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Hopefully nobody noticed but there have been a few upgrades on tsi. Mainly aiming for speed improvement on mobile mainly if anyone has seen a speed increase.

get your property to finished surfaces - oh, I think I have a burglar alarm....

If you do get a supply of them... unlikely to get a large quantity from a wholesaler if they even have them listed; I would suggest to replace as part of any maintenance. The transparent wiring cover will easily flick out at the hinge with correct application of a flat screwdriver, so you could have covers ready to go with spare wiring covers (buy a few dummies). I know it's not the point but you could consider getting some adhesive 12v LED tape instead, most thinner stuff can be cut at 8-10cm sections make them up ready to go. It's less hassle to go forward using the same box if you want, but not offering or connecting the illumination. As I say I don't offer illuminated sounders every now and then a new customer enquires about them, I ask if they have or have applied for planning permission to have one and then explain the details of this. If the customer even wanted to put the effort in to apply, your unlikely to get it granted in a domestic situation. No neighbour wants to look at your light up advert looking across the road in the evening... more importantly, I don't feel they should have to either.

Isn't the iwise bus a bus detector that will only work on a risco panel? You have also probably blown the fuse or panel. Wires shouldn't 'touch'

Tat alarms & naff doorbells is what the public want...

I know its warm, but put your dressing gown on...

Just consider permanently illuminated external sounders require planning permission, if the decal space is used. I would disable anyway. Make sure the controls are in full working order, charging rates, voltages etc; before only replacing the siren.

Sounds like someone else over specced and it ended up in your van...

AIUI in that situation it's still all the same rules and repayments but HMRC no longer have access to your tax code or income, so you have to provide evidence. If you disappear your rate is charged the maximum monthly amount and you are charged interest on late payments.

i think we will have to agree to disagree Al

everything should be encrypted especially in security unless i missed the sarcasm?

My email is a gmail not a business one, I set it up when I bought my cameras from them so I don't get marketing emails. If the splitters are tat I won't use them

Mice fart louder than most current external sounders Sticking lots of stuff on the alarm means lost of current drawn in alarm all my P24 need 9Ah batterys

There can be unforeseen planning permission issues and they are unnecessary light pollution. You can fit them without connecting the backlight on the X's, but can purchase the twin siren non-X ones for similar price. Covering a new box with what I guess is some old C-Type cover would remove the deterrent of a shiny new box and reduce sound output. If you are thinking of not buying a lid for this sounder it just will not work, they need a compatible lid.

Yeah sorry about that it's been on/off so many times

this is the windows one which is part of the full tablet app that runs the engineers fault finding tracking etc

searching for TSI in his emails, as he's expecting a compo claim for his Traumatic Sexual Injury in the prison showers ?

I assume his McManison was built with stolen stuff & he's just got out of HMP Forest Bank ?

I wouldn't be messing about arguing with a customer and looking at a website at the side of the motorway. If already paid I'm doing it or not and then GTFOASAP. Agreed, complete idiot of a customer and the terms seem fine considering your paying for the convenience of call out with equipment and danger of working in live traffic. Altho TBF tyre is cheap Chinese thing replacing a Bridgestone, but he's right they are a stupid size and like a rubber band so probably an arse to fit. Does it matter to get you home and off the motorway... the longer your on the shoulder more chance a HGV wipes you out...

Smoke alarm

Never heard of brooks before internet, thorn was finishing off as I was getting going... IIRC

Looks like the chequebook lads thanks for all your replies.

the internet says its does upto D1 / 960H ?

It will only record in analogue resolutions even if converted, not recommended. Some machines are "hybrid" so you map IP's to the channels, this usually requires PoE elsewhere and detecting cams from the WAN. Just replace the lot with new Samsung. Seems a shame to get rid of a decent DVR but if 960H isn't good enough now (new cams?), you need to start again.

I have mad ideas for charities- A homeless outreach, we pick up all the street drinkers, get 'em cheap suits/ frocks from matalan & hit the ebor festival...

There are planning permission issues for installers fitting illuminated boxes on most sites anyway. I wouldn't ever fit them, in fact I have removed a good few of the LED strips from these Ody X's over the years. Given some more time now from the OP I'd say 25% that I removed have eventually become flaky or failed. Pretty simple to remove, it's a clever design having it modular like that; although I suspect they may have been running a bit hot. Have seen two different LED types one better than the other. The modules that do continue to work, nicely modify into decent camping lights...

You can also use an RS232 lead connected to the panel. From your other thread, it sounds like you already have the RS232 connection sorted out, so the cheapest option would be to use that. Note that the upgrade wipes the settings, so be sure to perform a complete site backup before the flash upgrade.

what could go Wong ?

The only solid state smoke ive come across is when you accidently put the wrong voltage in something. This generally lets the smoke out of it. Ive found that its the smoke that makes electronic stuff work, because once you have let all the smoke out of a component it never works again.

