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antinode

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antinode last won the day on October 14

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About antinode

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  • Birthday 06/05/86

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  1. Wiring Old Bell to Enforcer Panel

    You need to connect the black and yellow coming from the bell to a 2K2 resistor. The other end of the 2K2 resistor goes into zone 1, then program zone 1 as tamper and label it as such with the description. Also, as the instructions say, your existing bell box (looks like a Gardtec/Risco XS3D) will use more power than the Enforcer is capable of supplying in alarm, so you should set the bell box to SCB mode (usually a jumper link to move over on the bell box PCB)
  2. 8 core cable internal sounder + PIR

    Run a 16 ohm speaker from the speaker output on the keypad (if you've got the LCDL type, if you haven't I would recommend as the screen is much better on these), it'll make a loud enough racket in alarm condition and as and addition, you'll get louder entry/exit tones to boot. Failing that, I had to run an internal speaker from the spare pairs on a PIR on my own system which was first fixed by the house builders, not ideal but I've never had an issue with it to be fair.
  3. Wireless zone expander problem

    Quite a bit of kit to be hanging off an Accenta...
  4. Replacement panel/keypad recommendations

    3 cores between the panel zone being split and the splitter. As I said, would be a problem swapping to an Accenta if the splitter was feeding, say, two PIRs. Obviously not an issue with a decent panel. Not a big fan of the 9651, but someone mentioned the Euromini (totally forgot), which is great and gives you 10 zones.
  5. Replacement panel/keypad recommendations

    The Abacus was a good, reliable system for its time. The Accenta has always been somewhere near the bottom end of the market, although it's reliable enough. I would look at the Galaxy G2-20, 12 zones onboard, easy to use. If you buy contacts and PAs with built in resistors it would be a straightforward swap (your Pyronix detectors will already have them built in, just fit the relevant jumper links and alter the wiring slightly) Don't forget a new 7ah battery. Out of interest, where did you put the splitters with the Abacus system? If they're near the panel, it's easy enough to make the existing cabling work with most systems, but if you've put them "in the field" so to speak and only run a 6 core to the splitter, you may not have enough cores for the system to work properly with something like the Accenta.
  6. Alarm Fault Code

    Accenta ABI supported EOL, there's also the iD Accenta that catches a few people out, as it seems...
  7. Chubb px 500

    The ends of the 8K2's are shorted together when the circuit is clear, so it's 4K1 when clear going to 8K2 when active. Throw in another 8K2 across the mask contacts for 16K4 in mask and 12K3 in fault. Used to install a few before they brought out a DT with the built in resistors, an absolute nightmare if I remember. Used to come across quite a lot of detectors badly wired by others, leading to the two ends of the 8K2 resistors shorting out, so the detector could never signal an alarm back to the panel.
  8. Sounds like a U.S. setup, it may be best to consult someone in your locality with regards to regulations etc, as this is primarily a UK site and we work to different standards and with differing equipment.
  9. eurosec cpx

    Off the top of my head, I seem to remember you need to have a user code on the system set up to control the area that the keyswitch needs to set/unset (even if areas aren't used on the system!) Aslong as the above is done and the zone is programmed as normal or biased keyswitch (I think with the Monitor zone type), it should work OK. I've got one setup, I'll call in tomorrow and double check how it's programmed.
  10. HD & IP

    HD is the resolution of the picture (very generalised summation, but basically speaking) IP and coax are just the transmission mediums for HD (and non-HD) pictures. Not all IP is HD
  11. Reconnect Existing CCTV Cameras

    Have they left the cameras? If so, it would be worth checking their power requirements and video output before you purchase a power supply and DVR. Chances are they're standard analogue 12vdc cams, although 24vac cameras are quite common, as well as HD-SDI, TVI and CVI. If you need a 12vdc PSU, this would do the job fine: https://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/genie-2-amp-12v-dc-switch-mode-power-supply-p-3094.html
  12. Loop In/loop Out Panel

    Adaptable box and some male BNC throughs would be my first thought?
  13. The Texecom Premier seems to be a good choice with the DIY'ers, and popular with pro installers too. I've only ever taken them over, but they do seem to have a lot of good features and are easy to work on, although if you're not used to alarm programming, you may struggle with some of the terminology/programming options. Personally, I'd go for the Elite 48. You'll also need an expander as you're up to 9 zones (the panel only has 8), but you could wire one of the door contacts to a nearby keypad's onboard zones to get around this. I'd be looking to totally recable where possible if the wiring is under the carpets/damaged, using standard 8 core alarm cable. Get it as far away from the mains as you can.
  14. Good Evening Community

    Good evening
  15. I'd put money on it being the battery. Output voltage is only one consideration, it's when the battery is placed under load that it will prove itself. Try checking the battery voltage with it connected to the panel and the mains disconnected. If it's still reading above 12 volts, it's the panel although I'm fairly sure after 4 years, the battery has had it and the voltage will plummet.
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