will add labour etc on top of that when they see it. Considering the newer LCD keypads are ~R1100, I could just double what they want and go get the new LCD keypad so I can at least see what's going on vs the LED keypad now. And considering when I DID hire someone to come do it a few years ago they charged R450 to look, R300 to "fix", they broke the strobe, which was working, broke a facia board, then said it's impossible to fix that unit and left. :/ So forgive me if I'm being critical of the experiences I've had trying to get it working

Edited by Shadrack
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7 hours ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

sounds like an old export model from what you have mentioned.

 

Capture.JPG.7b83126df242f330dbda783b528cca02.JPG

 

Possible, personally I would wait for more evidence though.

 

 

;)

So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands

 

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Take a look at zone 3.... looks like two circuits may of been wired in parallel (is this the zone where there are two detection devices on?) -

If there are two detectors on zone 3 then they must be wired in series 

Edited by aissecur
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Looks like a Premier 412 Export.

I can only suggest defaulting and programming again, there maybe something you have missed.

You need to find out if it's the circuit or the panel is at fault and then from there if the panel detects the zones or if it's programmed incorrectly.

If programming it may just be the circuit isn't in the correct area or something similar. We don't see the international series panels over here much so don't know the programming sequence in depth as a "normal" Prem.

 

Also as above the two circuits will not operate correctly in parallel although you say the reed is bust on one so for now it should be ok for the one that works.

Edited by sixwheeledbeast
typos that made no sense...
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8 hours ago, Shadrack said:

I live in South Africa so our currency is Rand, plus I live quite far away from the closest companies, they want between R500 and R600 to come have a look. excluding the work. a bit steep in my opinion considering they will add labour etc on top of that when they see it. Considering the newer LCD keypads are ~R1100, I could just double what they want and go get the new LCD keypad so I can at least see what's going on vs the LED keypad now. And considering when I DID hire someone to come do it a few years ago they charged R450 to look, R300 to "fix", they broke the strobe, which was working, broke a facia board, then said it's impossible to fix that unit and left. :/ So forgive me if I'm being critical of the experiences I've had trying to get it working

 

R600 appears to be £32.90 do I have the decimal point in the wrong place....

Mr? Veritas God

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It's all relative tho H, the average salary in SA is around 15000ZAR if your lucky whereas it's more like 30000GBP in the UK.

It's not just about the 18% exchange rate. From what I know security is more costly over there, I do agree it's all relative tho if you want the work done you pay the going price.

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1 hour ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

It's all relative tho H, the average salary in SA is around 15000ZAR if your lucky whereas it's more like 30000GBP in the UK.

It's not just about the 18% exchange rate. From what I know security is more costly over there, I do agree it's all relative tho if you want the work done you pay the going price.

Indeed.. if you are lucky.. I sadly earn less than half of that for 52+ hours of work a week. So I really do apologize to anyone offended/annoyed about me not wanting to pay someone else to do it.. and I do apologize for

wanting some basic security, I'm trying. I am electrically competent hence willing to delve into fixing it.

 

1 hour ago, aissecur said:

Its certainly an old panel, is there a yellow date stamp on the back of the panel pcb? (please only look if you are electrically competent and confident to do so)

 

Regarding the pictures requested, sure. Here they are 29.10.02. Yes the 2 in zone 3 are the 2x door reed switches. , sorry.  I did however do continuity tests on all of the wires and mapped them to their respective passives and reeds. I did  move them to zone one though. They had it wired so zone 1 was passage, zone 2 was lounge, zone 3 was door 1 and far bedroom and zone 4 was other door. which I felt it would be better to be a bit more structured. So I've put Zone 1 as the 2 doors, Zone 2 as the lounge, zone 3 as the passage and zone 4 as the bedroom so it makes a trail of where the sensors are in the house in that order, easier to follow movement that way. The sensors all light up when I walk in. Thank you all so far. (edited in: side note, I know the copper is exposed on those 2 wires, I will be redoing that shortly so they aren't exposed)

WhatsApp Image 2019-08-09 at 10.18.43.jpeg

WhatsApp Image 2019-08-09 at 10.30.28.jpeg

Edited by Shadrack
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54 minutes ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

It's all relative tho H,

 

to attend its 1/2 the local cost of a premier keypad

 

unless there are more taxes to pay there's little difference in cost of the item over UK prices

Mr? Veritas God

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1 hour ago, Shadrack said:

Indeed.. if you are lucky.. I sadly earn less than half of that for 52+ hours of work a week. So I really do apologize to anyone offended/annoyed about me not wanting to pay someone else to do it.. and I do apologize for

wanting some basic security, I'm trying. I am electrically competent hence willing to delve into fixing it.

 

 

Regarding the pictures requested, sure. Here they are 29.10.02. Yes the 2 in zone 3 are the 2x door reed switches. , sorry.  I did however do continuity tests on all of the wires and mapped them to their respective passives and reeds. I did  move them to zone one though. They had it wired so zone 1 was passage, zone 2 was lounge, zone 3 was door 1 and far bedroom and zone 4 was other door. which I felt it would be better to be a bit more structured. So I've put Zone 1 as the 2 doors, Zone 2 as the lounge, zone 3 as the passage and zone 4 as the bedroom so it makes a trail of where the sensors are in the house in that order, easier to follow movement that way. The sensors all light up when I walk in. Thank you all so far. (edited in: side note, I know the copper is exposed on those 2 wires, I will be redoing that shortly so they aren't exposed)

WhatsApp Image 2019-08-09 at 10.18.43.jpeg

WhatsApp Image 2019-08-09 at 10.30.28.jpeg

Can you upload a picture of a PIR wiring 

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It's around £60 for a 412 with keypad out there if that adds any context.

Anyway feel we are sliding off topic, OP feels competent to DIY and is in the DIY section?

 

If you do all the checks i listed above you will have an idea if it's the controls or not then you can proceed from there.

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1 hour ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

It's around £60 for a 412 with keypad out there if that adds any context.

Anyway feel we are sliding off topic, OP feels competent to DIY and is in the DIY section?

 

If you do all the checks i listed above you will have an idea if it's the controls or not then you can proceed from there.

All electricals seem fine, so I am pretty sure it's programming however even with the install manual I am struggling. As for the 2 zones wired together (the 2 doors on reed switches) I've traced the wiring and they've been wired in parallel with 2 different valued resistors. Would it work in parallel like this?

Edited by Shadrack
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36 minutes ago, Shadrack said:

All electricals seem fine, so I am pretty sure it's programming however even with the install manual I am struggling. As for the 2 zones wired together (the 2 doors on reed switches) I've traced the wiring and they've been wired in parallel with 2 different valued resistors. Would it work in parallel like this?

Label your wiring so you know what goes where 

 

Remove all the zones and get some resistors to fit at panel and prove the panel is working , resistors have to be the cheap bit 

 

Once lights go out and add a zone back at a time 

 

 

Alarm dudes on this panel is there a way to change eol etc ? I wonder if that's the issue 

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It appears the international series has allsorts of weird SEOL configurations look in the manual for wiring zones take note of the parallel "zone doubled" config you have to apply this to each circuit you wire this way.

If you have moved zones around in the panel this will be setup incorrectly.

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