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Showing content with the highest reputation since 20/08/17 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Oh dear "Jock McTightSporran" is asking a forum which mainly populated alarm monkeys why their employed. What goes wrong with your simple house alarm? Well there will be at least 2 battery's which don't last forever, reed contacts which will eventually fail (open or closed) or cause false alarm.... same for the relays within powered sensors Checking a bells only system annually as per BS/EN ensures they work correctly (think MOT) if you where a paying subscriber you could have your system in working order rather spending your spare time hunting down a manual for the old tat of an alarm on your wall. However you pays your money & make your choice, Power down the "skip fodder" of an alarm system & restart it on mains power only, with all tamper & lids close it made take you code If not buy something like a veritas 8 & new battery & have a bash at sort it Or find a local alarm co. (proper ones might only do the work if their maintaining it) & ask for cost of them updating the system
  2. 3 points
    Make sure you keep an eye out for software updates as they are rolled out for all platforms. https://www.armis.com/blueborne/
  3. 2 points
    will ebay chinky tat suit your needs ? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-360-PIR-Infrared-Motion-Movement-Sensor-Detector-Switch-Mounted-Ceiling-/352165250609?hash=item51feaf4631:g:KeIAAOSwgKpZulPM
  4. 2 points
  5. 2 points
    Not even going to increase their clickage, if the DM said good morning I'd look outside to check, shitrag.
  6. 2 points
    it will be fine without the battery connected that is most electrician installs
  7. 2 points
  8. 2 points
    Normally the bin... However, if you would like to locate them somewhere other than your local recycling centre; they fit in the screw holes after you put the lid on.
  9. 2 points
    When he quoted him for cableties rather than conduit you know what they want to pay for.......
  10. 2 points
    You're fine, we only get just over a million hits a month at TSI
  11. 1 point
    How many do you need What environment are they being located in What are they connecting to Why not surface mount
  12. 1 point
    I would suspect the sensors you mention (CP Electronics / Danlers etc) all have photocell and time adjustment on detection with NC / NO contacts where for instance the Texecom AM360 QD has a NC contact (No time adjustment on detection unless you start integrating a timer into your final circuit)
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    I used to work for a void property security company making £800 a week working away in Northern Ireland. Jacked it in after my daughter turned 2 as there was to much threats etc entering different areas and the things I saw were brutal. Its funny how your life changes when you have a family.
  15. 1 point
    i was taking home 600 a week early 90's doing marine great money then,great money now tbh sick of working away ended up in this game working the clock to make the same,now im older and wiser (cough) i use norms wisdom (pardon the pun) life work balance is more important than the bank balance
  16. 1 point
    my mates son was earning that as a spark,he was in afgan tho ,lived on site no alcohol no internet and you risked your life every day,worth the risk? not for me
  17. 1 point
    It's all about the hourly rate, anyone can earn 80k (if the works there) but they still may be on a 'meh' hourly rate.
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    hand - you "plat it" then pull the pair apart & it tightens it drill - a small length of coat hanger bent into a hook,
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    Or you could do it the quick way...
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    OK boys and girls, we have done some testing and have found the following:- There is an issue with keypads when they are right on the border of hopping, but don't. So in the tests we have done response and speed is good when the keypad is at 40% signal strength or better, below that it will slow down and as the signal degrades, get to a state mentioned in this thread, slow, possible missing text on the screen etc... and then eventually hop, if there are devices available The point at which hopping occurs can in some cases, with one hop, actually make the keypad respond as if its a direct connection, this is when the keypad signal to the device its hopping through is high, like 80-90% plus, and the devices signal back to the receiver is high, again 80-90% plus, its almost impossible to tell the difference. If below these numbers speed is affected, as expected, as advised we do say that hopping keypads should really only be treated as arming stations. When the keypad signal goes below 40% it will start slowing down, the weaker it gets, the slower it gets. So I guess the question is what are we going to do about it? The R&D team are involved and discussing what we could do to improve the issues It could be as simple as forcing the keypads to hop earlier than other devices, but this is my simplistic non engineering view(there is absolutely no need to change any other devices they do not have the characteristics that will exhibit these issues So the advice i can give now is, regardless direct connection, 40% or better exhibits similar characteristics as a wired keypad. I will update this thread again when I know more, and can only offer our apologies for the issues caused and the fact that this is not documented. An addendum will probably issued and the manual, will be updated accordingly.
  24. 1 point
    guess / insult I'm not seen it, but unless its f'kin massive a true bungalow is pish easy
  25. 1 point
    The serial number is different if you switch the device from V2 to Alpha and vice versa.
  26. 1 point
    nah, the scamming bastard is selling dehydrated water on ebay....
  27. 1 point
    lol, obviously. You selling stop tap covers cos its similar
  28. 1 point
    I hear Orisec are OK...
  29. 1 point
    This was working before you changed your code, then stopped working after you changed your code? I would get an engineer out based on the assumptions already made, as I don't feel you should be tinkering?
