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Klaxon Master Blaster


Oli_me

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Hi, I know it's a long shot and a bit vague, but does anyone know how to wire in a klaxon master blaster to a texecom premier elite 12/24? the main part that i'm struggling with is which terminals to connect the wires to the panel, and how to program it to work. Someone said that I need to wire the positive into one of the digi outs!?

 

 

Thank you in advance for your help :)

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19 minutes ago, PeterJames said:

Why would you think its a long shot? I suspect that most on here would know how to do it

Long shot because I was let down by the person who installed the alarm, and guess I don't feel lucky that I'll get it sorted online :( fingers crossed though

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10 minutes ago, datadiffusion said:

Been done before, though tricky. Below is a simplified version of the more popular interface sold by Bentley, suitable for home production;

 

tuberadio.jpg

Thank you for your reply. I don't follow the attached pic, not sure we're on about the same thing!? 

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3 minutes ago, james.wilson said:

Give it 240 and wire the relay to the bell output. Or Give Texecom a call

Both products are under Texecom now

I've got it connected to the 240, and on the master blaster side black to negative and red to positive. there is a wire already connected to the "bell" terminal and didn't was to over load it. plus why would someone say it needs to be connected to the digi outputs?

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32 minutes ago, datadiffusion said:

Been done before, though tricky. Below is a simplified version of the more popular interface sold by Bentley, suitable for home production;

 

Ah, you can't beat one of those good old fashioned tube valve interfaces...

 

25 minutes ago, Oli_me said:

Long shot because I was let down by the person who installed the alarm, and guess I don't feel lucky that I'll get it sorted online :( fingers crossed though

 

That's unfortunate, have you tried to contact another engineer?

It's not quite as simple as sticking wires in terminals...

 

Lets start with the fact a PE12 and PE24 are two different panels so wire program differently, also we don't know what model Klaxon you have there are different types.

Then even with the correct kit you will need to go into the engineers menu which any reputable installer will have his own code so you wouldn't be able to access.

Follow this with locating an output that can handle the current from the blaster, would have to check spec sheets for panel and blaster.

When in engineering menu you would need to set an output (all should sink negative on the small Texe panels) to follow the bell with a reduced trigger time so not annoy the neighbours or burn the blaster out.

 

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12 hours ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

 

Ah, you can't beat one of those good old fashioned tube valve interfaces...

 

 

That's unfortunate, have you tried to contact another engineer?

It's not quite as simple as sticking wires in terminals...

 

Lets start with the fact a PE12 and PE24 are two different panels so wire program differently, also we don't know what model Klaxon you have there are different types.

Then even with the correct kit you will need to go into the engineers menu which any reputable installer will have his own code so you wouldn't be able to access.

Follow this with locating an output that can handle the current from the blaster, would have to check spec sheets for panel and blaster.

When in engineering menu you would need to set an output (all should sink negative on the small Texe panels) to follow the bell with a reduced trigger time so not annoy the neighbours or burn the blaster out.

 

What you mean handle current ? On the texes don't they have something that can switch a relay as standard ? 

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12 minutes ago, Oli_me said:

Surely there is a relay in the master blaster, well when toy power it with 12v you can hear the relay click. So surely all I need is a connection on the panel that supplies 12v under alarm conditions?

Any programmable output it would seem that switches from positive to negative , and other leg of relay to positive 

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28 minutes ago, Oli_me said:

Surely there is a relay in the master blaster, well when toy power it with 12v you can hear the relay click. So surely all I need is a connection on the panel that supplies 12v under alarm conditions?

 

As I say in my post in depends which model blaster you have.

Also relays do take a current and you have to consider if protected for back EMF.

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Hi all, I spoke to Texecom support earlier today, they were really helpful :) told me to wire the negative into the Bell terminal, and the positive into 12V + 

they said the relay in the master blaster doesn't draw much and will be fine. Happy days :) and yup tested it...... ouch it's loud 

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7 hours ago, Oli_me said:

Hi all, I spoke to Texecom support earlier today, they were really helpful :) told me to wire the negative into the Bell terminal, and the positive into 12V + 

they said the relay in the master blaster doesn't draw much and will be fine. Happy days :) and yup tested it...... ouch it's loud 

I would fit back emf protection by way of a varistor or diode at the MB terminals if it were me, if not then there’s a strong chance of blowing your panel aux supply.

