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False Tampers Eurosec Cp8l Lcd


robf781

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Remove the wires from the global 'tamper' in the panel, just right of the alarm ccts and insert a wire link between the 2 terminal this will eliminate the tampers for the detection ccts. If you still have the problem then its one of the other possibilities. Is there a date on your battery normally found on the top and probably backwards, first 2 digits tend to indicate the year. Test the voltage of the battery.

As the days go by, we face the increasing inevitability that we are alone in a godless, uninhabited, hostile and meaningless universe. Still, you've got to laugh, haven't you?

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as VIPER says,

if no problems after say week introduce half the tampers back in for a period say over the weekend so your aroud to shut it down.

i don't know how often it activates, but alternatively if you have spare alarm zones, split up and connect the tampers to them. may mean a few false alarms but will soon show which one is at fault.

to reduce the annoyance do this saterday morning and set the alarm go wash the car whatever, if it trips your close by to deal with it.

take a really good look at all the connections in the panel and the detectors, alarms run on very small currents so intermittent connections offer a dearth of false alarms. so make sure the wires are held by the inner conductors and don't move when pushed and pulled, and are not crimped by the plastic sheath.

the tampers will be in series, so lok at the way they have ben connected together, i'd remake these connections stripping about 3/4 inch, twisting up tightly, folding over then back into a terminal block - NEVER tape connections, the adhesive decays the wires become dirty, coated in gunge and intermittent and/or shorts result.

regs

alan

If you think education is difficult, try being stupid!!!!

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As you have part P I'm guessing you have meter and know how to use it.

remove the tamper wires from the panel as others have suggested then meter for continuity, the actual value you get will vary depending on length of cable runs and whether or not the tamper switches are protected by an in line resistor.

The important thing is that the reading is stable, if you meter the tamper circuit of each cable individually it will highlight any that appear excessively high.

Anything higher than 3 or 4 ohms in an average sized house would make me look twice.

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As you have part P I'm guessing you have meter and know how to use it.

remove the tamper wires from the panel as others have suggested then meter for continuity, the actual value you get will vary depending on length of cable runs and whether or not the tamper switches are protected by an in line resistor.

The important thing is that the reading is stable, if you meter the tamper circuit of each cable individually it will highlight any that appear excessively high.

Anything higher than 3 or 4 ohms in an average sized house would make me look twice.

That's exactly what I was looking for, I'll do a bit of both. I'll link out the tamper circuit and test for continuity on the whole ring before I start looking further. Thanks for the help folks.

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Try removing the speaker so all that will activate will be the keypad sounder, unless of course the bell is set to ring on a tamper. If that is the case then apart from some small reprogramming, remove the -ve bell trigger from the panel.

As the days go by, we face the increasing inevitability that we are alone in a godless, uninhabited, hostile and meaningless universe. Still, you've got to laugh, haven't you?

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There are several ways to tamper a circuit, these include DEOL or separate tamper circuits.

You need to determine which method has been used, and test accordingly.

Don't just test continuity, test resistance.

Also check for fluctuations, etc.

Regards

NitroN

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  • 2 months later...
There are several ways to tamper a circuit, these include DEOL or separate tamper circuits.

You need to determine which method has been used, and test accordingly.

Don't just test continuity, test resistance.

Also check for fluctuations, etc.

Regards

NitroN

the eurosec just uses a global tamper circuit, so no need to worry about end of line wiring etc. but testing resistance would tell you of any possibly dodgy cabling. identify the alarm loop and tamper loop to each detector, remove the wiring at the detector and twist alarm pair together, and tamper pair together. resistance reading should be identical on both loops. do this for every detector. as was mentioned earlier the RKP and bell tampers are seperate and are signalled on the panel accordingly. ive installed well over 200 of these (maybe more) in the last 2 years, in my experience they are very tempramental when the battery is low, if youve had a fair few power cuts recently that may have caused the battery to run down. im sure a lot of the guys on here are much more experienced in the industry than me but ive seen so many of these panels im sick of the sight of them lol. hope u get sorted pal

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