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DIY Alarm Servicing Page 2: !. Do not attempt to proceed unless your 100% confident in your abilities to complete any of the following tests, If you are at all unsure please seek out a professional .! Voltage Checks: We are going to check that your control panel is supplying the correct voltages to its Battery, Bellbox and Detectors. So you'll need to have your Multimeter ready, and set to measure DC Voltage in a range that can measure from 10 volts and up to 20 volts. If your not sure how to use your Multimeter or are in any doubt as to whether the leads are in their correct locations then proceed no further as you may damage your panel or blow fuses etc........ Not all panel manufacturer's use the same terminologies so ill be using the most common as this will apply to the majority of panels.
We are looking for all our voltage results to be within the range of 13 Volts to 14 Volts, and ideally not be at extremes from each other, by that I mean they should all be fairly close to each other, here's the results from my control panel just for a comparison purpose:
As you can see, there is not a lot of difference between any of the results I achieved, with differences being only a few 10th`s of a volt. The lowest recorded voltage was 13.78 volts and the highest was 13.82 Volts. Checking the Backup Battery:
Technically they are "Sealed Lead Acid" batteries, The cases are made from a non-conductive material usually consisting of ABS plastic, styrene or polypropylene. The "Gel" battery is a modification of the standard lead acid car battery. A gelling agent (often silica) is added to the electrolyte to reduce movement inside the battery case. Gel-Cell batteries are considered non-spill able, and can usually be used in any position except upside-down. They usually have a one-way valve acting as a vent for excess gases to escape. Gel-Cells must be charged at a lower current to prevent excess gas from damaging the cells. Fast charging them may permanently damage a Gel Battery. Connection points for power are usually the push on spade type of connectors on the lower amperage batteries, or screw and nut type of connection points for higher amperage batteries. Battery Capacity, is expressed in ampere-hour's (AH) and in the case of Gel batteries this is the total amount of energy available from a fully charged battery over a 20 hour period. So a fully charged 7AH battery should supply 350mA FOR 20 hours, but if we increase that rate to 700mA it will doubtfully last 8 hours, when you would probably have expected it to last for 10 Hours. More info on Batteries. Checking Standby Capacity: To comply with British Standards your Alarm System should be able to function normally for periods of at least 8 hours in the event of a mains supply Power failure, so we will need to check the current draw of your control panel when in an un-set/standby condition.
The chart above should give you a rough idea as to whether your battery will give the recommended 8 Hours standby rate, the resulting figures are worked out with a 10% deduction to the time results as the batteries are never operating in optimum conditions, remember that these figures are for batteries less than 1 year old, after 4 years of age you could deduct 20% or more from these figures.
From the chart above I can determine that with my standby current being 315mA and my backup battery being rated at 7.0AH, that my battery should power my alarm system for between 18 and 21 hours in the event of a mains power failure providing that my battery is holding its charge. All we have found out so far is your Control panel voltages, and determined the Standby current consumption of your control panel, we still have not determined how your battery will stand up to a load test. Normally as a Service Engineer I would drop test (that doesn't mean drop it on the floor) your battery with a calibrated load recording the voltage start value and the voltage value at the end of the test to indicate to me how well it is holding its charge. Obviously you wont have a calibrated drop tester so the only other way to do this would be a real test with your alarm system as the load. The "make do" Drop Test: You'll need to set your multi-meter to measure DC volts again (making sure that the leads have been changed back to the voltage terminals on your Multimeter), in a range that will show up to 20VDC, make sure your battery is connected to the battery leads in your control panel and again remove the mains supply by removing the fuse from the fused spur. Wait a couple of minutes for the battery voltage to stabilize and then record the voltage across the terminals of the battery and note the result, it should be about 12.8 Volts, leave the panel in standby mode for 20 minutes then return and measure the voltage across the battery terminals again, it should have dropped slightly but not much, if the voltage is below 11.5VDC I'd say stop the test now and re-apply the mains, and get your battery replaced ASAP, If your still showing above 12 Volts then leave for another 20 minutes and re-check the battery voltage, again if below 11.5VDC re-apply the mains and change the battery ASAP, On returning after your 3rd 20 minute break again check the battery voltage and record the result, now your system has been powered by just the battery for 1 hour re-apply the mains and replace the control panel lid, leave engineers mode and ensure your alarm system is back to an Unset condition and shows no faults. Your testing is now completed. "It is always a good idea after servicing your system to quickly make sure it sets and un-sets ok, so please re-do step 1 ensuring there are no faults" Well that's all folks, I hope you were able to follow these guidelines ok, and that they we not to hard to understand, if they were then let me know. If you have followed and carried out all these checks then your system should be ok for another year. Well done, you have just serviced your system to the best of your abilities. |
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