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False Tampers Eurosec Cp8l Lcd


robf781

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Hi Guy's

I'm not an alarm installer but I am a tradesman (gas technician) and I'm studying 17th edition shortly (already got part P) so I'm fairly confident with electrics etc. I know you cannot divulge any security affecting information over this site so please feel free to point out if the question I'm asking is too sensitive to answer.

My question is this, I moved into my house about a year ago and the alarm has been fine all that time (except for 1 tamper when I tried to remove a sensor for decorating :oops: ) but recently I have been getting lots of tamper alarms at random times through the day. It doesn't seem to be caused by any particular room, any particular time or weather conditions, or any other constant I can think of. I've gone round and sort of waggled all the sensors including the door open sensor, the control panel and the control box (but not the bell box) and none of this has caused it to go off.

I was just after some idea of if there's anything I can do DIY to try and locate the fault. An engineer in the street told me it might be the battery, is this true and if so can I replace it myself or does it need to be done by an engineer? I have the master code for the system but obviously don't have any engineer codes (and don't want them either).

Should I start removing the covers for the detectors and checking the tamper springs? Or should I trace the cables and test for continuity? I have heeard it might be caused by the tamper sensor in the external box corroding which I'm sure will mean calling someone out unless they are easy enough to replace.

Any help would be appreciated, I'm a bit skint at the min so don't fancy paying someone else to do the work unless I have to (ie. I'll do what I can before calling someone out).

cheers People. :rolleyes:

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Each time the internal sounder goes and you enter your code you will get a display coming up. This should narrow it down quite a lot. If you havent noticed it should be in the log (memory). Let us know

what it is and we may be able to help further.

Wilks

Just says ??????Check?????? then when I enter my code it says Tamper, but nothing else. Wait a moment I'll check the log see if it tells me anything extra.

Just says ??????Check?????? then when I enter my code it says Tamper, but nothing else. Wait a moment I'll check the log see if it tells me anything extra.

Checked the log and that's the same, just states the date and time and "tamper" nothing else. Thanks for helping out :yes:

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that panel has a 'global' tamper so it could be

any of the sensors

any of the doors

any of the sounders

any of the keypads

the panel itself.

youll need to track it down a bit mate.

James

It's not the keypad as that comes up with keypad tamper, so it must be any of the other stuff. Where do I start though......

I have one door sensor, 3 PIR's, and the main keypad and panel in the hallway. Only a small system.

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only one way really, you need to test each device's tamper switch then if youdont find it, check the cable.

Are they just simple 2 wire switchs (ie. you just test for continuity) or is it more complicated?

Also if I can't find it in the house, when I open the bell box (when the system is not armed) will the alarm go off fully or will it just do the usual tamper alarm? Any ideas?

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Guest anguscanplay
when I open the bell box (when the system is not armed) will the alarm go off fully or will it just do the usual tamper alarm? Any ideas?

that will indicate as a seperate item in the log

new carpets recently?

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that will indicate as a seperate item in the log

new carpets recently?

Nope, everything just as it was the last few months. Only difference being a few recent power cuts lasting about an hour each.

I'm glad the bellbox would log seperately cause that means I don't have to touch it.

cheers

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Remove the wires from the global 'tamper' in the panel, just right of the alarm ccts and insert a wire link between the 2 terminal this will eliminate the tampers for the detection ccts. If you still have the problem then its one of the other possibilities. Is there a date on your battery normally found on the top and probably backwards, first 2 digits tend to indicate the year. Test the voltage of the battery.

As the days go by, we face the increasing inevitability that we are alone in a godless, uninhabited, hostile and meaningless universe. Still, you've got to laugh, haven't you?

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as VIPER says,

if no problems after say week introduce half the tampers back in for a period say over the weekend so your aroud to shut it down.

i don't know how often it activates, but alternatively if you have spare alarm zones, split up and connect the tampers to them. may mean a few false alarms but will soon show which one is at fault.

to reduce the annoyance do this saterday morning and set the alarm go wash the car whatever, if it trips your close by to deal with it.

take a really good look at all the connections in the panel and the detectors, alarms run on very small currents so intermittent connections offer a dearth of false alarms. so make sure the wires are held by the inner conductors and don't move when pushed and pulled, and are not crimped by the plastic sheath.

the tampers will be in series, so lok at the way they have ben connected together, i'd remake these connections stripping about 3/4 inch, twisting up tightly, folding over then back into a terminal block - NEVER tape connections, the adhesive decays the wires become dirty, coated in gunge and intermittent and/or shorts result.

regs

alan

If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!

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As you have part P I'm guessing you have meter and know how to use it.

remove the tamper wires from the panel as others have suggested then meter for continuity, the actual value you get will vary depending on length of cable runs and whether or not the tamper switches are protected by an in line resistor.

The important thing is that the reading is stable, if you meter the tamper circuit of each cable individually it will highlight any that appear excessively high.

Anything higher than 3 or 4 ohms in an average sized house would make me look twice.

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As you have part P I'm guessing you have meter and know how to use it.

remove the tamper wires from the panel as others have suggested then meter for continuity, the actual value you get will vary depending on length of cable runs and whether or not the tamper switches are protected by an in line resistor.

The important thing is that the reading is stable, if you meter the tamper circuit of each cable individually it will highlight any that appear excessively high.

Anything higher than 3 or 4 ohms in an average sized house would make me look twice.

That's exactly what I was looking for, I'll do a bit of both. I'll link out the tamper circuit and test for continuity on the whole ring before I start looking further. Thanks for the help folks.

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Try removing the speaker so all that will activate will be the keypad sounder, unless of course the bell is set to ring on a tamper. If that is the case then apart from some small reprogramming, remove the -ve bell trigger from the panel.

As the days go by, we face the increasing inevitability that we are alone in a godless, uninhabited, hostile and meaningless universe. Still, you've got to laugh, haven't you?

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There are several ways to tamper a circuit, these include DEOL or separate tamper circuits.

You need to determine which method has been used, and test accordingly.

Don't just test continuity, test resistance.

Also check for fluctuations, etc.

Regards

NitroN

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  • 2 months later...
There are several ways to tamper a circuit, these include DEOL or separate tamper circuits.

You need to determine which method has been used, and test accordingly.

Don't just test continuity, test resistance.

Also check for fluctuations, etc.

Regards

NitroN

the eurosec just uses a global tamper circuit, so no need to worry about end of line wiring etc. but testing resistance would tell you of any possibly dodgy cabling. identify the alarm loop and tamper loop to each detector, remove the wiring at the detector and twist alarm pair together, and tamper pair together. resistance reading should be identical on both loops. do this for every detector. as was mentioned earlier the RKP and bell tampers are seperate and are signalled on the panel accordingly. ive installed well over 200 of these (maybe more) in the last 2 years, in my experience they are very tempramental when the battery is low, if youve had a fair few power cuts recently that may have caused the battery to run down. im sure a lot of the guys on here are much more experienced in the industry than me but ive seen so many of these panels im sick of the sight of them lol. hope u get sorted pal

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