Normally your final exit doors would be 'final' you entry route zones would be exit. The use intruder for the rest not on the entry /exit route

I have seen many diffrent installation styles over the years, Clips vs staples, surface run vs hidden, taught vs slack. Personaly I take pride in my 1st fix and cabling and do it properly but that does slow you down. The work I observed with a contractor on a new build housing estate was so slopppy that I pulled him up on it, his justification was that he had targets to hit and they dont pay him enough to give a **** And there seems to be the problem paying **** money to general contractors under pressure to get the job done as quickly as possible. If I had paid good money for a new house I would expect the cable for the window sensor to be run through the upvc window frame and under the window sill not surface run and poorly clipped As mentioned BS7671 is a good place to start for general regs

Yeah

Yes a daisy chain the resistors at each end. However if the runs are short they won't be needed

White light filters minimise the risk of a FA, sometimes installations don't lend themselves to installing the best way. Especially in retro situations. Often for example on a landing the best corner is over the stairs. I wouldn't install there due to future access issues so then your usually left with facing a window. They have some tolerance but you minimise the risks just like anything else. I'm not saying a good quality quad couldn't be fine. When you have the option available you install them in the best possible corners. Which the simple version is always pointing away from sources of light and heat (the sun) and perpendicular to the movement of any possible intruder. All manufacturers instructions say this and if you ignore it and have a false alarm it's your own fault. Had a job Tuesday were some tool had pointed a Honeywell PIR at a patio door in an open plan extension, it had false alarmed every day all the week prior. The system is 5 months old fitted by some clueless spark (scribbled colours/terminals on manuals...), seems to be a mess. It's only just started these FA's but you can see from the time in the log it's happening during the day when it's competing with the sun on the back patio. Re-siting has solved it, maybe a quad could but I don't see that as the correct solution... it's just a workaround, the bad positioning was the issue and would still be there IMO. Anyway, tis true G3 is pointless at a DIY level, it's much greater chance of headaches than ever genuinely detecting what it's there for. It could also affect everything I am saying about positioning. For example, they are designed for open commercial spaces if your fitting in corners with possibly of curtains or tall furniture you may have to consider a less ideal corner. Master bed you have cupboard doors opening onto the ideal corners, this will likely cause a mask. Or if not and maybe you left the doors open you have no detection. There is more to design than the ideal manufacturers instructions or looking at top view building plans and more unnecessary issues to jungle throwing G3 components in the mix.

Thanks for the welcome messages guys... I've managed to track down a suitable course. Booked in next month ? Will update this thread with my experience and looking forward to getting my first install ?

Holiday let in spain or similar ?? You be better off with an enforcer than than the stuff your googling for Shocks, Dt801's & flood sensors... Treat yourself to a big tube-

Hi and welcome I work four days a week including Wednesdays but we dont fit Pyronix or Hik if we can help it

Zamunda ?

Do you like cigars & chunky jewellery ?

Your engineer code is different from what your trying

As I've decided this is a furry free zone thanks for your comments but please don't any more. However if your normal human self wants to that's fine. I will add for some reason this to the terms and conditions.

ding dong...

none of the ones listed....

here's a car from 1994- do you seen many in daily use ?

It's been said before but your going have much less hassle installing a full system with kit all matched together. Some decent IP turrets will send and receive audio and alarms from the camera itself using TCP/IP. No messing about trying to make different manufacturers compatible with each other. Single wire to each location with options of better image quality over 4-format turrets. Unlikely to get more than 10-15m out of USB peripherals without some conversion. Have used HDMI/USB combiners myself to solve similar.

Engineer would be liable for any fault leading to injury or death just like with fire, so I would refuse to do any of it without correct training. Plenty of jail sentences and fines in the news... Also insurance for the company is higher if you add gates to your services, either specialise and train correctly for it or sub IMO. Gate-safe is one path of training, which is a ECS discipline. https://www.hse.gov.uk/work-equipment-machinery/powered-gates/safety.htm https://www.hse.gov.uk/safetybulletins/poweredgates.htm https://gate-safe.org/ As above suppliers will have their own scheme but it's going to be based on their supplied kit.

some bloke banged a holesaw though the lid & added a keyswitch does the key say 901 or 827 on it ?

I do my dept head's house alarm (can't remember him) I used to do my primary school teachers house alarm, IIRC in the class was 6 lads sat in the table in the middle 5 of 'em called Dave

As many of you will know im extending my own Home assistant system. I have noticed some support for what i would call 'proper' control equipment rather than the toy town stuff more traditionally supported. I see texecom have a mqtt Texecom2mqtt: Texecom alarm panel and MQTT integration with HA support - Third party integrations - Home Assistant Community (home-assistant.io) Vanderbilt have Vanderbilt SPC - Home Assistant (home-assistant.io) Galaxy Guy has one for Honeywell Galaxy (im sure he will post more info) Hikvision GitHub - zoilomora/hikvision-to-mqtt: Sends alarm events from Hikvision DVR to MQTT