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Hopefully nobody noticed but there have been a few upgrades on tsi. Mainly aiming for speed improvement on mobile mainly if anyone has seen a speed increase.

get your property to finished surfaces - oh, I think I have a burglar alarm....

If you do get a supply of them... unlikely to get a large quantity from a wholesaler if they even have them listed; I would suggest to replace as part of any maintenance. The transparent wiring cover will easily flick out at the hinge with correct application of a flat screwdriver, so you could have covers ready to go with spare wiring covers (buy a few dummies). I know it's not the point but you could consider getting some adhesive 12v LED tape instead, most thinner stuff can be cut at 8-10cm sections make them up ready to go. It's less hassle to go forward using the same box if you want, but not offering or connecting the illumination. As I say I don't offer illuminated sounders every now and then a new customer enquires about them, I ask if they have or have applied for planning permission to have one and then explain the details of this. If the customer even wanted to put the effort in to apply, your unlikely to get it granted in a domestic situation. No neighbour wants to look at your light up advert looking across the road in the evening... more importantly, I don't feel they should have to either.

Isn't the iwise bus a bus detector that will only work on a risco panel? You have also probably blown the fuse or panel. Wires shouldn't 'touch'

Tat alarms & naff doorbells is what the public want...

I know its warm, but put your dressing gown on...

Just consider permanently illuminated external sounders require planning permission, if the decal space is used. I would disable anyway. Make sure the controls are in full working order, charging rates, voltages etc; before only replacing the siren.

Sounds like someone else over specced and it ended up in your van...

AIUI in that situation it's still all the same rules and repayments but HMRC no longer have access to your tax code or income, so you have to provide evidence. If you disappear your rate is charged the maximum monthly amount and you are charged interest on late payments.

everything should be encrypted especially in security unless i missed the sarcasm?

My email is a gmail not a business one, I set it up when I bought my cameras from them so I don't get marketing emails. If the splitters are tat I won't use them

Mice fart louder than most current external sounders Sticking lots of stuff on the alarm means lost of current drawn in alarm all my P24 need 9Ah batterys

There can be unforeseen planning permission issues and they are unnecessary light pollution. You can fit them without connecting the backlight on the X's, but can purchase the twin siren non-X ones for similar price. Covering a new box with what I guess is some old C-Type cover would remove the deterrent of a shiny new box and reduce sound output. If you are thinking of not buying a lid for this sounder it just will not work, they need a compatible lid.

Yeah sorry about that it's been on/off so many times

I wouldn't be messing about arguing with a customer and looking at a website at the side of the motorway. If already paid I'm doing it or not and then GTFOASAP. Agreed, complete idiot of a customer and the terms seem fine considering your paying for the convenience of call out with equipment and danger of working in live traffic. Altho TBF tyre is cheap Chinese thing replacing a Bridgestone, but he's right they are a stupid size and like a rubber band so probably an arse to fit. Does it matter to get you home and off the motorway... the longer your on the shoulder more chance a HGV wipes you out...

Get deed pole change name to James wilsingh then sorted

Cut and past the same stuff twice. Infra red is the detection method not what the detector is looking for, infra red detector detects heat or infra red radiation. Its unlikely that anyone can cover themselves up enough not to give off any heat at all . The ambient temp of the room versus the temp of the person. Even if the person was wearing a foil suit and giving off no heat (unlikely) he would be interrupting heat sources in the room. I would be looking a bit closer, what happens when you set the alarm and then walk in front of detectors? Nothing of what you have said makes any sense its almost as if your making excuses for the poor performance of your design

Smoke alarm

Maybe consider the spec, I know it seems easy to throw stuff where it is now. As much as you may wish to DIY, correct placement and design could see significant savings with better and more usable footage.

Waste of time , seriously, those recorders you can't even give away now, even swann has overtaken it So you will be like trying to fit ip 720p or something like that

the internet says its does upto D1 / 960H ?

It will only record in analogue resolutions even if converted, not recommended. Some machines are "hybrid" so you map IP's to the channels, this usually requires PoE elsewhere and detecting cams from the WAN. Just replace the lot with new Samsung. Seems a shame to get rid of a decent DVR but if 960H isn't good enough now (new cams?), you need to start again.

I have fitted a few systems with HA integration of varying degrees. Most of the time if they had no HA the alarm could to what they wanted anyway.

Isn't there some rule about swearing at people on this forum?

The comment regarding Grade 4 shows complete misunderstanding... Curtain PIR, Beams, Foil, all probably much better options. Make sure your glassbreak supports bulletproof/laminated glass consider how the shutter will affect detection, if you ignore us. Chubb may want to rip half of it out if it's not to spec anyway.

