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Keeping A 7Ah Charged Via 12V In Vehicle


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I am up for the 7ah battery solution, I have a pergot van and all it want to do is stop you using electric to power anything. It goes into Eco mode so you can only have about 30 seconds of light when you open the back doors. What twit thought that was good on a van.

 

I like the cigarette lighter solution so I can't be blamed it the electrics goes tits up.

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Looking at the schematic from earlier it looks like it just boosts the voltage up and puts it through a regulator. Then put a diode in series to drop it a little and stop reverse current flow.

 

The question is we will have 14v ish from the cigarette lighter socket when the engine is running so can you just use the diode to stop reverse current flow and also drop the voltage a bit so as not to cook the 7ah battery.

 

Also is there an easy way to stop it charging when the 7ah battery is full. All the kits I have seen seems to be for the larger leisure batteries.

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Not sensitive, I think people take forums and constructive critisism to heart too quickly.

Purely providing some quality instead of banter.

I can banter like the next tool, but if members answer every topic with pages of banter, you just phishing people off and more importantly provide no content. Worth pointing out IMO.

Sorted no problem

You guys ever etch your own pcb's when making circuits or was it Vero board was it called where you cut the tracks etc

Used to be all good then industry changed.....

I used to buy the pellets and the pens Mark it all out drill it

No time of course now

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You guys ever etch your own pcb's when making circuits or was it Vero board was it called where you cut the tracks etc

Used to be all good then industry changed.....

I used to buy the pellets and the pens Mark it all out drill it

No time of course now

Never made anything for work, I have etched stuff in the past but prefer stripboard now.

Less messy and the tanks take up too much room.

You can make some good stuff pretty quickly with it. You just have to get your head around being economical with the strips.

http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/topic/34295-make-your-own-noise-free-power-supply-unit/

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As above, modules from fleebay are actually quite well made too, and the arduino craze only makes it better pricing and quality.

 

Just bought 3 mic modules I would have made myself in the past for pennies, and they use proper branded preamp ICs

So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands

 

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Hi

 

As led's use very low current and if the van and battery are in good shape and is a 096 battery which most renault nissan and vauxhall vans are the ah rating is up near 60 to 70ah and a led strip uses little current but you could measure it to see the amout it uses. how long will they be on with out the engine running.

Also I suspect even using a split charge relay with a alternator able to push out 90-150 amps will damage the battery. I would buy a proper charger for that type off battery even if its one that plugs in to the 12v socket on your van.

 

A quick fact if you use jump leads from a car to a motorbike battery with the car running it will damage the bike battery. ( I supect the same will happen to a security battery )

 

If it was me I would fit the led's and connect up but use the main battery power and possible up grade the van battery to a AGM 096 these have about 800 amp cranking power and 90ah. I will be amazed if you even make it go flat with just an led strip  running at 1/2 amp looking quickly at a set i found

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As led's use very low current and if the van and battery are in good shape and is a 096 battery which most renault nissan and vauxhall vans are the ah rating is up near 60 to 70ah and a led strip uses little current but you could measure it to see the amout it uses. how long will they be on with out the engine running.

I expect a van of that size to have a type 017 battery, but I don't see that being an issue here anyway.

I was referring to current of the LED's regarding using the existing wiring feed, so not to overload the loom.

LED's should take less current than the existing festoon type bulb if you are to replace that.

Also I suspect even using a split charge relay with a alternator able to push out 90-150 amps will damage the battery. I would buy a proper charger for that type off battery even if its one that plugs in to the 12v socket on your van.

I was expecting to use a car type battery and not an SLA for the split charge setup.

This is worth pointing out a split charge unit is designed for two automotive batteries and not our SLA's

If it was me I would fit the led's and connect up but use the main battery power and possible up grade the van battery to a AGM 096 these have about 800 amp cranking power and 90ah. I will be amazed if you even make it go flat with just an led strip  running at 1/2 amp looking quickly at a set i found

I agree I would be looking at using the existing battery over another battery myself.

I still wouldn't worry about the battery as long as the lights aren't accidentally left on for days.

Just for future reference have a Kemo M102 module plugged into my cigarette socket to charge my DIY test monitor SLA batteries.

I still think for van lighting wiring off the vehicle would be best.

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I am up for the 7ah battery solution, I have a pergot van and all it want to do is stop you using electric to power anything. It goes into Eco mode so you can only have about 30 seconds of light when you open the back doors. What twit thought that was good on a van.

I like the cigarette lighter solution so I can't be blamed it the electrics goes tits up.

I have the same van and the eco mode does my head in , can't see how eco friendly it is when instead of just using the battery I then start the engine to have some lights and music on!

