bennynoneck Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 Hi. Just a quick question if I may. I'm looking to fit one tight up against my soffit but before I order one I see that it seems to be hinged at the top. Has anyone fitted one of these? If so could you tell me whether I can fit the cover without having to hinge it from the top? I was hoping to drop the cable through the soffit. Ta! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norman Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 Drill on an angle into the eaves Quote Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixwheeledbeast Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 Exactly. You will need a couple of inch clearance on the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bennynoneck Posted September 5, 2015 Author Share Posted September 5, 2015 How long of a drill bit am I going to need and what size? I was hoping to avoid it as that's probably going to be a long drill bit depending on the angle!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norman Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 300mm should suffice Quote Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bennynoneck Posted September 5, 2015 Author Share Posted September 5, 2015 Thanks. Any advice on angle or anything? Go with the angle of the roof or steeper? ts a mid 60's build - is it just going to be brick?? 10mm for 8core? I feel I trip into the loft tomorrow! Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norman Posted September 6, 2015 Share Posted September 6, 2015 Start roughly on the first course down and aim @ c45 degrees. Quote Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bennynoneck Posted September 6, 2015 Author Share Posted September 6, 2015 . The soffits hang over about about 2 courses already so that's going to be a long hole to drill. But it's gotta be done so all or the advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al-yeti Posted September 6, 2015 Share Posted September 6, 2015 . The soffits hang over about about 2 courses already so that's going to be a long hole to drill. But it's gotta be done so all or the advice. Have some Polyfila a ready for the room inside if you get it wrong Overhang doesn't matter, above suggested your drilling in the wall one course down 45angle , depends on how your house is made up , some have the inner wall in the way and you have to feel quite far down where the cable is , just shove loads of cable in from outside and if you don't have rods use a metal coat hanger as a hook to poke in from inside the roof to the eaves to find cable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adi Posted September 6, 2015 Share Posted September 6, 2015 metre drill bit here, makes it easier. Cheap nowadays. Quote I really can't be ar**** with it anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norman Posted September 6, 2015 Share Posted September 6, 2015 More difficult to handle up a ladder though... Quote Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bennynoneck Posted September 6, 2015 Author Share Posted September 6, 2015 Thanks. Know someone with 18 inch drill bit so should be enough!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adi Posted September 7, 2015 Share Posted September 7, 2015 More difficult to handle up a ladder though... I always use metre drill bit for bell cable, up a ladder, obviously you have to stand a rung or 2 down but i reckon its piss easy. Quote I really can't be ar**** with it anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al-yeti Posted September 7, 2015 Share Posted September 7, 2015 I always use metre drill bit for bell cable, up a ladder, obviously you have to stand a rung or 2 down but i reckon its piss easy. What drill? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adi Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 makita 24v sds Quote I really can't be ar**** with it anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bennynoneck Posted September 9, 2015 Author Share Posted September 9, 2015 I have a Hitachi SDS which should be up to the job. I'll probably end up going through the bloody roof knowing me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datadiffusion Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 (edited) makita 24v sds Yup same here with a massive drill bit. Finding cavities bridged at the top a lot now though, (houses approx 2000 onwards?) with thick cement laid onto a plastic former. That said if you're expecting it, one of the benefits of a long drill, just keep on going... Edited September 16, 2015 by datadiffusion Quote So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al-yeti Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 Yeah but you ever get the angle wrong? Kept going? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datadiffusion Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 Funny enough, only on my parents house, dormer which wasn't the same size as the other side of the room Quote So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichL Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 Replicate the angle of the roof as a guide and you shouldnt go far wrong. Quote Originally said by Charles Babbage On two occasions I have been asked [by members of Parliament], 'Pray, Mr. Babbage, if you put into the machine wrong figures, will the right answers come out?' I am not able rightly to apprehend the kind of confusion of ideas that could provoke such a question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datadiffusion Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 (edited) Yeah I was trying to be clever, it was a wooden framed nightmare, victorian hospital conversion with shallow roof and stud built interior walls built approx 1' out from the real walls (which themselves were a foot think and no cavity) No access to the stud cavity from above either due to layers and layers of opposing joists with new and old roof flooring! (I think it consists of original + 1950's + 2007 stuff) The roof would have once been used for storage (probably up to a certain time point) but even after that was boarded out to allow inspection of pipes etc... When the block was divided into townhouses, my parents got the original (stone built) staircase, but the later wooden 1950's era prefab stairs up to the loft was removed (we saw the pics - you can still see the opening into the loft (blocked with new plasterboard) and top of the handrail from the loft itself though! Sadly there are few other pics as the unit was very well guarded from closure in 1995 to building work not really that much later, starting from in 2005 with demolition of the 1950's/60s **** surrounding the listed victorian stuff, so it avoided the whole 'urbex' scene. Also my parents bit was the admin block anyway. Otherwise I'm pretty proud of my fishing history Edited September 16, 2015 by datadiffusion Quote So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adi Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 Yup same here with a massive drill bit. Finding cavities bridged at the top a lot now though, (houses approx 2000 onwards?) with thick cement laid onto a plastic former. That said if you're expecting it, one of the benefits of a long drill, just keep on going... Cavities were always supposed to be closed, capped off, but most builders didnt. Cavities now are generally not closed to remove the thermal bridge, but the insulation in the cavity carries on up through the loft in one continuous sheet for want of a better word. Should be no gaps. As Rich says, all common sense. Quote I really can't be ar**** with it anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timmo66 Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 That said if you're expecting it, one of the benefits of a long drill, just keep on going... until you poke through the tiles..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datadiffusion Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 lol! Cavities were always supposed to be closed, capped off, but most builders didnt. Cavities now are generally not closed to remove the thermal bridge, but the insulation in the cavity carries on up through the loft in one continuous sheet for want of a better word. Should be no gaps. You learn something new every day! Quote So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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