There are planning permission issues for installers fitting illuminated boxes on most sites anyway. I wouldn't ever fit them, in fact I have removed a good few of the LED strips from these Ody X's over the years. Given some more time now from the OP I'd say 25% that I removed have eventually become flaky or failed. Pretty simple to remove, it's a clever design having it modular like that; although I suspect they may have been running a bit hot. Have seen two different LED types one better than the other. The modules that do continue to work, nicely modify into decent camping lights...

Eol resistors are for End Of Line use they shouldn't be in the panel expander etc. If the flex supports seol then you would out this at the end. I haven't looked in detail at the existing wiring

You can also use an RS232 lead connected to the panel. From your other thread, it sounds like you already have the RS232 connection sorted out, so the cheapest option would be to use that. Note that the upgrade wipes the settings, so be sure to perform a complete site backup before the flash upgrade.

what could go Wong ?

probably not, plus id check with your insurer to see if your covered to install chinise made bombs in customers sites that dont have any uk based safty certs!!

The only solid state smoke ive come across is when you accidently put the wrong voltage in something. This generally lets the smoke out of it. Ive found that its the smoke that makes electronic stuff work, because once you have let all the smoke out of a component it never works again.

Normally your final exit doors would be 'final' you entry route zones would be exit. The use intruder for the rest not on the entry /exit route

DEOL (Double End of Line), will never work correctly without the shunt resistor across the zone in the device. You will also not find a panel that supports much more than 3 devices via DEOL. Your current system is SEOL which you could get away with that.

You will need 2 resistors if this is a galaxy on deol

Hackers would probably target people with £ rather tan gash cctv ?

Yes a daisy chain the resistors at each end. However if the runs are short they won't be needed

White light filters minimise the risk of a FA, sometimes installations don't lend themselves to installing the best way. Especially in retro situations. Often for example on a landing the best corner is over the stairs. I wouldn't install there due to future access issues so then your usually left with facing a window. They have some tolerance but you minimise the risks just like anything else. I'm not saying a good quality quad couldn't be fine. When you have the option available you install them in the best possible corners. Which the simple version is always pointing away from sources of light and heat (the sun) and perpendicular to the movement of any possible intruder. All manufacturers instructions say this and if you ignore it and have a false alarm it's your own fault. Had a job Tuesday were some tool had pointed a Honeywell PIR at a patio door in an open plan extension, it had false alarmed every day all the week prior. The system is 5 months old fitted by some clueless spark (scribbled colours/terminals on manuals...), seems to be a mess. It's only just started these FA's but you can see from the time in the log it's happening during the day when it's competing with the sun on the back patio. Re-siting has solved it, maybe a quad could but I don't see that as the correct solution... it's just a workaround, the bad positioning was the issue and would still be there IMO. Anyway, tis true G3 is pointless at a DIY level, it's much greater chance of headaches than ever genuinely detecting what it's there for. It could also affect everything I am saying about positioning. For example, they are designed for open commercial spaces if your fitting in corners with possibly of curtains or tall furniture you may have to consider a less ideal corner. Master bed you have cupboard doors opening onto the ideal corners, this will likely cause a mask. Or if not and maybe you left the doors open you have no detection. There is more to design than the ideal manufacturers instructions or looking at top view building plans and more unnecessary issues to jungle throwing G3 components in the mix.

48 would be more than enough, it's will never be a G3 system but you seem to be aspiring to that spec. Have you considered standby time, I prefer more PSU's i.e. PSU200XP and 7Ah batteries over 17Ah. In fairness some of this is completely pointless overkill (we have to assume the risk based on DIY), your bound to have unnecessary headaches with G3 kit which is some of PJ's point. I still can't agree pointing any movement sensors towards windows/openings is in anyway correct or has faster detection, you'll also never find a manufacturers instructions to concur with this. You can get crosstalk with MW, I only fit Optex ones with anti-crosstalk but none of your sensors are close enough. I'd say it's only the "pointless" hall one with any chance of MW leakage outside the protected area, I'd also assume K band MW which has less wall penetration.

It's not like software isn't achievable, perhaps these manufacturers are tied up with other parent company products so avoid certain things Or just don't want to move forward due to cost of development Bit like rcbos taking years to becoming a standard but it is coming eventually, sorry I know it's a bit different but some things don't make sense

Hi and welcome I work four days a week including Wednesdays but we dont fit Pyronix or Hik if we can help it

Zamunda ?

