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Texecom OLD Premier/Veritas


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8 hours ago, Shadrack said:

I live in South Africa so our currency is Rand, plus I live quite far away from the closest companies, they want between R500 and R600 to come have a look. excluding the work. a bit steep in my opinion considering they will add labour etc on top of that when they see it. Considering the newer LCD keypads are ~R1100, I could just double what they want and go get the new LCD keypad so I can at least see what's going on vs the LED keypad now. And considering when I DID hire someone to come do it a few years ago they charged R450 to look, R300 to "fix", they broke the strobe, which was working, broke a facia board, then said it's impossible to fix that unit and left. :/ So forgive me if I'm being critical of the experiences I've had trying to get it working

 

R600 appears to be £32.90 do I have the decimal point in the wrong place....

Mr? Veritas God

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It's all relative tho H, the average salary in SA is around 15000ZAR if your lucky whereas it's more like 30000GBP in the UK.

It's not just about the 18% exchange rate. From what I know security is more costly over there, I do agree it's all relative tho if you want the work done you pay the going price.

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1 hour ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

It's all relative tho H, the average salary in SA is around 15000ZAR if your lucky whereas it's more like 30000GBP in the UK.

It's not just about the 18% exchange rate. From what I know security is more costly over there, I do agree it's all relative tho if you want the work done you pay the going price.

Indeed.. if you are lucky.. I sadly earn less than half of that for 52+ hours of work a week. So I really do apologize to anyone offended/annoyed about me not wanting to pay someone else to do it.. and I do apologize for

wanting some basic security, I'm trying. I am electrically competent hence willing to delve into fixing it.

 

1 hour ago, aissecur said:

Its certainly an old panel, is there a yellow date stamp on the back of the panel pcb? (please only look if you are electrically competent and confident to do so)

 

Regarding the pictures requested, sure. Here they are 29.10.02. Yes the 2 in zone 3 are the 2x door reed switches. , sorry.  I did however do continuity tests on all of the wires and mapped them to their respective passives and reeds. I did  move them to zone one though. They had it wired so zone 1 was passage, zone 2 was lounge, zone 3 was door 1 and far bedroom and zone 4 was other door. which I felt it would be better to be a bit more structured. So I've put Zone 1 as the 2 doors, Zone 2 as the lounge, zone 3 as the passage and zone 4 as the bedroom so it makes a trail of where the sensors are in the house in that order, easier to follow movement that way. The sensors all light up when I walk in. Thank you all so far. (edited in: side note, I know the copper is exposed on those 2 wires, I will be redoing that shortly so they aren't exposed)

WhatsApp Image 2019-08-09 at 10.18.43.jpeg

WhatsApp Image 2019-08-09 at 10.30.28.jpeg

Edited by Shadrack
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54 minutes ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

It's all relative tho H,

 

to attend its 1/2 the local cost of a premier keypad

 

unless there are more taxes to pay there's little difference in cost of the item over UK prices

Mr? Veritas God

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1 hour ago, Shadrack said:

Indeed.. if you are lucky.. I sadly earn less than half of that for 52+ hours of work a week. So I really do apologize to anyone offended/annoyed about me not wanting to pay someone else to do it.. and I do apologize for

wanting some basic security, I'm trying. I am electrically competent hence willing to delve into fixing it.

 

 

Regarding the pictures requested, sure. Here they are 29.10.02. Yes the 2 in zone 3 are the 2x door reed switches. , sorry.  I did however do continuity tests on all of the wires and mapped them to their respective passives and reeds. I did  move them to zone one though. They had it wired so zone 1 was passage, zone 2 was lounge, zone 3 was door 1 and far bedroom and zone 4 was other door. which I felt it would be better to be a bit more structured. So I've put Zone 1 as the 2 doors, Zone 2 as the lounge, zone 3 as the passage and zone 4 as the bedroom so it makes a trail of where the sensors are in the house in that order, easier to follow movement that way. The sensors all light up when I walk in. Thank you all so far. (edited in: side note, I know the copper is exposed on those 2 wires, I will be redoing that shortly so they aren't exposed)

WhatsApp Image 2019-08-09 at 10.18.43.jpeg

WhatsApp Image 2019-08-09 at 10.30.28.jpeg

Can you upload a picture of a PIR wiring 

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It's around £60 for a 412 with keypad out there if that adds any context.

Anyway feel we are sliding off topic, OP feels competent to DIY and is in the DIY section?

 

If you do all the checks i listed above you will have an idea if it's the controls or not then you can proceed from there.

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1 hour ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

It's around £60 for a 412 with keypad out there if that adds any context.

Anyway feel we are sliding off topic, OP feels competent to DIY and is in the DIY section?

 

If you do all the checks i listed above you will have an idea if it's the controls or not then you can proceed from there.

All electricals seem fine, so I am pretty sure it's programming however even with the install manual I am struggling. As for the 2 zones wired together (the 2 doors on reed switches) I've traced the wiring and they've been wired in parallel with 2 different valued resistors. Would it work in parallel like this?

Edited by Shadrack
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36 minutes ago, Shadrack said:

All electricals seem fine, so I am pretty sure it's programming however even with the install manual I am struggling. As for the 2 zones wired together (the 2 doors on reed switches) I've traced the wiring and they've been wired in parallel with 2 different valued resistors. Would it work in parallel like this?

Label your wiring so you know what goes where 

 

Remove all the zones and get some resistors to fit at panel and prove the panel is working , resistors have to be the cheap bit 

 

Once lights go out and add a zone back at a time 

 

 

Alarm dudes on this panel is there a way to change eol etc ? I wonder if that's the issue 

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