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9 hours ago, Oli_me said:

Hi all, I spoke to Texecom support earlier today, they were really helpful :) told me to wire the negative into the Bell terminal, and the positive into 12V + 

they said the relay in the master blaster doesn't draw much and will be fine. Happy days :) and yup tested it...... ouch it's loud 

 

Did they cover all the things I mentioned in my post? I said initially its not as simple as sticking wires in terminals.

 

Does the Blaster have Back EMF protection? Possible but if you don't check you could blow the panel or output.

I wouldn't use a bell terminal for this unless there was no other option due to my points above, however:-

Did they ask what was in the bell terminals already and calculate the current? Again could blow the panel or bell trig if not checked.

Did you adjust the bell time so not to burn the master out? Blasters have a duty cycle and will burn out if overrun.

Was it explained about noise pollution regulations and if the sound is deemed excessive the LA can force entry to the property to kill it?

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7 minutes ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

 

Did they cover all the things I mentioned in my post? I said initially its not as simple as sticking wires in terminals.

 

Does the Blaster have Back EMF protection? Possible but if you don't check you could blow the panel or output.

I wouldn't use a bell terminal for this unless there was no other option due to my points above, however:-

Did they ask what was in the bell terminals already and calculate the current? Again could blow the panel or bell trig if not checked.

Did you adjust the bell time so not to burn the master out? Blasters have a duty cycle and will burn out if overrun.

Was it explained about noise pollution regulations and if the sound is deemed excessive the LA can force entry to the property to kill it?

QFA

you're right on every point, bit slack if techs answer is banging on bell trig, with no mention of other issues.

the number of blown contacts/outputs I’ve come across in the past have been feeding mag/strike locks to a simple handy relay in a panel.

 

 

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1 hour ago, sjsturner said:

 bit slack if techs answer is banging on bell trig, with no mention of other issues.

 

I see it from both ways.

Would you prefer Texecom to be on the phone to DIYers explaining how to do this properly, while your engineers or yourself are on a job, on hold for hours?

The technical guys have come to the conclusion it's a DIYer and banging it on the bell trig is the simple way to "get it working" with no programming. Therefore clearing the lines for more technical questions, a priority at the moment.

If it works for a while without failing then job done, difference is we are mostly professionals giving advise here using our experience, you cant teach how to do our job on a forum.

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Thank you for your reply’s, he didn’t appear to be just fobbing me off, he did ask me what else was on the Bell, and seemed to be referring to some technical data and said it will be fine as the master blaster relay doesn’t draw much current 1.0A I think. I did say shouldn’t it be in a different port, and he said I’m over complicating it. He asked me to check on the panels menu and confirmed it’s a premier elite 24. No he didn’t mention the noise and the time it could be going off for, although I’m pretty sure the bell is set for 20mins, but where I am I don’t think noise is going to be an issue, and if it is and someone is breaking in then I’d be glad for anyone to turn up and see what’s going on!! 

 

If somone could guide me through how to wire it into a different trigger port like one of the digi’s And how to program it then I’d be more than keen and happy to change it as I’m not an expert and you guys know your stuff 

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4 minutes ago, Oli_me said:

Thank you for your reply’s, he didn’t appear to be just fobbing me off, he did ask me what else was on the Bell, and seemed to be referring to some technical data and said it will be fine as the master blaster relay doesn’t draw much current 1.0A I think. I did say shouldn’t it be in a different port, and he said I’m over complicating it. He asked me to check on the panels menu and confirmed it’s a premier elite 24. No he didn’t mention the noise and the time it could be going off for, although I’m pretty sure the bell is set for 20mins, but where I am I don’t think noise is going to be an issue, and if it is and someone is breaking in then I’d be glad for anyone to turn up and see what’s going on!! 

 

If somone could guide me through how to wire it into a different trigger port like one of the digi’s And how to program it then I’d be more than keen and happy to change it as I’m not an expert and you guys know your stuff 

Sorry forgot to add the model is klaxon SLM-0001

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56 minutes ago, Oli_me said:

said it will be fine as the master blaster relay doesn’t draw much current 1.0A I think.

Bell output is rated at 500mA, Digi outputs 100mA.

 

1 hour ago, Oli_me said:

 No he didn’t mention the noise and the time it could be going off for, although I’m pretty sure the bell is set for 20mins, but where I am I don’t think noise is going to be an issue, and if it is and someone is breaking in then I’d be glad for anyone to turn up and see what’s going on!!

20mins is over the maximum run time for a motor style high output siren.

You wouldn't be happy turning up to your house after the locks have been changed, alarm disabled and a note to contact your nearest council office for entry, plus the bill to pay all the services that turned up to stop it.

More likely to happen in urban areas but possible anywhere.

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