Agreed bet it's a horrible sound bomb type thing connected to an output programmed as open closed rather than bell

Hi All Thank you for your help so far. In the end the engineer configured the Ethernet board on our home LAN and I could connect it when I was connected to my home network. However it wasn't accessible via the cloud option. As it's a Lantronix smart XPort module, I could telnet onto it and ping the Orisec DDNS server, with no issues, so it had internet access. I then checked with Orisec support directly and they advised that this board doesn't support the cloud option at all. So all in all a good experience of understanding the configuration and setup but we happen to have a panel with the wrong capabilities. For now, I have reverted back to wifi as I can live with that for the time being. @Hillbilly The CP-20 panel swap may be the only option. Thank you all again for your help with this.

Hi Brian Welcome, any branded sounder will be suitable replacements, but the terminology used between brands is normally different. The paragon is an old panel and was made before Pyronix bought out Castle and so its likely the older panels will have different terminology then later products

This is an old AFA setup; possibly pre AFA Minerva days. AFA & Minerva merged together in 1969; but equipment remained to be installed with "AFA Burglar Alarm" and "AFA Security Systems" for quite a while after. With the involvement of EMI - the company name was officially changed during early 1973 to "AFA-Minerva - EMI". The installation pictured is a single circuit "G Type", the small box beloew the relay box has a red lamp on the top, beneath that a black knob (Circuit switch) and beneath that a barrel keyswitch. The red lamp warns you that a circuit is open, so don't turn the key! If the lamp was out when setting, it was safe to turn the keyswitch, setting the latch and bell circuit. Behind the panel, when the key was turned to "Arm", a metal bar rotated to wedge the above circuit switch - to prevent it from being switched off. The relay box above are the control relays - in most normal installations; this box was an AFA drum bell box (usually Black, or Blue). Relay on the LH side (above) is the Bells and Outputs relay, Centre Relay is the latch relay (in other versions of this box, this is a sealed Dublo relay) and far RH side relay is a low current relay - the circuit relay, energised by the end of circuit batteries. (3 flag cells). AFA did a multicircuit version of this - also available in Blue or Black; which could handle up to 10 circuits, and included a circuit test and panel meter. These boxes were often modifications to existing systems; where the drum would be removed; this box fitted and luxuries such as 24 hour Tamper and Panic circuits would be added, as well as a Lead Acid Battery and charger. There were still many of these installs in operation when I was at Thorn. We had loads on our books - and if looked after, were quite reliable. I removed one of the last ones in the midlands that was linked directly to a local police station. Not that it's any use to anyone, terminations - the first 12 are a drop down to the panel - wired in 12core. AFA-Minerva continued to make a Single G-Type and a Multi Circuit G-type (this could handle around 15 circuits and was the size of a large suitcase) until around 1976/77 - though still used Flag Cells - they also included electronics here and there as relay drivers in a bid to keep current consumption down.

It's been said before but your going have much less hassle installing a full system with kit all matched together. Some decent IP turrets will send and receive audio and alarms from the camera itself using TCP/IP. No messing about trying to make different manufacturers compatible with each other. Single wire to each location with options of better image quality over 4-format turrets. Unlikely to get more than 10-15m out of USB peripherals without some conversion. Have used HDMI/USB combiners myself to solve similar.

Engineer would be liable for any fault leading to injury or death just like with fire, so I would refuse to do any of it without correct training. Plenty of jail sentences and fines in the news... Also insurance for the company is higher if you add gates to your services, either specialise and train correctly for it or sub IMO. Gate-safe is one path of training, which is a ECS discipline. https://www.hse.gov.uk/work-equipment-machinery/powered-gates/safety.htm https://www.hse.gov.uk/safetybulletins/poweredgates.htm https://gate-safe.org/ As above suppliers will have their own scheme but it's going to be based on their supplied kit.

keyswtich added by installer

I've no issue with students paying back for their uni education, a fair way imo rather than everyone else paying for it. As you say it's only paid back at a percentage over a certain amount of earnings (9% of outstanding debt when you hit 28k or thereabouts) I could count on one hand the people from my school who went onto uni but nowadays it's the norm so dilutes the talent pool imo. There's also the cost of accommodation and living if they don't qualify for a grant and for a couple of years we were paying over £1.2k pcm just for accommodation. As I say, I have no issues with those who benefit paying back providing those who can't afford it are subsidised to go in the first place. *eta, not talent pool, more the prestige of going.

As many of you will know im extending my own Home assistant system. I have noticed some support for what i would call 'proper' control equipment rather than the toy town stuff more traditionally supported. I see texecom have a mqtt Texecom2mqtt: Texecom alarm panel and MQTT integration with HA support - Third party integrations - Home Assistant Community (home-assistant.io) Vanderbilt have Vanderbilt SPC - Home Assistant (home-assistant.io) Galaxy Guy has one for Honeywell Galaxy (im sure he will post more info) Hikvision GitHub - zoilomora/hikvision-to-mqtt: Sends alarm events from Hikvision DVR to MQTT