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  1. get your property to finished surfaces - oh, I think I have a burglar alarm....
    2 points
  2. If you do get a supply of them... unlikely to get a large quantity from a wholesaler if they even have them listed; I would suggest to replace as part of any maintenance. The transparent wiring cover will easily flick out at the hinge with correct application of a flat screwdriver, so you could have covers ready to go with spare wiring covers (buy a few dummies). I know it's not the point but you could consider getting some adhesive 12v LED tape instead, most thinner stuff can be cut at 8-10cm sections make them up ready to go. It's less hassle to go forward using the same box if you want, but not offering or connecting the illumination. As I say I don't offer illuminated sounders every now and then a new customer enquires about them, I ask if they have or have applied for planning permission to have one and then explain the details of this. If the customer even wanted to put the effort in to apply, your unlikely to get it granted in a domestic situation. No neighbour wants to look at your light up advert looking across the road in the evening... more importantly, I don't feel they should have to either.
    2 points
  3. Isn't the iwise bus a bus detector that will only work on a risco panel? You have also probably blown the fuse or panel. Wires shouldn't 'touch'
    2 points
  4. Tat alarms & naff doorbells is what the public want...
    2 points
  5. 2 points
  6. Just consider permanently illuminated external sounders require planning permission, if the decal space is used. I would disable anyway. Make sure the controls are in full working order, charging rates, voltages etc; before only replacing the siren.
    2 points
  7. Sounds like someone else over specced and it ended up in your van...
    2 points
  8. AIUI in that situation it's still all the same rules and repayments but HMRC no longer have access to your tax code or income, so you have to provide evidence. If you disappear your rate is charged the maximum monthly amount and you are charged interest on late payments.
    2 points
  9. My email is a gmail not a business one, I set it up when I bought my cameras from them so I don't get marketing emails. If the splitters are tat I won't use them
    1 point
  10. Mice fart louder than most current external sounders Sticking lots of stuff on the alarm means lost of current drawn in alarm all my P24 need 9Ah batterys
    1 point
  11. There can be unforeseen planning permission issues and they are unnecessary light pollution. You can fit them without connecting the backlight on the X's, but can purchase the twin siren non-X ones for similar price. Covering a new box with what I guess is some old C-Type cover would remove the deterrent of a shiny new box and reduce sound output. If you are thinking of not buying a lid for this sounder it just will not work, they need a compatible lid.
    1 point
  12. that is assuming all sites have a common engineer code.
    1 point
  13. The corcern is the installer is liable if your system fails to perform. I understand their position and they are correct. Don't know orisec and not sure it can be locked. I would. However if your out of support with your maintainer they should default the panel (at a cost if visit required). No your not locked into them assuming you own the hardware. But the programming may be theirs. A default protects everyone so that's the way to go
    1 point
  14. this is the windows one which is part of the full tablet app that runs the engineers fault finding tracking etc
    1 point
  15. Not in the panel programming. You would need to add a pulse relay or use a sounder with 2 different inputs
    1 point
  16. Not totally, remember the insurance companies lost a lot of money through covid and with weather events too.
    1 point
  17. Get deed pole change name to James wilsingh then sorted
    1 point
  18. Going back to the original point if it hkc signalling and as you claim hkc servers were down the panel would of retried. I've tested loss of comms etc and it does go through on WiFi reconnection. If your talking about detector sensitivity you now think it's a detector issue. I personally use hkc at home as well as work etc I've never had a failure to detect, failure to alarm or failure to report. Probably need to add a lot more info else it looks like your blaming kit with no evidence of it being at fault. Arc logs would be a good start then panel logs. Nothing identifiable. Comms type etc etc. As it is i can only summise that detector areas were not used. For all detectors to not detect then it wasn't armed
    1 point
  19. Never heard of brooks before internet, thorn was finishing off as I was getting going... IIRC
    1 point
  20. From the album: OLD alarm Equipment details

    I knew this great starter panel as a 41A control used / installed in the 1970s, Smart metal box, with hinged lid to conceal unit, 12v external power supply, one cct, plus shunt cct. Indicators, Green Clear, Red Fault (key locked by a solenoid) Yellow Call engineer to reset if auto Dialer fitted. Bell test removed power from SAB to sound external bell. Yale key switch.

    © Ultrasonic

    1 point
  21. I also read on ha forums and see in YouTube things like the best camera review. They rarely are
    1 point
  22. Looks like the chequebook lads thanks for all your replies.
    1 point
  23. Waste of time , seriously, those recorders you can't even give away now, even swann has overtaken it So you will be like trying to fit ip 720p or something like that
    1 point
  24. the internet says its does upto D1 / 960H ?
    1 point
  25. I have fitted a few systems with HA integration of varying degrees. Most of the time if they had no HA the alarm could to what they wanted anyway.
    1 point
  26. The comment regarding Grade 4 shows complete misunderstanding... Curtain PIR, Beams, Foil, all probably much better options. Make sure your glassbreak supports bulletproof/laminated glass consider how the shutter will affect detection, if you ignore us. Chubb may want to rip half of it out if it's not to spec anyway.
    1 point
  27. Eol resistors are for End Of Line use they shouldn't be in the panel expander etc. If the flex supports seol then you would out this at the end. I haven't looked in detail at the existing wiring
    1 point
  28. I appreciate the professional installers on this forum, and I understand that my situation may seem less than ideal. I want to assure you that I am doing everything I can to improve the current circumstances. This situation is not intentional, and if there were a straightforward solution, I would have implemented it already. However, there are some challenges that will require time and effort to address. Your advice and guidance are valuable to me, and I truly appreciate your support. Thanks, Mark
    1 point
  29. dunno, TBH I couldn't give a Castlemaine 4x
    1 point
  30. probably not, plus id check with your insurer to see if your covered to install chinise made bombs in customers sites that dont have any uk based safty certs!!
    1 point
  31. DEOL (Double End of Line), will never work correctly without the shunt resistor across the zone in the device. You will also not find a panel that supports much more than 3 devices via DEOL. Your current system is SEOL which you could get away with that.
    1 point
  32. I have seen many diffrent installation styles over the years, Clips vs staples, surface run vs hidden, taught vs slack. Personaly I take pride in my 1st fix and cabling and do it properly but that does slow you down. The work I observed with a contractor on a new build housing estate was so slopppy that I pulled him up on it, his justification was that he had targets to hit and they dont pay him enough to give a **** And there seems to be the problem paying **** money to general contractors under pressure to get the job done as quickly as possible. If I had paid good money for a new house I would expect the cable for the window sensor to be run through the upvc window frame and under the window sill not surface run and poorly clipped As mentioned BS7671 is a good place to start for general regs
    1 point
  33. We have had a rather large upgrade, some new features but mainly security. Let me know if you have any issues. James
    1 point
  34. Hackers would probably target people with £ rather tan gash cctv ?
    1 point
  35. Yes a daisy chain the resistors at each end. However if the runs are short they won't be needed
    1 point
  36. Transistorised. Handy Little Relay, Bentley or Interface Solutions are some brands we get here. Not sure were you would shoehorn these in mind you, as for our standards it should be within the tampered enclosure. I'd just take wire from straight from the controls for this reason.
    1 point
  37. Hi and welcome I work four days a week including Wednesdays but we dont fit Pyronix or Hik if we can help it
    1 point
  38. Agreed bet it's a horrible sound bomb type thing connected to an output programmed as open closed rather than bell
    1 point
  39. Your engineer code is different from what your trying
    1 point
  40. Hi Brian Welcome, any branded sounder will be suitable replacements, but the terminology used between brands is normally different. The paragon is an old panel and was made before Pyronix bought out Castle and so its likely the older panels will have different terminology then later products
    1 point
  41. OP, Yours is 6 wire sensor with no tamper circuit The real Comet- In some of the Alibaba pics the "clone" has "Rokonet" moulded onto the cae
    1 point
  42. There are people out there that swear by Risco, but I cant help feeling thats because its cheap, and many installers wont touch it. Its not the easiest to work on and its not got the best reliability reputation. We would not take one over either, but there are people that will just make sure that they install them rather than just want to take it over for the sake of it.
    1 point
  43. This is an old AFA setup; possibly pre AFA Minerva days. AFA & Minerva merged together in 1969; but equipment remained to be installed with "AFA Burglar Alarm" and "AFA Security Systems" for quite a while after. With the involvement of EMI - the company name was officially changed during early 1973 to "AFA-Minerva - EMI". The installation pictured is a single circuit "G Type", the small box beloew the relay box has a red lamp on the top, beneath that a black knob (Circuit switch) and beneath that a barrel keyswitch. The red lamp warns you that a circuit is open, so don't turn the key! If the lamp was out when setting, it was safe to turn the keyswitch, setting the latch and bell circuit. Behind the panel, when the key was turned to "Arm", a metal bar rotated to wedge the above circuit switch - to prevent it from being switched off. The relay box above are the control relays - in most normal installations; this box was an AFA drum bell box (usually Black, or Blue). Relay on the LH side (above) is the Bells and Outputs relay, Centre Relay is the latch relay (in other versions of this box, this is a sealed Dublo relay) and far RH side relay is a low current relay - the circuit relay, energised by the end of circuit batteries. (3 flag cells). AFA did a multicircuit version of this - also available in Blue or Black; which could handle up to 10 circuits, and included a circuit test and panel meter. These boxes were often modifications to existing systems; where the drum would be removed; this box fitted and luxuries such as 24 hour Tamper and Panic circuits would be added, as well as a Lead Acid Battery and charger. There were still many of these installs in operation when I was at Thorn. We had loads on our books - and if looked after, were quite reliable. I removed one of the last ones in the midlands that was linked directly to a local police station. Not that it's any use to anyone, terminations - the first 12 are a drop down to the panel - wired in 12core. AFA-Minerva continued to make a Single G-Type and a Multi Circuit G-type (this could handle around 15 circuits and was the size of a large suitcase) until around 1976/77 - though still used Flag Cells - they also included electronics here and there as relay drivers in a bid to keep current consumption down.
    1 point
  44. ? 4603 would be early 90's radio tat ??
    1 point
  45. I do my dept head's house alarm (can't remember him) I used to do my primary school teachers house alarm, IIRC in the class was 6 lads sat in the table in the middle 5 of 'em called Dave
    1 point
  46. Hi, I'm an Alarm Engineer of 7 years, I install and commission Intruder, CCTV, Door Access and Fire Alarms, I joined to ask a question on a Honeywell galaxy panel I was working on but figured it out shortly after, but I've seen quite a few informative things on here so I'm glad I joined, hopefully learn a few things on here too, there's always something new to learn so looking forward to that, I hope to answer other people questions as best I can as well.
    1 point
  47. Hello and welcome, apply for trade membership.
    1 point
  48. I haven't seen anything like this for a long time, vaguely remember something about these being ultrsonics?
    1 point
  49. I haven’t fitted any X3s yet. Thinking about possibly starting to install some on new installs but wanted to clarify if the backlight issue had been fixed or not.
    1 point
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