  30. 1 point
    Yeah foscam is cheap and cheerful sold expensive by some bashers it really is junk
  31. 1 point
  32. 1 point
    Might not be what your looking for but Why are you not scrapping the panel aswell?
  33. 1 point
    As u already have the com2400 then u can add the speech module to it (goes inside the panel) which allows it to ring you instead of only texting. The speech dialler and speech and text dialler is a standalone product that looks like a keypad which can ring and text you when it receives an input from any make of alarm. Old product tried and tested but nothing special. If you want a second backup communicator (which rules out speech dialler as it's connected to the same phone line as the com2400 as well as ip) then get the speech module for phone calls and also a Comgsm that will give you two way texting over gsm with a pay as you go simcard.
  34. 1 point
    I reckon it will be fine for twenty years until one morning when it doesnt start, think of the money you'll save
  35. 1 point
    'Until', that's the operative word chap
  36. 1 point
    Topic locked - please don't bump ancient topics OP when you have your own recent one still open. Anyone who wants to help please continue to post here >>> TSI Topic - Challenger 5
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
    Yeah if I have to remove them, I always put them back.
  39. 1 point
    IMHO the school was a f'kin zoo, the pupils would have been better going straight to the workplace (or prison) Apart from the alarm which I think was GSCE.... CDT memories a) Teacher did'nt like the smell of old spice as it reminded thing of someone dieing from cancer - que 30 kids bathing in old spice aftershave. b) I nailed a load of text books to the work benches, open cover wack in a big clout nail though the book, close cover. I must have done 3 or 4 terms of that's all I can recall
  40. 1 point
    Same here was always matey with the CDT teachers (and also thankfully not in a pre-edit Norm way) and allowed in 'as long as you leave it tidy' whenever he or the technician was in. The tech was one of those educated but dropout herbal cigarette smoking types who really didn't give a toss what I got up to with mains electricity!
  41. 1 point
    For my O level I made a weightlifting type bench, spring loaded leg contraption, it was blooming ace and in those days I was allowed into the DT room alone during lunch and after school to weld etc.
  42. 1 point
    ill have a look, i might have some old f130's etc. good to see a keen mind
  43. 1 point
    So linked sound option Generally +12v to +12v Gnd to an output that switches from 12v to ground, bell output or another pgm
  44. 1 point
    Wow, thanks for the replies guys I will look on his site, I actually have been using and learning with my Arduino Microcontroller, in this picture, it is connected to my Accenta G3, I made a Mission Impossible stile beam break detector hooked up to Zone 4, so an instant alarm when set. I will have a go at some projects from his site tomorrow before I take on the Logic 4, which was probably designed by an engineer with a lot more experience than 16 year old me I have built sme things, I etch my own PCBs as well, to put my very small projects on. I'll also add a picture of a PCB that I have made, it was designed to be an LED version of a Airbus A320 wing strobe Ah, the microprocessor stuff does sound much more complex, I'll stick to the basic ICs for now And let my knowledge rise first. I actually have a kit similar to the Tandy one, it was my Dad's he gave to me at quite a young age, before I started messing on with proper alarm panels. I have an Arduino microcontroller, which I made wok with my ADE simple set reader, which as fun, thy worked together really well, making the Arduino control a siren, depending on the relay state of the set reader. I know, I would be quite interested actually o see how the Logic 4 and Optimas were designed, the PCBs have quite clearly been designed by a computer program, although I do not know of any PCB design programs existing back in the early 1990s. I have just ordered 50 555 timer chips, so hopefully I'll be able to design something good with them, and other chips I have. I guess they were designed with simplicity for the user in mind, that's what I like about ADE, nothing is ever too hard to do on their panels. How much was the Logic 4 at the time?
  45. 1 point
    Agree with SWB. Learn basic electronics. Transistors, gates, flip flops, RC timers, Etc. There used to be project kits with many circuit possibilities years ago - they were basic, but very good. The Tandy 200 in 1 was my dream x-mas present when I was 9 y/o. I don't think I ever played with any toy more than that. After that, skip the alarm circuit and jump to Raspberry Pi I/O. You'll find it easier to learn/modify programming rather than the example alarm circuits, but you still need the grounding (no pun intended) in basic electronics.
  46. 1 point
    before you start with PICs you need to look at the basics. http://www.zen22142.zen.co.uk/ronj/mba.html
  47. 1 point
    Yeah I soon learnt to bin the Warehouse gear
  48. 1 point
    Are there gutter downpipes near usable camera locations? Run some ali tube or colour coded placcy conduit behind the downpipe. If the homeowner isnt too fussy you could cabletie external cat5 behind the downpipe but 20mm conduit looks better. nvr in the loft, wireless mouse, technomate 1080p modulator and your golden.
  49. 1 point
    I think its a stripped back version of the C+K Active 5 , sold through Wickes in the 1990's. Try user code 1234.
  50. 1 point
    So basically the rkp, dialler, don't use eol they have there own connections as he pointed out , and swb is saying that because the manual will point this all out to you