Transits were good for keeping things running , just had to watch it didn't flatten the battery.

Happened once in my old combo van. 3rd party radio sometimes didn't turn off as the key barrel was shot and sometimes didn't turn the ignition off even with the key out.

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I expect a van of that size to have a type 017 battery, but I don't see that being an issue here anyway.

I was referring to current of the LED's regarding using the existing wiring feed, so not to overload the loom.

LED's should take less current than the existing festoon type bulb if you are to replace that.

I was expecting to use a car type battery and not an SLA for the split charge setup.

This is worth pointing out a split charge unit is designed for two automotive batteries and not our SLA's

I agree I would be looking at using the existing battery over another battery myself.

I still wouldn't worry about the battery as long as the lights aren't accidentally left on for days.

Just for future reference have a Kemo M102 module plugged into my cigarette socket to charge my DIY test monitor SLA batteries.

I still think for van lighting wiring off the vehicle would be best.

I may have miss read I thought someone was trying to use a 7ah SLA battery with a split charge. Speed reading not my thing

 

Also if you try hard enough you can sqeeze a 019 battery on a renault traffic or vauxhall vivaro but i wouldn't bother I fitted an AGM 096 it is a better battery. My wifes focus ST has one on now as well. I am with AGM like people are with galaxy :-

 

As for the loom, You could use a relay to make sure you don't over load the circuit,loom or the BCM ( french call it UCH but it the same thing)

But like you said take the bulb out and make sure the current is the same or less and the will be no fear of an over load. If you do use a relay it may show a fault in the diagnostics in BCM

 

The other option is buy a new ford transit custom with dual battery that self jump starts it self and had led lights already fitted in the back :-  ha ha

I have the same van and the eco mode does my head in , can't see how eco friendly it is when instead of just using the battery I then start the engine to have some lights and music on!

Transits were good for keeping things running , just had to watch it didn't flatten the battery.

Happened once in my old combo van. 3rd party radio sometimes didn't turn off as the key barrel was shot and sometimes didn't turn the ignition off even with the key out.

Eco mode is to stop you making the battery flat, It maybe should be called wally mode :hmm: but its not fool proof

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Eco mode is to stop you making the battery flat, It maybe should be called wally mode :hmm: but its not fool proof

 

Yep we know that, it would be nice to be able to listen to  the radio for half an hour without starting the engine. And have interia lights that will stay on for more than 30 seconds on a bad day.

 

Some one has lost the plot on how vans are used.

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Yep we know that, it would be nice to be able to listen to  the radio for half an hour without starting the engine. And have interia lights that will stay on for more than 30 seconds on a bad day.

 

Some one has lost the plot on how vans are used.

Only the french have lost the plot. they seem to be the only ones at the moment with eco mode. If you breakdown put your windows up if they are electric as after it goes into eco mode you end up with open windows untill its fixed ha ha ha ha

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As for the loom, You could use a relay to make sure you don't over load the circuit

In that case you may as well take a feed straight from the battery (via a fuse obv.) and feck the relay off.

Some one has lost the plot on how vans are used.

I agree it is a pain, but they are mostly based on car parts so have these muppet proof features.

I believe Eco mode measures the vehicle voltage and has a threshold to cut equipment off.

The idea being you always have the capacity to start the vehicle, this is why switching the ign/engine on/off quickly doesn't work.

On a Partner for example you can press the dark button to switch off the screen, which will keep the radio on 30 minutes longer.

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In that case you may as well take a feed straight from the battery (via a fuse obv.) and feck the relay off.I agree it is a pain, but they are mostly based on car parts so have these muppet proof features.I believe Eco mode measures the vehicle voltage and has a threshold to cut equipment off.The idea being you always have the capacity to start the vehicle, this is why switching the ign/engine on/off quickly doesn't work.On a Partner for example you can press the dark button to switch off the screen, which will keep the radio on 30 minutes longer.

not on a combo it doesn't,I left ignition on to charge my phone yesterday while I pottered around the front garden,aa van here this morning as the battery was flat and it wouldn't start

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not on a combo it doesn't,I left ignition on to charge my phone yesterday while I pottered around the front garden,aa van here this morning as the battery was flat and it wouldn't start

I have two 12v sockets one is live all the time. I use the one thats live to charge things like my phone. modified a halfords one with a live taken from the battery (via a Fuse) No ign on, van can be locked as well.

 

With the ign on your current drain/draw is at about 3.5 to 5 amps some times more, The landrover range rover is 9 amps. but does have a 950 amp 110 ah AGM battery.

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