james.wilson Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 Your mixing inputs and outputs up. you cant use any if the 000x outputs for anything but comms equipment Quote securitywarehouse Security Supplies from Security Warehouse Trade Members please contact us for your TSI vetted trade discount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vini Posted June 1, 2013 Author Share Posted June 1, 2013 Your mixing inputs and outputs up. you cant use any if the 000x outputs for anything but comms equipment  Ok; sorry folks!  - Do I need to be in the panel/move any wiring? - 1001 thru 1004 seem to be pretty much essential...? Would changing these have a detrimental affect on the operation?  I just need to nail this and im set... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oxo Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 Yes  Neg to shock into output as 08 (Option 53, then 08).  1004 is RIO 0 Input 4 = 1004 The zone wiring does not change the power wiring does.  RTFM as mentioned Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vini Posted June 1, 2013 Author Share Posted June 1, 2013 Yes  Neg to shock into output as 08 (Option 53, then 08).  1004 is RIO 0 Input 4 = 1004 The zone wiring does not change the power wiring does.  RTFM as mentioned  I am RTFM'ing, and pulling hair - appreciating all the help folks!  I understand now, that I need to reroute the Neg in the panel, for this zone, to an Output, which I then set to DetRst.  My last(?) question; where are the outputs!!  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oxo Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 Trig output  Only one you can use if you have a sab. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vini Posted June 2, 2013 Author Share Posted June 2, 2013 (edited) Trig output  Only one you can use if you have a sab.  Ok, so I've moved the Neg to Trig, and set Output from 1001 Set to 1001 0v DetRst... Logged out as Engineer...  Go to set it, and the Viper now warns it is 'open'... although it does set... Edited June 2, 2013 by Vini Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norman Posted June 2, 2013 Share Posted June 2, 2013 it will show open as it resets yes. Quote Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vini Posted July 25, 2017 Author Share Posted July 25, 2017 We've just had new Windows fitted, which resulted in this particular Viper GLX being disconnected... I've returned to found the Remote Keypad flashing with *******************'s across the screen, the keypad beeps on keypress, but does nothing else.  Power cycling the G2 results in the panel starting up with a long beep (until keypress) and the screen returning to flashing *******************'s...  Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james.wilson Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 the keypad isn't communicating with the panel Quote securitywarehouse Security Supplies from Security Warehouse Trade Members please contact us for your TSI vetted trade discount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vini Posted July 25, 2017 Author Share Posted July 25, 2017  45 minutes ago, james.wilson said: the keypad isn't communicating with the panel  Hi James, I appreciate this, but I don't understand why this would be. Given that the keypad has not been touched.  I appreciate that the peripherals are probably all linked in series...  My wiring: Pos/+/12v == White Neg/-/0v == Green Tamper == Blue Alarm == Red  I have no photo prior to the windows being changed, but this is how the sensor currently looks. The window fitter is adamant no wires have "come loose" and I have double checked that all the connections are tight. This is the only sensor that has been touched.    I am confused as to why the keypad is now not playing ball.  Does the keypad comm issue/*******'s prevent a full boot up also? I ask, as I have a network connection to the Panel, but this is no longer connecting.   Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixwheeledbeast Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 Damage to the wiring dragging the system voltage down? You'd have to start by taking the controls apart and doing some tests. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vini Posted July 25, 2017 Author Share Posted July 25, 2017 (edited) The Aux fuse had also blown I forgot to add... it was after replacing the fuse that the ***** started... Â Do resistors "blow" as such? Â Given that I cannot "control" the system via the RKP, can I remove the Shock sensor to see if that is the blame? Edited July 25, 2017 by Vini Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al-yeti Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 1 hour ago, Vini said: The Aux fuse had also blown I forgot to add... it was after replacing the fuse that the ***** started... Â Do resistors "blow" as such? Â Given that I cannot "control" the system via the RKP, can I remove the Shock sensor to see if that is the blame? What was fuse size you replaced it with Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Vincent Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 Yesterday, when this initially happened the RKP was "dead", which is what led me to check the fuses. I replaced the visibly blown Aux fuse with a 500mA. Doing this is what resulted in the RKP showing *************'s and flashing. Â Tonight, thinking the new fuse/one of the other fuses could be to blame, IÂ swapped them all out. Which resulted in the sounder going off, previously, replacing the fuses one by one was enough to stop the sounder, but not this time. So I've disconnected the battery, pulled all fuses and going to let it run its course... Grrr. Â The panel feed has a 3A fuse. F1, has a 1A (Battery) F2, has a 500mA (Aux) F3, has a 500mA (Bell) Â A few years ago I installed a C020, and I remembered that I had a flash cable and RSS software, so I fired that up. I was able to run an RRI, which suggested; Â Panel AUX Voltage is out of the range or have more than 5% difference to baseline. Â The audit logs show... Â Â Â Looking under Keypad/MAX in RSS reveals nothing on either 1/2/3. Â I'm beginning to think the fitters gone through a wire or something, and tinkering on the IT side of things (resetting it etc), isn't going to help. Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al-yeti Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 Take a cable from panel to keypad see if it works or small capitals let to panel and take keypad near panel lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Vincent Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 I've spat the dummy. I'm gonna call an engineer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GalaxyGuy Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 If exiting engineering mode isn't finding Keypad 0, then I agree with al. Put the keypad on a flying lead and hook in to the panel.  If you powered the keypad up after the panel, then the panel will not see the keypad. The keypad needs to be present when the panel scans the bus for devices at power on or engineer 'esc' sequence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Vincent Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 Just adding the full RRI, as I noticed it says "the following zones need to have their wiring checked", wondered if that gave any clues? Â The ONLY zone to be touched during the window replacement was 1004, I'm contemplating removing that from the panel. Â Â Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Vincent Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 (edited) Ok, had some food and gathered my toys. Â Removing 1004 results in a working Panel. Â My non-technical conclusion can only mean the wires have been damaged during the window replacement. I'll re-wire, re-install new resistors and double check. Failing that at least I know I can rip out the wiring and get back to a working state! Â If all else fails, I can replace the sensor with a wireless one. Edited July 25, 2017 by James Vincent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al-yeti Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 7 hours ago, Vini said: We've just had new Windows fitted, which resulted in this particular Viper GLX being disconnected... I've returned to found the Remote Keypad flashing with *******************'s across the screen, the keypad beeps on keypress, but does nothing else.  Power cycling the G2 results in the panel starting up with a long beep (until keypress) and the screen returning to flashing *******************'s...  Any ideas? So back to where you started Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Vincent Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 (edited) 4 minutes ago, al-yeti said: So back to where you started  I'm now fully operational, minus the sensor over the replaced window. I'm assuming the window fitter has screwed the cable...  Tomorrow, I'm going to reconnect 1004 to the panel, and replace the resistors and connections at the sensor end. If that causes the same issue, I'll conclude the wiring is knackered and replace with an RF sensor.    2 questions.  - Can you disable the Keypad keytone? - Is there a mode to put the panel in to avoid the sirens going off when "playing"? Edited July 25, 2017 by James Vincent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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