james.wilson Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 Maybe not but I would. 1 securitywarehouse Security Supplies from Security Warehouse Trade Members please contact us for your TSI vetted trade discount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norman Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 As long as it's a good quality detector and there are no temperature fluctuations or draughts then a PIR would be OK, however for the difference I would use a DT. 1 Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1animal1 Posted October 31, 2016 Author Share Posted October 31, 2016 Thanks chaps - I was going to go for the Texecom mirrored quad @ £13 - the DT's appear to be more than double. No issue in paying the extra if it's worth it - I didn't know if the likelyhood of a fault is a lot higher for a quad or not...  I'm also going to have to solder a few wires if utilising the existing cabling - going to solder and heatshrink, any tips before i start.... Gather I would need to test resistance afterwards? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixwheeledbeast Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 You can always go the cheaper option but it's you that will be attending the false alarms. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1animal1 Posted October 31, 2016 Author Share Posted October 31, 2016 Fair comment   The reason for the question was that in reading, DT's for garages appear to be needed for wind/sudden temp changes/rodents & spiders - so with my garage being largely sealed, I wouldn't have thought it was required, but i suppose where your coming from is - better be safe given the menial extra cost Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixwheeledbeast Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 It would cost more to return and replace than fitting one in the first place. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datadiffusion Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 Any garage with a traditional uninsulated up-and-over garage door should not be considered 'sealed'.  If the sensor is to be hard wired (assume it will be one of the few detectors within reach of the panel) then, yes, it should be a DT. So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1animal1 Posted October 31, 2016 Author Share Posted October 31, 2016 That's sealed it then - DT it is ....this one will be hard wired facing the door itself, but into the back of the remote panel which will be in the hallway, mounted on the garage wall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixwheeledbeast Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 Always best to face a DT into the property and make sure you adjust the MW range correctly. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norman Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 I remember K band military being a revelation . Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james.wilson Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 oh the days of x vs k 1 securitywarehouse Security Supplies from Security Warehouse Trade Members please contact us for your TSI vetted trade discount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norman Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 K band , hands down . Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james.wilson Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 agreed anyone still using it? but the original dt700 wasn't quite right with it. securitywarehouse Security Supplies from Security Warehouse Trade Members please contact us for your TSI vetted trade discount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norman Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 Honeywell iirc  Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1animal1 Posted November 1, 2016 Author Share Posted November 1, 2016 (edited) Thanks chaps- is there a specific technique to adjust the MW range?  Also - does anyone know if the Texecom DT's come with resistors and also the resistor values required if not? (so i can get them ordered). Or will it be a simple case of a 2K2 across the alarm/tamper and a 4K7 across alarm/alarm terminated at the PIR, as seems to be the standard - each zone (one PIR per zone).  My main kit turned up yesterday and included an alarm box and some prox tags too, quite impressed considering they weren't advertised. Had a sneaky hour read through the installation (can only find the Premier Elite 24 guide online as opposed to the 24-W) and quick reference guide (included) - oh my life! This is going to be muchos fun programming  quite looking forward to the challenge once I've got it all hard wired in. Edited November 1, 2016 by 1animal1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norman Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 The MW usually has a pot to adjust it's easy identifiable. Turn the MW right off and then slowly adjust back on until it covers where you need it. 1 Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1animal1 Posted November 1, 2016 Author Share Posted November 1, 2016 Thanks Norman - so just a short trial and error walk exercise...sounds easy enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norman Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 Pay attention to the lights on the detector when walk testing, they will tell you if it's PIR or MW that is activating. Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1animal1 Posted November 1, 2016 Author Share Posted November 1, 2016 Thanks Norman - gather this will become clear on the PIR instruction leaflet?  I've just ordered a Texecom premier elite DT for this job - after debating over the specs of 4 different DT PIR's on their site...how do you guys choose? pick a favourite and stick with it?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixwheeledbeast Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 Follow the instructions in the box for setup. You should have enough resistors and jumpers in the kit boxes for your installation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norman Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 Most decent installers will monitor false alarms and subsequent root cause, this would then lead to product sourcing. Â Most others just buy the cheapest... 1 Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixwheeledbeast Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 Lots of reasons or choice of kit. I would only use higher quality sensors with sealed optics for example. Â If you are trying to keep the sensors looking the same then Texecom Elite all look the same wireless and wired so that could be a reason. Â Â 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1animal1 Posted November 1, 2016 Author Share Posted November 1, 2016 I guess scale is a key part - if you aren't fitting many (on your own or as a larger company) then your experience will be minimal when compared.  My methodology here in lieu of experience has been exactly as you have said ,six...same looks but also same brand to maintain continuity. I don't know enough to know whether different brands are compatible and how to remedy if they aren't - figure I'll remove that problem from the equation.  On another note - how many idiots on Ebay trying to flog Elite remote panels for £200! A child could google that and find the entire range around the £120 mark (guessing a lot less for trade). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1animal1 Posted November 1, 2016 Author Share Posted November 1, 2016 I've just read through the installation notes after having them emailed to me by Texecom (also on the software CD apparently - yet to venture).  It seems a bit of homework is required regarding the zones and the final settings. I have a front door which will have a contact, leading to hallway PIR where the keypad is situated, these would obviously need -Entry/Exit zone type with Access attribute. The rear door which gets used on occasion requires secondary Entry/Exit with Access attribute (PIR in kitchen where this back door leads will be off unless on full arm which will be rare). The rest of the house would be set to Guard with guard attribute - the variable being the zones included in the daytime or night time part arm.  It also looks like the zones default to certain parameters when adding Ricochet devices and various other wired additions - gather as long as I keep tabs on these in my plans when programming, there's no great benefit in reassigning them in numerical order (if possible). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrHappy Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 3 hours ago, 1animal1 said: On another note - how many idiots on Ebay trying to flog Elite remote panels for £200! A child could google that and find the entire range around the £120 mark (guessing a lot less for trade).  There a bit meh but I can buy Honeywell sensors via EBay at s much better price than any trade a/c I hold. Mr Veritas God Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts