Texecom Premier Elite 24 Panel Lid Tamper

[TomG]

I have installed a Premier Elite 24 system and have programmed the zones as required, however I cannot get rid of the warning 'Panel Lid Tamper' on the system. The microswitch inside the control panel is closed (cover bolt is in place). If I remove the cover bolt I get 'Box Lid Tamper' in addition to the 'Panel Lid Tamper' which seems to be distinct. I can't find any reference to 'Panel Lid Tamper' in the PE Manual, although 'Box Lid Tamper' is referenced in the list of possible log events. I feel like I must be missing something here... if anyone can offer any advice I would be grateful. Thanks!

[sixwheeledbeast]

Lead from the switch not connected to the panel?

Keyhole plastic over tightened breaking the back tamper?

Firmware version?

[TomG]

5 minutes ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

Lead from the switch not connected to the panel?

Keyhole plastic over tightened breaking the back tamper?

Firmware version?

The white lead is connected to the leftmost pair of pins on the 3pin header (item 20 in the manual). I don't think there's a back tamper fitted, just the switch for the front cover bolt. I've included a picture of this. I assume the firmware is printed on the sticker on the main board - this reads LS1 V4.01.03.

[al-yeti]

45 minutes ago, TomG said:

The white lead is connected to the leftmost pair of pins on the 3pin header (item 20 in the manual). I don't think there's a back tamper fitted, just the switch for the front cover bolt. I've included a picture of this. I assume the firmware is printed on the sticker on the main board - this reads LS1 V4.01.03.

What you mean "don't think"? You looked?

 

 

[sixwheeledbeast]

7 hours ago, TomG said:

 I don't think there's a back tamper fitted, just the switch for the front cover bolt.

The back tamper is part of the keyhole plastic as I said. You could rule out the cab tampers by using a jumper on the header, then try resetting the controls.

 

7 hours ago, TomG said:

I assume the firmware is printed on the sticker on the main board - this reads LS1 V4.01.03.

This is the firmware from stock so will be correct unless flashed. Can't really see much of what I am talking about from the picture, I understand you are trying to show the lid screw.

[TomG]

8 hours ago, al-yeti said:

What you mean "don't think"? You looked?

 

 

The only tamper switch I can see is the front cover tamper, so unless I'm missing something there's no back tamper - I can see no evidence of a tamper switch between the unit and the wall and there is no wiring for one.

[TomG]

1 hour ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

The back tamper is part of the keyhole plastic as I said. You could rule out the cab tampers by using a jumper on the header, then try resetting the controls.

 

This is the firmware from stock so will be correct unless flashed. Can't really see much of what I am talking about from the picture, I understand you are trying to show the lid screw.

 

Apologies I must be misunderstanding - which part is the keyhole plastic? Do you mean the empty keyhole-shaped cutout on the rear roughly in the area of the front cover tamper? Nothing is fitted to this I assume it is where a rear tamper would be if there was one. As I've fitted to the wall I would have to remove the unit to investigate this further.

 

I will use a jumper to short the header - I assume this should be the left and centre pin as this is where the tamper switch is connected? I have been 'resetting' by logging in with the engineer code and logging out again on the RKP (this was succesful in clearing the 'box lid tamper' I saw previously, as well as various other tamper alerts that occurred when I first powered on the system) is there any other procedure I should follow instead?

 

Thanks for your help!

[sixwheeledbeast]

Yes, keyhole fixing hole adjacent the mains and tamper switch.

If you have not used the keyhole as a fixing you have not fitted the rear tamper. The keyhole fixing if used and overtightened (or ripped off the wall in a burglary) will break the plastic plate and move the switch away from the lid screw by design.

The 3 pin header should be marked with a white line, not got a PE24 to hand to say left, middle or right. If in doubt try both positions.

Panel is best to be factory defaulted on first power up. You would normally get tampers and internal alarm on first power up.

[TomG]

52 minutes ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

Yes, keyhole fixing hole adjacent the mains and tamper switch.

If you have not used the keyhole as a fixing you have not fitted the rear tamper. The keyhole fixing if used and overtightened (or ripped off the wall in a burglary) will break the plastic plate and move the switch away from the lid screw by design.

The 3 pin header should be marked with a white line, not got a PE24 to hand to say left, middle or right. If in doubt try both positions.

Panel is best to be factory defaulted on first power up. You would normally get tampers and internal alarm on first power up.

Thanks, I now understand - I must have missed that part of the installation manual. It shouldn't be too hard for me to re-mount it with the rear tamper also secured.

 

I also tried the other position on the 3-pin header as you suggest and this appears to resolve the problem - first I successfully used a jumper and then the actual switch. No more 'panel-lid tamper' or 'box-lid tamper' so thanks! I'm not sure what the purpose of the left-most pin is on the header in that case as it seems not to require connecting to anything, I must have simply plugged the header onto the wrong pair of pins at some point. When I initially powered up I did hold down the factory default button which as you describe did result in a number of tampers - good to know that's normal.

 

One last question - when removing the cover the tamper goes off and the buzzer on the RKP sounds, however my siren does not. Is this the default behaviour for tampers and can it be configured for the siren to activate as well? The siren works fine when using the 'test siren' feature or if I arm the system then deliberately trip one of the PIRs so it seems to be wired in OK, I haven't tested what happens if I activate the tamper on a PIR or the RKP.

 

Thanks very much for your help!

[sixwheeledbeast]

Tampers are a 24hr type alarm. This means internals if unset, full alarm if armed.

[al-yeti]

5 hours ago, TomG said:

Thanks, I now understand - I must have missed that part of the installation manual. It shouldn't be too hard for me to re-mount it with the rear tamper also secured.

 

I also tried the other position on the 3-pin header as you suggest and this appears to resolve the problem - first I successfully used a jumper and then the actual switch. No more 'panel-lid tamper' or 'box-lid tamper' so thanks! I'm not sure what the purpose of the left-most pin is on the header in that case as it seems not to require connecting to anything, I must have simply plugged the header onto the wrong pair of pins at some point. When I initially powered up I did hold down the factory default button which as you describe did result in a number of tampers - good to know that's normal.

 

One last question - when removing the cover the tamper goes off and the buzzer on the RKP sounds, however my siren does not. Is this the default behaviour for tampers and can it be configured for the siren to activate as well? The siren works fine when using the 'test siren' feature or if I arm the system then deliberately trip one of the PIRs so it seems to be wired in OK, I haven't tested what happens if I activate the tamper on a PIR or the RKP.

 

Thanks very much for your help!

It would be a pain having bells go off everytime a tamper goes 

 

You could if you really want to add aaster blaster in the house haha select an output linked to the tamper , have an output that disables it when in engineer mode 

 

But you might get headache 

[TomG]

That's great, thanks for clarifying how the tamper works!